Rear brakes hard change?

2001 Focus wagon, I changed front brake pads and rotors without too much difficulty have been avoiding doing rear brakes heard it was hard to get drums off.
Anyone had experience doing rear shoes or tips that might help. I have 145,000 kms on vehicle and know I better change them before I have a problem.
Garry
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GO wrote:

Hi Garry
This has been discussed loads of times here before, if you Google in groups you will find all the info you need.
Basically it is easier/better to remove the drums and hubs complete by undoing the 4 bolts that hold them to the backplate. It gives you more room to work and avoids disturbing the wheel bearings.
HTH
Chris
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The only problem using the 4 bolt removal system is that if you have never had these bolts removed and reinstalled, it will be impossible to get then loosened without using air tools. The lower shock mounting bolt has to be also removed to get proper access. I live in a province where they used ice melter on the roads and it rusts external car mechanical parts like crazy. The only way to get the fasteners undone is to use a very large impact gun.
I just removed the spindle nut, and from what I found out so does most dealerships and brake shops. The nut can be reused 4 times. Torque is about 160lbs.
GO wrote:

Hi Garry
This has been discussed loads of times here before, if you Google in groups you will find all the info you need.
Basically it is easier/better to remove the drums and hubs complete by undoing the 4 bolts that hold them to the backplate. It gives you more room to work and avoids disturbing the wheel bearings.
HTH
Chris
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Remove prejudice to reply



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Henri wrote:

bolt has to be

This argument comes up every time rear brake access is discussed! All I can say is that I have used the 4-bolt method a number of times on both my Focus, and on a number of Escorts (which have essentially the same brakes) without a problem. It is the Haynes manual recommended way.
Cars with ABS need the sensor wire threaded through with a bit of care.
As a DIYer, I don't have access to any kind of impact gun. I just remove them with a 13mm socket, short extention and ratchet - no problem!
I have never had to remove the lower shock mounting bolt - I can't see how it is in the way unless there is a difference between US/European spec.
Removing the hub nut leaves the hub in the way, making shoe removal/replacement much more difficult. It also runs the risk of wheel bearing contamination or maladjusment on re-assembly.
Here in the UK salt is also used abundantly on the roads in winter but I've never noticed it causing sufficient corrosion on fasteners such that removal was impossible.
YMMV
Chris

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I also live in such a winter climate, but if you get the car properly undercoated such fastenings can be removed reasonably easily. An air gun is useful, but a socket extension combined with a shot of anti-seizing spray works just as well.
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There are four bolts coming in from the backside that allow you to remove the Drum along with the bearing! 17mm socket with various extensions. It's relatively easy once you know how to get the drum off!!
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