Why no help?

Am I asking my questions in a way that offends everyone? I have posted about

2 different issues lately, but have gotten no response. I have tried to be concise in my wording. Maybe the questions are just stupid. Can I get some insight as to maybe what I'm doing wrong? Thanks.
Reply to
JWald
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wish I could help, whats the question ? (if I say nothing I don't know the answer)

Reply to
gnu / linux

Question #1

- Jul 26, 7:39 am

- Hello,

- My rear AC fan stopped working the other day while in use. When I select

- either the rear control or manual control positions I can hear and feel the

- the #6 relay tick. I swapped out another relay with no results. Fuse looked

- good as well. The actual rear control fan controller has no effect either.

- Any ideas? Thanks.

I read it, but I had no ideas, so I didn't answer.

Question #2

- Aug 4, 7:07 pm

- My Windstar is giving me fits. It recently began to need a jump at about

- every start. I put a meter on the battery when not running and got a

- reading of about 10.xx volts. It is the original battery so I replaced it.

- The newly installed battery reads about 12.5v not running. When checking

- with the engine running I get about 12.02v. I expected the running read

- out to be in the 14.v + range. It is with my other vehicles. I ran the

- system check in the message center, and it says *charging system ok*. It

- seems to me that something is draining the battery. Short of removing the

- alternator for diagnostics in a shop, is there anything I can do to check

- it here? Any ideas what might be going on? Thanks.

I read it, "Steven N." already answered. I agreed with his agreeing that the voltage should be well above 12.02v when running, and to use a good meter. To avoid cluttering up the Internet any more than it already is, I didn't answer.

Reply to
MasterBlaster

Replace the alternator with a new or rebuilt one. one of the diodes has failed.

Steve R.

Reply to
Steve R.

I had a couple ideas, but wasn't exactly sure, so I thought you'd probably be angry if I told you to replace something and it turned out that I was wrong. It's hard to diagnose something when we don't have the vehicle right in front of us. Sometimes you get exactly what you pay for.

Reply to
Kruse

Electrical diagnosis can be extremely hard on many licenced techs... it doesn't get easier for DIYers...

Sidebar... rest assured, if you have offended anyone, the last thing they will do is remain silent.

For your electrical issues on the Windstar - be aware that this vehicle is "top heavy" with electronic control modules. Many times you are not going anywhere without a very talented scan tool.. Also, be aware that many modules will "shut down" when battery voltage reaches a predetermined (preprogrammed) value. You desparately need to repair the charging system issue before attempting any other electrical system repairs.

FWIW, one cannot tell if the concern with the alternator is a "blown diode" without specifically testing the rectifier bridge (this can be done with the engine running using something as simple as a DMM on the AC volts scale). An open field can often be the root cause... but a bad alternator is still a bad alternator....

The alternator on your van is controlled by the PCM.... Now... the most likely cause is the alternator itself.... But without some proper diagnosis, this isn't much different from shooting craps... Check fuses F1.13 (10A) and F1.20 (15A) in the BJB (battery junction box).

Also, check the belt tensioner - I have seen these bind allowing the engine accessories to slip.

Your AC concern... with the charging system concern out of the way, reassess the AC blower. Swapping relays on a Ford can be a fools errand... Many times we find that relays have been "piggybacked"... Swapping a relay can move a bad relay to a different part of the same circuit.... (Hold still..... got your foot in the crosshairs? - good, now squeeze gently).

Lastly... the post that generated these replies looks a tad whiney, doncha think?

Reply to
Jim Warman

Welll ... yeah to that side bar kinda ... however I must add that getting killfiled, ignored, deleted, silent=ed what ever is something that happens a lot to little o me.

Soooo ... on the bright side ...

there is always that as a hopeful possibility depending on what you may aspire to.

Latter on I want to be a cheer leader ...

Or maybe a President reading kiddie books.

Have those high apple pie in the sky hopes !!!

sumbuddie not kidding either

:?

Reply to
Alan Mac Farlane

You got a major brainaic thingy there Jim Warman ... nice to meet someone like you ... a rare bird I have to say.

Wonderfull write up in reply to help the DIYer on his way to making his life better ... with a little help from you.

I wanna say ... thank you for that.

Just from me. That's all.

Oh ... the favorite whine of mine is "WHERE WE GOING TO DINNER'

There are other favorite ones I have as well.

Just making fun of them ... and taking clinical note, such things come from an adult who suffered from child abuse ... and has not had the love burn through their judgement and expectation.

Making for the resentment and bitterness as you have seen in the languaging as little that is on the emotional scale.

While irksome at times ... I keep asking for more love in being kind, helpful and considerate like you do.

I don't want the irksome part, I don't even want to feel pity for them ... so I go for the high apple pie in the sky hopes in being more adventuresome ... again ... like you.

Nice to meetcha !!!

sumbuddie having a happy day

:?

Jim Warman wrote:

Reply to
Alan Mac Farlane

Jim, My post was not meant to be whiney, but I suppose it could be viewed as such. My intent was to get the kind of insightful response that you have given. When this charging issue came up I immediately suspected that perhaps the A/C blower problem might have something to do with the lack of juice coming from the alt. You confirmed my idea as valid. Thank you. I know this type of excellent information is available on this group and I want to be able to tap into it when necessary.

Reply to
JWald

Jim, The alternator was the culprit. Dead as a doornail. Replaced it and all is well. I'm now getting 14.12v to the battery with engine running. I was also hoping for the rear blower to kick in as well. Not my luck. Any ideas? I do have to say that I think this was, by far, the easiest alternator swap that I've ever done. Thanks.

Reply to
JWald

You're good with electric stuff, maybe you can weigh in on this...

92 Ford Explorer - battery will go dead in a few days. Battery was replaced (free) and alternator was replaced twice (free the second time) and it still goes dead. It's been checked a couple times for current draw when it's completely off and only draws maybe 100 milliamps. When running the voltage at the battery posts is around 13.7.

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

Usenet is dying. All the major ISP's have dropped free Usenet service.

99% of people have NO idea what Usenet is. They're too busy twittering their lives away and reading slanted blogs and forums.
Reply to
Andrew Rossmann

Replace both relays for the EEC and fuel pump. They are both located underneath the underhood distribution block. I had the identical symptoms with a 1991 Ranger, as soon as the cold weather hit, it would kill the battery almost overnight. The relays would stick, which in turn would drain the battery overnight. During the warmer seasons, there was still excessive drain on the battery, but not to the point that it would not start the truck, just start harder.

HTH Sharky

Reply to
Sharky

-Only- 100 milliamps?

Reply to
aarcuda69062

!00mA is way too much... Ford says 50mA is the limit and we normally see about 20mA after all the modules "go to sleep"... On your Ex, I would expect that the only applicable module is going to be the GEM.

Reply to
Jim Warman

I monkeyed with it again today. It was drawing 0.020 A give or take. That's the same as 20 mA isn't it? I'm to the point of doing the two relays since I can't come up with anything better and they are both the originals. I've got a battery saver on it or it would be leaving me stranded. The saver clicks off at 12.25 volts.

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

That was from memory. Measured it today and it was 0.2 amps which I believe is 20 mA.

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

I will do that since there seems to be nothing else left to try. they never seem to stick when I'm checking current draw......

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

Yes, 0.020A is the same as 20mA so, in all honesty, that shouldn't be a big deal... What about aftermarket accessories? I've come across more than one instance where temperature can trigger some sort of event and turn "something" on - One really insidious Excursion had a CodeAlarm remote start.... the PATs bypass module had been incorrectly wired and, when the mercury plunged, it would supply field current to the alternator (even with everything turned off).

HTH

Reply to
Jim Warman

Whoops, I just noticed your reply to aarcuda... double check your meter reading (is this an inline ammeter or an inductive meter, BTW)... .2A would be 200mA while .020 would be 20mA - ain't typos wonderful?

Reply to
Jim Warman

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