Sharon. not only have I told you but others as well. The tan wire is the ground. The red is the "hot side". Look at your schematic. Follow the red wire. Notice that it goes to a dot ( that is a junction ) with other wires merging into it? keep following. It goes to the EEC relay. As I told you the EEC relay powers the fuel pump relay. If you keep following the red wire it also powers the injectors the thermactor solenoid the canister purge solenoid just to name a few items. If you take the time to look say at an injector harness you will notice it has one red wire. That is the same circuit as the red wire on the fuel pump relay and EEC power relay. It will show 12 volts when the key is in the run position, try it. So I'll say it again. Put the key in run and test the red wire. Do you have
12 volts? I'll assume yes. Put the test lead on the tan wire with the key in run, do you have 12 volts, I'll assume yes, and that is what you should see. Keep the test lead where it is at and turn the key to crank ( crank meaning you are starting the engine ) the voltage should drop to 0. I'll assume that is what is happening by your past posts and that is what you want to see. You do not have a fuel pump gauge? You need one. You will not know for sure if the pump is doing what it is supposed to do with out it. So if you put the meter on the tan wire and got 0 volts
read on..........posted 11/12/03 @ 7:22pm
"As mentioned before, the tan wire is the relay primary ground. With the relay in its socket, put a test lead in the tan wire and put the other test lead to a ground, turn the key to RUN do NOT turn the key to crank!, do you have 12 volts? Yes or no? If yes THEN turn the key to crank. Do you now have less than 12 volts, if yes what is it? If it is below 12 volts like say 1 or less, that is normal and the circuit is working correctly. If it stays 12 volts get back to me."
If you do not understand, please say so. If you do not understand please let me know what you do not understand.