Focus TDCi starting problems.

This post is for the benefit of anyone else experiencing a problem whereby their TDCi will crank but not fire, but fire up OK the second time. Lots of
other people seem to be having the problem over the last few years, myself included.
Anyone doing research on Google may be interested to know that I had the starter motor and crank shaft position sensor replaced, but this did not cure the problem. However last week they finally found two fault codes in the system. One was relating to the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, and the other to the Injectors. They cleaned the connections on the sensor, as they reckoned it was a connection problem rather than failure of the sensor. For the injectors, they reprogrammed the injector ID codes back into the system, as it seemed to have lost them.
Having driven the car for a week now it does seem to start more confidently and is certainly a lot more perky than it's been for a while. Won't know if this has definitely cured it for another month or so, but thought this info might be of use to someone.
Gary.
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<snip>

Unfortunately I must report that the starting problem has reoccured again. And now the increase in performance seen after the injector code reprogramming, is most definitely gone. The dealer ran a full diagnostic on the car and found no problems. They also think it's driving fine, but I'm certain that it's not. There was a very noticable torque increase after the original work they done, which suddenly disappeared after the latest failed start. I'm 100% certain of this. I can't convince them of this however, unless a fault code shows up to point them in some direction. It seems therefore that the suspected FRP sensor connection wasn't the problem. I did hear an arching/buzzing type noise coming from a central location behind the dashboard on several occassions, but this didn't seem to mean anything to them either, and of course it only happens once in a while too...
If anyone reading this has any suggestions, I'd be mighty grateful, because I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that I'd be better off trading it in and getting something other than a Ford!
Cheers,
Gary.
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I would definately insist they change the FRPS and also check the EGR valve. Whilst the later will not cause a no-start it will hamper performance.
All TDCi EGR valves are well known to be leaky and faulty at an early age. Blanking it off is the best solution but your dealer may not want to do that.
Tim..
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Hi Tim.
Thanks for the advice. Again! My dealer won't do anything more unless they get diagnostic codes. They don't seem to be very flexible that way, and I've already had to write to their head office to get this far, so I'll do that again and suggest they change the FRPS and check the EGR valve. The performance was spot on after the injector code reprogramming, but they wouldn't even check that when I was in unless a fault code told them to! Had consistently sloppy service from them over the past three years, but unfortunately they've bought up almost all the independant Ford Dealers in Northern Ireland, so I'm a bit stuck. This is a Ford Chairmans Award winning company too...
Is there anything I could do myself with this? i.e. buy the sensor and fit it myself? I wouldn't start any major dismantling work, but if it's a plug in and go job, or some relatively simple mechanics, I'm compentent enough to handle that. Also, do you know if you need a Ford WDS2000 to do things like reprogram injector codes, or would a local independant mechanic be likely to have similar equipment? Cos I'm guessing the parts can't be that expensive, and that the problem has to be something simple to do with the engine electronics, and if I can pay a guy a modest amount to get it all sorted I'd be happy to do that, and get stuck into Lindsay Ford about it all later!
Thanks again for your advice here and in previous posts. Certainly strikes me that yourself is a lot more helpful than my dealer, and they're being paid to be helpful!
Gary.
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Fault codes are not there for diagnosing problems- they are for pointing you in the right direction. Many many drivability problems will not set any fault codes, because the ECU does not see a signal that is erroneous or out of range.
Find yourself another dealer who will work on the car without being dependant on his FCR!

You cannot do anything without the FDS unit alas, recalibrating the injectors is certainly a no no!You can read any codes through the instrument panel though.
You can replace the FRPS if you are fairly skilled. As you know the common rail runs at a blindingly high pressure and the fuel mist from a leak is both invisble and will penetrate human skin even from a distance such is the pressure. Beware. Work only on the system after the engine has been stationary for 6+hrs and after carefully depressurizing the rail. Otherwise the FRPS is a remove and replace operation. The engine will require quite abit of cranking to re-start after the work- do not touch the thorttle pedal and crank it in long bursts.
Tim..
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"Tim..1" wrote:
> message > > &nbsp;> > I would definately insist they change the FRPS and > also check the EGR > &nbsp;> > valve. > &nbsp;> > Whilst the later will not cause a no-start it will > hamper performance. > &nbsp;> > > &nbsp;> > All TDCi EGR valves are well known to be leaky and > faulty at an early > age. > &nbsp;> > Blanking it off is the best solution but your dealer > may not want to do > &nbsp;> > that. > > > > Hi Tim. > > > > Thanks for the advice. Again! My dealer won't do anything > more unless they > > get diagnostic codes. They don't seem to be very flexible > that way, and > I've > > already had to write to their head office to get this far, > so I'll do that > > again and suggest they change the FRPS and check the EGR > valve. The > > performance was spot on after the injector code > reprogramming, but they > > wouldn't even check that when I was in unless a fault code > told them to! > > Fault codes are not there for diagnosing problems- they are > for pointing you > in the right direction. Many many drivability problems will > not set any > fault codes, because the ECU does not see a signal that is > erroneous or out > of range. > > Find yourself another dealer who will work on the car without > being > dependant on his FCR! > > > Is there anything I could do myself with this? i.e. buy the > sensor and fit > > it myself? I wouldn't start any major dismantling work, but > if it's a plug > > in and go job, or some relatively simple mechanics, I'm > compentent enough > to > > handle that. Also, do you know if you need a Ford WDS2000 to > do things > like > > reprogram injector codes, or would a local independant > mechanic be likely > to > > have similar equipment? Cos I'm guessing the parts can't be > that > expensive, > > and that the problem has to be something simple to do with > the engine > > electronics, and if I can pay a guy a modest amount to get > it all sorted > I'd > > be happy to do that, and get stuck into Lindsay Ford about > it all later! > > You cannot do anything without the FDS unit alas, > recalibrating the > injectors is certainly a no no!You can read any codes through > the instrument > panel though. > > You can replace the FRPS if you are fairly skilled. As you > know the common > rail runs at a blindingly high pressure and the fuel mist from > a leak is > both invisble and will penetrate human skin even from a > distance such is the > pressure. Beware. Work only on the system after the engine has > been > stationary for 6+hrs and after carefully depressurizing the > rail. Otherwise > the FRPS is a remove and replace operation. The engine will > require quite > abit of cranking to re-start after the work- do not touch the > thorttle pedal > and crank it in long bursts. > > Tim..
okay , forgive me my writing errors,sinds i am not english.
i have 2 things for u to check:
1:empty your fuelfilter in a glass,and see if ther are metal pecies in it. it is a well know problem in europe.
2: find out if the camshaftsensor puts out a 6 volt signal. if so you can get a wireset to put the sensor on 12 volt. this is an importand signal for the cpu .and also a know problem.
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Hi there, and many thanks for your reply. Number 1 has been tried, and ruled out some time ago, and number 2 was rectified late last year! I haven't had time to follow this up yet, but was in the process of composing a letter to Ford when they actually rang to check on my case. They are going to talk to the garage, and to Ford Technical. If I find out anything which could be of use to someone else, I'll post it back here.
Thanks again,
Gary.
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