Why aren't these standard equipment by now?

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First and foremost I'm not posting this in the Ford newsgroup in order to discriminate against any particular make for shortcomings as all Brands of Autos suffer from the same problems that I'm going to bring
forward.
#1 Oversized transmission cooler with low pressure bypass valve for driving in hot weather, towing, hilly terrain, etc.
#2 Magnetic filters for transmission, motor, radiator, and power steering fluids.
#3 Bypass oil filters used in conjunction with the already standard flow through filters. FILTERS NEED TO BE LOCATED IN A CONVENIENT LOCATION FOR EASY REPLACEMENT!!!
#4 Oil coolers for cars with and without superchargers or turbochargers. (After all, when the motor oil gets too hot it will break down and this will wear out the engine rapidly.)
#5 External spin-on transmission filters instead of internal for easier replacement.
#6 Oil sump pans with louvers/air veins on them for increased oil cooling.
#7 Oil change reminders on dashboard that uses a computer w/sensors in order to decide once oil is contaminated enough to warrant changing - it also would need a 500 mile warning ahead of time in case your on a long distance trip. (GM already uses something like this on all of it's cars and it has saved millions of tons of crude oil.)
#8 Low Oil Level warning lights. The Low oil pressure warning lights simply are not enough. By the time pressure drops too low it's already too late and engine damage has already occurred in some shape or form. (Most motorists are stupid and never check their oil level.)
#9 An extra electric cooling fan pointed at the alternator in case it's tucked away in such a way that it doesn't get enough cool air flow inside the engine bay.
#10 FOG LIGHTS STANDARD
#11 Purple warning/hazard lights that flash just like the Hazard/Safety lights that are already standard. These purple warning lights warn other motorists that YOU or ME as a driver is somewhat compromised but are still needing to continue driving only with extra caution. EXAMPLE: Sudden downpour and I or YOU happen to have tires that are worn or not suited for wet season. Or wiper blades happen to be old and don't clear the windshield, OR defroster is not working properly all of a sudden. Or let's say we I or YOU had a flat tire and so now were driving on a donut sized tire on a major interstate in Nevada where big rigs want to go 85+MPH while ME or YOU are forced to go 55 - 60 mph because the donut spares are only rated for 55 MPH tops, going faster MAY damage the cars differential. (These purple warning lights show other drivers that the compromised driver is being extra careful and so if they are driving a little slow than the lights add to the needed communication for other motorists to go around when it's safe to do so.) On the road, communication is the key for safety! We need more warning lights than the standard safety flashers, it couldn't be more obvious.
#12 FULL SIZE SPARE TIRE W/a warning dash light that goes off if the spare tire for some reason becomes under inflated while it's stored under the trunk bed.
#13 Warning dash light for under inflated tires. I have seen too many motorists on the road driving around on under inflated tires. 5 times out of 10 the tires explode while I'm driving close enough to witness it happen - just like watching a horror movie. On light truck on up, tires explode when under inflated. On passenger cars they are less likely to fail but they do have thread separation which is still dangerous only not as bad as a blowout.
#14 The option for motorist that know how to properly maintain their cars in the first place to be able to buy their cars new without all the idiot lights in order to not have to pay as much as the motorists that don't know the difference between a cam shaft and a drive shaft. Motorists need to be able to pass a maintenance competency test and if they do poorly on it, they need to drive the "dummy" car by law or face a stiff penalty. This should eliminate 90% of all the broken down cars on the road that cause more accidents, bottle necks, and traffic fatalities & injuries.
#15 Foldable side mirrors mandatory. Motorists should be required to fold in their mirrors (both of them) when parallel parked. This protects bicyclists on the road and pedestrians on the sidewalk. This also helps improve auto traffic safety because side view mirrors are one less obstacle on the road to worry about.
#16 All vehicles need to be required to have under armor. In other words, steel plates/shields need to be installed beneath the undercarriage stock by the factory. This will protect the fuel line, fuel filter, and gas tank(s) from rupturing from road debris and other road hazards. Vehicles made with gas tanks in unsafe locations by the manufacturer should be banned from being sold in North America. Gas tanks need to be made as "fuel cells" like the ones used on racetracks, strong, sturdy, and impenetrable. The under armor will also protect the brake lines from rupturing from road debris further protecting against failed brakes and sudden loss of brake pressure.
#17 Front and Rear sway bars mandatory
#18 Rollover bar(s) mandatory on all cars integrated into the roof and body/chassis so in most cars it wouldn't be obvious
#19 Disc brakes front and BACK mandatory
#20 Engine block/oil heaters mandatory with both plug in and timer that runs off of the cars SECOND battery for the purpose. This would save fuel as the engine would already be preheated and this would increase longevity.
And #21 Electric oil pump on timer to lubricate engine before start up each morning. Used in conjunction with engine block heater.
If all of the above could be done in a reasonable amount of time traffic fatalities would go down 80% guaranteed. Cars would have an average life span of 30 years instead of 10 years as they are now.
It's just like buying more expensive furniture instead of the cheap stuff the breaks easily. With the more expensive furniture you can keep them longer and they stay nice longer. In the long term you save lots of money despite the initial higher cost.
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a. Crossing guards on every street corner/intersection without a traffic light
b. Safety guards on steak and paring knives
c. Convert residential power supplies from 120 volt ac to 48 volt dc to eliminate electrocution
d. reinstate prohibition - now that lawyers and legislators have convinced everyone that, once you have a few drinks, you're not responsible for your actions or judgement.. the only step left.
e Raise all children to the age of 18 in a clear mylar bubble lined with bubble wrap
e 1 Eliminate all unsupervised play or movement.. especially NEVER let a child fall without making a big deal of it! ( Perhaps someone can research bicycle head injury frequency from the 1950's compared to the present when fewer kids actually ride bikes and those who do usually wear helmets... you might be surprised)
I could go on...
--
- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -

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On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 07:18:58 GMT, Backyard Mechanic

I retired in Feb. after 40 years as an electrician in a GM plant. They were starting to implement new "safety" rules for electricians just before I left.
Anything over 24 V AC or DC, rope off the area at a distance of 5 feet from where you're working. Wear the MANDATORY flame-proof coveralls. Wear triple gloves; cotton, rubber, leather. Hard hats required. Any electrical panel with a service of 400 amps or greater, wear the "high risk" suit, which looks like the ones firemen wear to enter burning aircraft, complete with hood.. This is power on or off, BTW.
1. The chemicals used to treat the coveralls caused skin rashes on 25% of the people wearing them. These chemicals were found to increase the risk of kidney and liver problems, per the MSDS.
2. Ever try to put a #16 wire on a small terminal and tighten the screw wearing 3 pairs of gloves? I couldn't even hold the screwdriver.
3. All this, but no face shield mandated.
4. The 400 amp suit weighs about 35 pounds. The suit and hood are not ventilated, so you begin to suffocate in about 2 minutes.
Big Brother is alive & well.
PS - I drive a Ford.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Retired Shop Rat: 14,647 days in a GM plant. Now I can do what I enjoy: Large Format Photography - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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wrote:

Damn nice of you to bite the hand that fed you for 40 years, YDB.
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On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 13:09:23 -0700, "Scott" <homealone.com> wrote:

When GM makes a four door rear wheel drive full sized car, I'll consider buying one. Until then.......
65 Chevelle SS - gas tank straps rusted through in 67 & tank fell off. Floor pan rusted through in 67 also. Frame rusted through in 71, junked it. 64 Buick Special - frame rusted through in 79, junked it. Overall, not a bad car. 78 Caprice Wagon - Totally worthless Quadrajunk 4 bbl. constantly needed rebuilding. Instrument panel bulbs burned out; to replace, disassemble dash from the front until you find the bulbs. Had to replace rear springs in 80 - they collapsed - no heavy loads in the car. Squeaks, rattles & rust. Junked in 85. 85 Monte - The worst car I ever drove in the snow. Totalled in 88. Catalytic converter plugged in early 88. 87 Park Avenue - In 6 years, I had to put $5600.00 into it - Engine & suspension mostly. 93 T-Bird - Decided to try a Ford. No problems at all until totalled in 03 with 155,000 on it. 02 Town Car - Love it. 50,000 mile warranty, dealer service dept. excellent. Two minor concerns fixed under warranty; EGR sensor and coil on cyl #5. Warranty on sensor extended additional 2 years. Averaged 25.2 mpg on a 3,000 mile trip. Averaged 20.4 mpg for 2004.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Retired Shop Rat: 14,647 days in a GM plant. Now I can do what I enjoy: Large Format Photography - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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Far as I can tell, someone wrote:

Have you considered running for the office of dictator?
Although many of your ideas are good, this one above blows your whole concept out of the water.
You want to add a dozen mandatory items to cars, with no thought as to how much a new car would cost, yet you want to (optionally) eliminate a handful of idiot lights to save you money. Hmm... Then you have to set up nation-wide testing centers for idiot light testing.How much would it cost to set up a new center at every DMV? Don't know? Don't care?
Your add-ons would no doubt add several thousand dollars to the price of a new car.
A mandatory engine block heater with it's own battery? We really need that here in the south... or hadn't you thought of that? Ooops!
I recently spent $175.00 for a repair. One of my exhaust sensors broke somewhere deep inside, I can only guess where. Nothing had made my car unsafe, just a sensor was bad so the idiot light came on, so I had to get it fixed. Oh well, it's only money.
It's interesting that you personal guarantee an 80% decrease in traffic fatalities. Was your study done on a state or nation-wide basis? What vehicles have you altered and tested to prove your points? Or was it that guy with the crystal ball on the Wizard of Oz who told you? Have you considered that 68.723% of all accidents are caused by flat out stupidity? (Yeah, I made that number up too.)
Like I said, you have a lot of good ideas, but they are not new ideas.
Next, you can write a list of twelve hundred mandatory things to be built into houses to make them safer, like mandatory handles inside all bath-tubs, and mandatory motion sensors to turn lights on so people won't stub their toes, and mandatory sensors in the fridge to tell you when the light bulb is out.
How about a mandatory beeper to tell you when the milk is sour?
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...a whole lotta stuff.

Where do you go for service? Back to the dealer? Sorry, he went out of business 29 years ago. Everybody bought the "long-life" cars that never broke, so he had to fire all the mechanics. The cars were so expensive because of all the fancy stuff they were made to install that nobody could afford to buy another, so he fired all the salesmen. Sales came to a standstill, and they didn't order more cars, so the manufacturers fired all the assembly workers and closed down. Thanks. You just put an entire industry out of work.
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MasterBlaster opined in wrote

Besides which....
CARS LAST MUCH LONGER NOW THAN THEY DID JUST 20 YEARS AGO, and it''s longer than ten years if any maintenance was done on them
--
- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -

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Backyard Mechanic wrote:

Yes and no. Old cars were a "constant strain of problems" from new. New cars are wonderfully reliable for xxx miles, then turn into a cube, or cost someone a FORTUNE to keep driving...
The way I see it, either I pay a carnote to Autozone-and-the-like, or the bank.. *Shrug*
JS
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I used to buy "worn out" cars at 5 years of age and had to scrap them before 10. In 1969, a 1959 car was ANCIENT, and a real money-pit - think valve jobs, ring jobs, transmissions, worn out suspension,replacing exhausts every year, rusted out frames - etc etc etc, ad infinitum. And if you managed to nurse it to 100,000 miles, you were doing VERY well. Today I buy 9 year old vehicles that look and run like they just came off the show-room floor - and I drive then until they have 200,000 miles on them. Then I sell them to smeone else!!! With 300,000 Km my current 11 year old vehicle still has the original exhaust system on it. A replacement alternator, for instance, today costs an average of 1 - 2 hours wages (OK, for some 4 hours). In 1969 it was more likely to cost an entire day's wages.
My total cost of ownership for my last car (replaced last year) for 140,000 KM over 10 years of driving (I bought it 6 years old at 100,000 KM for $6000 and sold it with 240,000 last year for $2400) including all repairs and regular maintenance - not including oil changes, gas, and insurance, was less than $8000.00. Roughly $750 per year is NOT expensive driving.In ANYBODY's books.( and that was just a crappy Chrysler)
My last Van was a Ford. Bought it 2 years old, sold it 10 years later with 242,000 Km on it. Including body repairs (rust), and ALL mainteneance/repairs except oil changes, and not including fuel and insurance, that vehicle cost me roughly $4000 in repairs, and about $10,000 in"depreciation". I bought it for about $14,000 and sold it for $4000. For $1400 per year you sure can't own a NEW van - and I towed a cabin trailer across north america with it, and used it for work every day. And it was just a crappy old Aerostar.
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Are you comparing the wages of the same job, or your wages? Because if you had a McJob in 1969, it may cost an entire day's wages, while today if you're a professional of some sort it would cost an hour or two's wages.
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Same job then as now. I made less than $5 per hour. A cheap rebuilt alternator for my '63 Valiant was about $45. At that same job today I would be making closer to $30 per hour, and I can buy a cheap rebuilt alternator for a '98 Neon for $60 or $65. For the old Valiant, I can pick one up for less than $35. In 1969 the Valiant was 6 years old. The Neon is 7, so we are talking apples to apples.
Yes, I can pay a lot more for a good rebuilt alternator, but back in '69 I could too.
Actually, in '69 I made a lot less than $5 per hour (like $1.15) - a licenced man made that, and I was an apprentice. By '73 I made that. And I was driving a '69 Dart. Parts prices were about the same.
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I love it! A car for lazy, stupid people. "Here's your sign...."
snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

(Big Snip)

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As far as I know they base it on odometer reading / engine run time, not any fancy sensors. And if they had any fancy sensors, that's something else to break.
As far as saving oil, people could go for longer intervals. I've been going with 10K km changes instead of 5k, with no problems. If people just learn to monitor their oil, it won't be a problem.

I think in addition to pressure, they also reported low level, when it's critically low. Either way, more nanny state BS to break. Dip stick works fine for me, what's to say they would pay attention to the idiot light? Most don't understand that the oil light is very critical in nature.

The engine bay is still hot. Point as many fans as you want, it's still hot in there, why not redesign the compartment to run cooler?

Fuck, no! Many OEM & aftermarket fog lights are improperly aimed, blinding other drivers, without providing any additional benefit. People use them even when it isn't foggy. I don't use the ones that came with my car because they are USELESS.
If you are worried about lighting, why not change lighting standards that matter? European lighting standards are superior in almost everyway, with superior headlight, and tail lights using amber turn signals, removing the confusing red signals found in North America. Fog lights are inconsequential in comparison.

Purple magical warning lights? Why not add more confusing colors into the mess. And these lights will magically know when to illuminate?

More nanny state BS. I have a cheap tire gauge, and a compressor that plugs into the cig lighter. Much cheaper than a nanny state sytem.

Nanny state BS. My $5 tire gauge does just fine.

Why not require people to be competent in order to drive, rather than all this nanny state BS. Driver's tests should be magnitudes better.

Back breaks don't matter. The vast majority of breaking is done by the front wheels. I can yank up on my parking brake, locking the rear drums. Obviously they are sufficent. The only time you need rear discs is for performance driving. Normal driving != performance driving. Unless you go around doing panic stops every 30 seconds, you shouldn't have a problem. You can say they are easier to maintain, sure, but rear discs shouldn't be mandatory. I would start worrying about the quality of front discs first. Many are undersized.

Come to Canada and you will find every car of domestic make (GM, Ford, Chrysler) come with block heaters. This doesn't mean everyone uses them, even if they should. And there is no way you could run one off a battery. At -40, batteries barely produce enough juice to start the engine. No way you could run a 300W heater for 2 hours off one.
All though I'd like in addition to a frost plug heater, the factory standard ones had a battery heater. But these features would be useless in southren US.

Why not tie it into the ignition switch like the fuel pump? Turn the car to "ON" before starting, fuel/oil pump go, then turn to "START" a second later.

Block heater will reduce fatalities? How about instead of nanny state stuff, you have driver's tests that actually test drivers? Drivers are the fault of almost all fatalities.

So than buy a car with all this shit, pay $20 000 more, and think it really matters.
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Some of them count things like engine revolutions or fuel consumption or something like that, with penalty factors for cold or overheating engines.
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Timothy J. Lee
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Your car wouldn't last any longer. Your wife would still ignore the idiot light.
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Someone who obviously has little idea how the world works wants to throw a wrench in there and watch the dominoes begin to fall.
On 15 Apr 2005 23:22:07 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Hey! Spikey Likes IT! 1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Seem to remember an '84 Lincoln Mark VI I used to own had this feature. I know 'cause it came on once after it started to leak oil. No other car I've owned had this feature that I know of.
JP
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JP White
mailto: snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net
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JP White wrote:

My built-for-delivery-in-Mexico 1992 Explorer XLT w/ 4.0+A4LD has a "low oil" sensor...
I'm almost certain the Hyundai 2.7's outside do feature sensors. The 1999 Dodge 1500 w/ 5.2 (318) does not.
JS
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I believe older BMWs have a low oil sensor.
JP White wrote:

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