battery check ?

In message , Rockmead wrote

12 to 14.5V

However, the terminal voltage could be in this region but the battery could be incapable of providing the high currents needed to turn over and start the engine in cold weather.

What problems are you experiencing?

If the battery on your 1999 car is original and you are having problems starting a prime suspect would be the battery, especially if the car is left out in the cold overnight.

It may also be worth checking the fluid levels in the battery and cleaning and re-making the battery terminal connections.

Most Car batteries only last about 4-5 years. I would say that your battery is just about reached its useful life span.

Its cheap piece of mind to replace them after 4 years.

To check a battery you should really have a load test done on it, most places generally do not charge for this, it only takes them 5 minutes.

But you can do a little test on it yourself. The battery voltage car not running should be 12 volts or close to it. If its 11.0 volts or under, its had it. When the car is running the voltage across the terminals should be about

13.6 - 14 volts. If the car is difficult to start or the lights really dim when you operate the starter this is a sign that the battery is getting weak. Hope this helps.

What voltage/current should my 1999 X reg 1.8 petrol Zetec focus be in the region of ? I would like to check myself before helfords (or similar) charge me for something I do not need.

Thanks Paul

Voltage table from battery faq site:

hth,

tom

All,

The problem I am experiencing is the car has a habit of not starting first time (it used too).

I have checked the battery my self and also the guys at halfords who deemed it fine (I was expecting a sales pitch), my local (reliable garage) have cleaned and adjusted the plugs. But the problem still remians what else can I do to narrow the problem down ?? or fix it ?

Paul TIA

Alan wrote:

Do you mean it cranks slowly and thus doesnt start, or cranks normally but just doesnt fire on the first attempt?

Tim..

The car cranks and does not fire on the first attempt. HTH

Tim (Remove NOSPAM. wrote:

If the ignition system was checked and service, then the next check should be on your fuel system. Do you let the car site a min in the on position, before cranking the engine?

imho,

tom @

Try the 2nd ignition key on its own for a couple of days... If it then behaves normally and starts first crank- get a new main key.

Tim..

In message , "Tim (Remove NOSPAM." wrote

A duff key would not allow the engine to even start turning over.

Yep. As I discovered when I had my most recent key cut. I tried it just for yucks to see how the car would behave with the key 'unprogrammed'. To my surprise, the starter would not even turn. I had previously read somewhere that without the ECU having learned the RFID chip in the PATS key, that the engine would start and run briefly (~ 1s) before shutting down. Nope. It won't even crank, much less start or run.

When I tried a newly cut key, before I programmed it, I found that everything was dead. i.e. the starter motor is not powered.

Hmm that is most odd, as my 2000 1.8 Zetec with the Siemens-linked PATS system will crank but not fire. Whilst the PATS like flashes quickly.. I too tried with an un programmed newly cut key..

Can only assume Ford used either different software or a different breed of PATS unit which works slightly differently in some cars?

Tim..

Did anything develope from this?

later,

tom @