Caution, that only proves the engine can run. It does not show if the injectors are ok or not.
Not a good idea. The distributor has to be timed to the engine. If that is something you want to do, have some one who is trained at your side guide you. This is not something that should be done from instructions over a news group. Plus you indicated you have very few tools, you will need some as well as a timing light.
I spent 15 years in western NY and grew up in Jersey, I currently live in Florida. I know people all over the states in service departments. Yes there are some areas that are higher than others, New Yourk city for example is very high, but the national average is about $70. I dont know anybody in AZ, so maybe it is $100, but that sounds very high.
I advice you to NOT use this "mechanic", or get any more "advise" from him.
Many years ago I owned a Fiat (that stands for "fix it again Tony"). The timing light markings did not line up correctly after a few years of use (most likely timing chain stretched a little). I learned back then how to time with my ear. Oddly enough, over the years my husband ran into a number of cars that we worked on together where the marks were off for whatever reasons (stretched chain or belt, incorrect gauge mark to begin with, or he pulled the distributor and forgot to mark it, or he was installing a new distributor). He would always get me out in the garage to "time it" with my ear. I know that a distributor has to be marked on the housing (already notched), to the distributor, to the rotor, to the gear at the end of the shaft. Yes, it is complicated, and it does not guarantee that the new distributor will line up exactly the same way, but it is doable, with simple tools (I have already marked the base and loosened the bolt to check and make sure that nothing was hanging on the distributor, no broken gears).
There is a Ford dealership in my town (the ONLY auto dealer). It is notoriously known in this area by the locals as being shoddy, overpriced, and underqualified. I have been warned by several neighbors already. The winter 'touristos' don't know any better, hence it stays in business. Sorry Thomas, not all Ford dealerships are alike.
Thanks for the 'heads up' on this, because I was considering using him to look at this car. I don't want to offend anyone here that may be a mechanic, but all of us know that there are mechanics who are born naturals, those who just never seem to learn, those who are new and still learning (on your car, charging an hourly rate), and those who are just ou-and-out scam artists. It is hard when you arrive in a town not knowing who is who. Thanks Thomas.
You now know that the relay is good and how the relay works. From the testing that you did with the relay in and out of the socket you know that the socket is BAD and the relay is good. Get the fuel pump relay to work first and then move on to any other problems that you might have.
You need to get it to the point that the relay will at the very least turn on the fuel pump when you ground the tan/lt grn wire with a test lead and the key turned to run.
The distributor is not your problem! Even if you had a problem besides the fuel pump relay you still need to get the relay to work. You are doing too many things at once. Stan
That is very true. Word of mouth is about the best for of advertisement good or bad.
That is true of any profession/occupation you can name. How many horror stories have you listened to about bad doctors? Lawyers? Home builders? Finical advisers? I'm not necessarily an advocate of taking a car to a dealership, there are a lot of very good and competent independent repair facilities. It is a lot like finding a good doctor or dentist.
Well, I guess that's what I meant about ignoring the static in the background lol.... Of course you are right, the fact that it ran didn't prove anything about the injectors. My brain must have already been in the sleep mode when I posted that. Thanks for setting the facts straight. Bob
??? A voltmeter has high resistance. The higher the better, in fact. Suppose it was 1Mohm (it's probably more than that). The maximum voltage it could be seeing is about 14V. So Ohm's Law tells us that at most there could have been 14/1000000A (14 microamps) flowing. Any semiconductor that couldn't deal with that much leakage current in any direction has no place in an automobile.
Re-read Sharon's description of *how* she connected the voltmeter to the injector plug. She didn't describe putting each test lead to each side of the circuit, she described connecting a jumper between the two terminals in the injector connector -then- connected the VOM between the jumper and a ground point. (about as unorthodox of a method of using a voltmeter as I've ever encountered) Since you're a fan of Ohms law, solve for how many amps went thru the injector driver when voltage equals 12.7 and resistance equals zero (or very near). ;-)
She may not have but it wasn't for a lack of trying. I see at one point she jumped the tan/lt green wire to power also. I've seen this kind of thing all too many times. Someone who is trying to save a buck by doing car repairs themselves winds up bringing it in 'cause they finally gave up. Now they have not only the original problem but several others caused by the work they've tried to do. Usually not a good deal for them. Bob
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