2002 ford focus blower motor

My 2002 ford focus zts blower motor only works on high speed, the other settings don't work. Any ideas?

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The thermal fuse has blown. Unfortunately the thermal fuse is part of the blower resistor assembly.
<From previously posted articles to this group>
I've fixed the same fault on other cars but I haven't done this myself on a Focus. The resistor and fuse assembly is usually mounted in the blower motor air stream and I believe that you can get to the resistor assembly by removing the blower motor in the Focus. Release the glove box by flexing the back plastic sides (a _tiny_ bit of force may be required). The glove box then hangs out of the way and you can see the blower motor and fixings.
Below is what I have advised before but it is worth getting a second or third opinion from the news archives at Google groups.
Type 'thermal fuse blower motor' into the search box (without the quotation marks).
The advice given for other cars is valid.
The fuse is a two legged device which when it reaches a preset temperature blows permanently open circuit.
I would assume that the way the module is constructed that the fuse alone isn't a replaceable part and that a dealer would charge for the whole module. However it is a do-it-yourself fix if you can find the motor 'resistor module' and have some basic electrical soldering capabilities.
In the UK the a replacement thermal fuse (for the do-it-yourself repair) can be obtained quite cheaply (0.5 GPB or less than $1 US) from electronic component stores.
I've included the references to the devices on < http://www.amacleod.clara.co.uk/focus/index.htm
When buying the replacement fuses I've guessed that the one I needed was towards the higher end of the temperature range (150+ degrees C).
On one car I owned the replacement fuse didn't blow again in 6 years (the car was scrapped after that). On a friend's car the replacement fuse is still okay after 9 months.
Before replacing the thermal fuse check it with a meter to see if it open circuit or temporality short across it to see if the motor works on the lower settings.
Despite the warnings about not to solder I've used a high wattage soldering gun and _quickly_ soldered at the ends of the leads. Obviously as it is a one time thermal fuse leaving the soldering iron in contact too long will heat up the whole device to a temperature where the fuse blows. As they are cheap it may be worth ordering a couple - just in case :) You could attach a crocodile clip or bulldog clip as a heat-sink to the body of the fuse while soldering to reduce the heat build-up.
Cut the old thermal fuse out but leave about quarter of an inch of the lead on each side that is crimped to the terminals on the assembly. Leaving a bit of the old lead in place will make soldering the new component in easier. Soldering to the terminal post is difficult unless you can clean it up with a small file.
The problem may have been caused as a result of water getting into the system and the blower motor not running as smoothly as it should. On previous repairs the motor shafts were rusty and some lubrication (ONE DROP of engine oil from the dip-stick) was applied to the motor shaft bearing area.
mailto:news2me_a snipped-for-privacy@amacleod.clara.co.uk
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