Thanks for the warning on possibly making matters worse by breaking those bolts as well. I did consider the replacement of the whole hub (CT have a special on this week in my area - 25% off so it may be a good deal) and break shoes while I have it off.
You mention that they come with the bearing installed. Is this a normal configuration? Also, would it come with the lug bolts installed or is this extra? Lastly, from what I could see the main nut seems to be about 28mm (I couldn't get the vernier into the space around the nut) and I'll have to purchase a socket for it. Does someone perhaps have the actual size on hand?
Sorry for all the questions but I like to have the options before shopping around.
P.S. I've seen the lug nuts in Walmart before and I am considering getting some to prevent this issue in the future (and now that I'm replacing the tires I'm also using a torque wrench).
You can buy replacement chrome plated lug nuts from Wal-Mart. They cost
> about $6.50 for a package 4.
> The Distributor of these nuts is
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The size you will> need is 12 x 1.5. 19mm Acorn short.>
> As far as removing the drum assembly using the "removing the rear lug bolts
> technique". Removing the 4 retaining bolts on the stub axle can be a problem
> if they have never been removed before, Those suckers are really corroded
> on.. The tools you will need is penetrating oil and an air impact wrench and
> then they still might break. I have always removed the drums by removing
> the centre nut. Its a good idea to replace the nut after 4 times on and off
> as it has a ceramic lock and it wears out. Depending on the year of the car
> and the mileage, you might want to consider that it would be easier just to
> replace the drum assembly. You can buy drum assemblies with the wheel
> bearing already installed. Hope this helps.
>
> In an earlier post the replacement of the front lug bolts was explained:
>
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>
> However, I managed to break 2 of the rear lug bolts last night while
> removing the winter tires. In order to remove the lug bolts I would have to
> gain entry to the area inside the hub.
>
> From the manual I see that I can either:
> a. Remove the hub by removing the main wheel nut and take the chance of
> damaging the wheel bearing in the process or,
> b. Remove the entire stub axel by removing the 4 retaining bolts holding the
> stub axel & bearing/hub assembly to the suspension.
>
> Q1. Is the second method (b) the correct way to do this and, if so, are
> there any "gotcha's" to be carefull of?
> Q2. New lug bolts - is this something I can pick up at a local Canadian Tire
> or is it a dealer only type of thing?
>
> Thanks for any assistance.
>
> As a matter of interest it seems like 2 issues were the cause of the > problem.
> 1. Whoever put it on has not heard of a torque wrench.
> 2. Ford's strange decision to have open ended lug nuts that allow water to
> get into the threads if the little silver cap is lost (most of mine have
> managed to fall off during the last 3 years).
>
>
>