Won't Start - checked these things - ECM suspected?

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that she jumpered the two sides of the injector plug together is what "could" have caused problems. I'm not sure if the ECM would survive a direct short to power like that or not but it would be easy enough to test it. Bob
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Bob already finished the story - It was the method she used for the test. She caused a short while testing.

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I think that is a great thing to do, keep up the good work.

The average dealership door charge is about $70 not $100. Even at that, you well know your time is very valuable. The more time you spend on a problem like yours the less time you have for the websites and duties that comes with your organization. At that point time is money. I am a trained "Ford" mechanic and would do what I was walking you through. We do not diagnose by crystal ball. The other thing is that you are not charged by the hour per say in a dealership. Diagnoses is usually kept to a 1.0 hour charge. Many times the 1.0 charge is waived when you agree on a repair charge. I doubt the repair bill for finding and fixing the problem would be over two hundred dollars. Now you say you have been tiring to find and fix your problem for a month? Even though you are in a not for profit organization, you can not ignore good and proper economics. The car should just be considered a cost of doing business.

And getting the car fixed and quickly will do that. It is a lot less expensive to repair what you have then to junk it for pennies on the dollar if you can get that and then buy a different car. That is just pure economics.

It's easer than you think, and you can learn it. It seems to me that buy the way you attacked the problem you do want to learn it.

You do not know that for a fact.

When you make statements like that, it is a clear sign of feeling sorry for ones self. Basic human nature. First year psychology classes teach that. Personally I think you are very close to finding what is wrong with the car. Why stop now? I would look at it like a personal challenge and find the problem and fix it.

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" I am a trained "Ford" mechanic and

through diagnosing the car. All the rest of us just stay out of it to avoid confusion.....I think it all can be done with a multimeter but a cheap test light would be better/easier. AGREED? Sharon? Thomas? Everyone? AGREED???????
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I appreciate the effort and the consideration guys. I am sure that Thomas is an excellent mechanic, but I honestly had difficulty understanding large segments of info at a time. I learn much better in bits, I think. I would read Thomas's posts and went into total brain overload. And the multiple names for the same part was making it hard to decipher exactly what I was looking at. Look at AutoZone's website and PartsAmerica's website, and the NG's. You will find a dozen different names for the same part. YEOWWWW And my own lack of knowledge multiplied the confusion 100 fold.
On BeeVee's recent advice, I used starter fluid to see if the car would fire up to make sure the injectors did not get fried. It did start up. Thank you BeeVee, for your calm and rational thinking when I was on total burnout.
I am spending a little time considering a suggestion that someone on this group proposed a while back. To take a distributor (with ignition module included), from junkyard to see if the car would run. If anyone has a good reason to believe that it is most likely NOT in the distributor area, please let me know. It will save me 'thinking time'.
But first, I am going to do what Thomas advised. Step back, rest, and think about this. I truly cannot afford to pay a Ford technician to tow it in and do a diagnostics on it, though. Thomas, I don't know where you live, but the hourly rate is much higher here in southern AZ. I know it is cheaper in NY, where I just came from. I do, however, appreciate your suggestion. I was blessed in NY to have an excellent, independent mechanic, who did all the tough stuff for me after my husband died. I wish he were in AZ!!!!
I talked to a mechanic here and was told to put a hose down the filler tank line and listen to see if I could hear the sound of running water. If I could, then it was most likely a broken nipple inside the fuel tank on the pump. I told BeeVee this and he told me that this may only be the sound of the normal flushing of the sock. So, will I take it to a local non-Ford mechanic at a lesser hourly rate here and get, well you know what?.........
In any event, my not working on the car today helped me to help a few people find cancer info for their kids. That is priceless! Thanks for being kind, and understanding, and concerned. I appreciate the sentiments.
Take Care, Sharon
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put the distributor in correctly. This could open a *very large* can of worms. The ignition module (the thing on the distributor) would be a much easier solution. But I also think it should be diagnosed correctly before spending any money on parts it doesnt need.
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the distributor!! Don't waste time puliing that, it also proves that you did not fry the injector drivers in your computer. It sounds to me like you still have the ongoing problem of a fuel pump that fails to run. It may seem overwhelming to you at the time but it really IS a simple circuit. Go back and reread what Neil and Thomas have told you to test, ignore all the static in the background and you will get it running again. If you have questions just ask away. And don't jumper any more wires together unless you are told to do so. (Remember, ignore the static in the background) Bob

You don't have a broken nipple and there is no flushing of the sock. Bob
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system is making spark and that the engine is in sound enough condition to run. Which leaves still the question is the ECM getting a crank signal? Is the fuel pump actually pumping?
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4

Well, I guess that's what I meant about ignoring the static in the background lol.... Of course you are right, the fact that it ran didn't prove anything about the injectors. My brain must have already been in the sleep mode when I posted that. Thanks for setting the facts straight. Bob
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Glad to be of at least some service.

Caution, that only proves the engine can run. It does not show if the injectors are ok or not.

Not a good idea. The distributor has to be timed to the engine. If that is something you want to do, have some one who is trained at your side guide you. This is not something that should be done from instructions over a news group. Plus you indicated you have very few tools, you will need some as well as a timing light.

I spent 15 years in western NY and grew up in Jersey, I currently live in Florida. I know people all over the states in service departments. Yes there are some areas that are higher than others, New Yourk city for example is very high, but the national average is about $70. I dont know anybody in AZ, so maybe it is $100, but that sounds very high.

I advice you to NOT use this "mechanic", or get any more "advise" from him.

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timing light markings did not line up correctly after a few years of use (most likely timing chain stretched a little). I learned back then how to time with my ear. Oddly enough, over the years my husband ran into a number of cars that we worked on together where the marks were off for whatever reasons (stretched chain or belt, incorrect gauge mark to begin with, or he pulled the distributor and forgot to mark it, or he was installing a new distributor). He would always get me out in the garage to "time it" with my ear. I know that a distributor has to be marked on the housing (already notched), to the distributor, to the rotor, to the gear at the end of the shaft. Yes, it is complicated, and it does not guarantee that the new distributor will line up exactly the same way, but it is doable, with simple tools (I have already marked the base and loosened the bolt to check and make sure that nothing was hanging on the distributor, no broken gears).

notoriously known in this area by the locals as being shoddy, overpriced, and underqualified. I have been warned by several neighbors already. The winter 'touristos' don't know any better, hence it stays in business. Sorry Thomas, not all Ford dealerships are alike.

Thanks for the 'heads up' on this, because I was considering using him to look at this car. I don't want to offend anyone here that may be a mechanic, but all of us know that there are mechanics who are born naturals, those who just never seem to learn, those who are new and still learning (on your car, charging an hourly rate), and those who are just ou-and-out scam artists. It is hard when you arrive in a town not knowing who is who. Thanks Thomas.
Take Care, Sharon
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The distributor is not your problem! Even if you had a problem besides the fuel pump relay you still need to get the relay to work. You are doing too many things at once. Stan
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That is very true. Word of mouth is about the best for of advertisement good or bad.

That is true of any profession/occupation you can name. How many horror stories have you listened to about bad doctors? Lawyers? Home builders? Finical advisers? I'm not necessarily an advocate of taking a car to a dealership, there are a lot of very good and competent independent repair facilities. It is a lot like finding a good doctor or dentist.

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A little more understanding. For future reference, I stumbled on this tonight. I think it is good for a basic info for people like me (kinda like, fuel injection and ignition for dummies). I am just BEGINNING to understand some things that were suggested by all of you and why: http://www.autotune.com/cprotest/cproidx.html
Take Care, Sharon
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