I monkeyed with it again today. It was drawing 0.020 A give or take.
That's the same as 20 mA isn't it? I'm to the point of doing the two
relays since I can't come up with anything better and they are both
the originals. I've got a battery saver on it or it would be leaving
me stranded. The saver clicks off at 12.25 volts.
On Sun, 09 Aug 2009 20:42:14 GMT, "Jim Warman"
Yes, 0.020A is the same as 20mA so, in all honesty, that shouldn't be a big
deal... What about aftermarket accessories? I've come across more than one
instance where temperature can trigger some sort of event and turn
"something" on - One really insidious Excursion had a CodeAlarm remote
start.... the PATs bypass module had been incorrectly wired and, when the
mercury plunged, it would supply field current to the alternator (even with
everything turned off).
Whoops, I just noticed your reply to aarcuda... double check your meter
reading (is this an inline ammeter or an inductive meter, BTW)... .2A would
be 200mA while .020 would be 20mA - ain't typos wonderful?
It has an alarm and a hard wired handsfree phone gizmo. I
disconnected both of them at one time and it still had the problem. I
must have checked the "everything off" amp level at least 4 times in
the past two years and it's never drawing anything but that 0.02 amp
(yes, that was a typo in the other post.)
Just to piss me off, my 6 month old "premium" alternator in my S-10
took a dump and I had to get that towed. It actually has some broken
parts rattling around inside. The original alternator lasted
190,000 miles, the premium rebuild only 4000.
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