'98 Ranger Rear Drums

On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:21:10 -0800, fb rearranged some electrons to say:

Make sure you turned the adjuster in the proper direction (they are threaded differently on each side).

Since shoes are sold in pairs, why?

Next, they must match when installed. They may wear as time goes on, but must start out matched (and the wear will match as well when it happens...)

First, replace both shoes. Really, the radius on the old secondary is not equal to the radius of the new primary. They need to match.

Once both shoes are replaced, inspect to be 100% sure they are really backed off completely. Also check to make sure they are installed correctly (compare to the other side, assuming you didn't remove both at one time). Make sure everything is seated properly, too.

Sign that perhaps the drum is the wrong one (too small) the shoes were wrong, or the shoes were not properly radiused when installed.

Yes, it is called radiusing the shoes, which grinds the lining to match the drum's exact diameter. If you don't, you get really strange wear, and crappy brakes. Also, bad wear!

Why would you say that? Replacement of shoes is different than throwing in a new set of disk brake pads.

1. Make sure they are (both) installed correctly.
2. Make sure the adjuster is adjusted properly.
3. Make sure your new shoes are arced (radiused) properly to the drum's diameter.

If the self adjuster is backed down all the way and the shoes and hardware are installed properly, only two things can keep the shoes far enough apart that the drum can't be installed;

1) the parking brake is over adjusted 2) the wheel cylinders are seized and the pistons are out too far.

Both shoes should be either rivetted or bonded, but not one of each. REPLACE ALL FOUR SHOES.

Always replace all four shoes or pads -- an Axle Set. NEVER EVER replace one shoe on each side, or both shoes on one side but not the other. (or pads). Brake shoes and pads are sold in complete sets for a reason.

The new shoes should be ground at about a 45 to 60 degree angle on the very ends.

It sounds like the shoes and drums are not the same diameter.

Place the new shoes inside the drum and make sure the ENTIRE shoe contacts the drum. If it does not, then either the shoes are wrong or the drum(s) is(are) wrong.

You have serious safety issues on your hands.

Took one apart the other day('70 Road Runner 4wheel drums). Previous "mechanic" had both primary shoes on the left side and both secondary shoes on the right in the front. Owner said it had always had a brake pull since the last brake job.

Thank you! That was a great reply, I'll smile for the next few days when I think about it... (Personally, I wonder if the owner was the one who did that 'last brake job'?)

In this case, no. He had the car at another restoration shop for a complete re-do. Became unhappy, disillusioned, pissed off after over a year and several reworkings of the same problem areas, pulled it out of that shop and brought it straight to ours. We promptly pulled it down to a bare body(it was running and driving when we got it), sandblasted the whole thing and started from scratch. It would have been the other shop that assembled the brakes. Now you know a bit of why he got pissed off. The rest of the story was the

3 days I spent sandblasting fiberglass out of the rust holes so we could put metal back in. It's got a 440/4sp with a pistol grip shifter. Can't wait to test drive this bad boy!

That would piss off a saint!

Sounds nice. I had a T handle (Hurst) shifter in my 68 Camaro, and loved it. Incredible shifting, great feel. I like(d) the T handle over the pistol, seemed more natural.

I'm with you, the throw on that pistol grip is quite long. The thing that makes it cool is that it was stock to the car.

I prefer the plain old white ball, but I guess that's why there's different options available!

nate

I'm in the process of dropping a 302/ c-6 into my old '6 F-100. I was pleased to see that the 8ball knob that was on the truck when I bought it will fit my new Mr Gasket shifter. On my Jeep I have a set of old glass doorknobs I bought off Ebay.

When (drag) racing, the ball can hurt the hand. For normal driving, it's fine.

Please post a picture of the Jeep's shifter on the web, that sounds cool.

I looked, but all the pics I have are of the exterior. I sold the Jeep to my kid, so I don't have it outside to take a pic, but these are exactly like the ones I used(NOT my auction):

I also had a pair on an old International Travelall I used to own, and when I got the Jeep I looked for another set. They do get a lot of comments, and try as I might I can't get the kid to trade the stock knobs for those so I can have 'em back. Might bid on the above though, just to have 'em. I don't remember if it was the International or the Jeep, but one of them threaded right on and the other I had to fill the knob with JB Weld and drill and retap it to fit.

>

Heck, I know where you can get a lifetime supply of those for not a whole lot of money. DAGS for "Architectural Salvage" and you'll probably find a store that'll have a whole drawer full of 'em. Or see if you have a Habitat for Humanity ReStore near you. And if you go, I could use some small brass doorknobs and a particular kind of brass escutcheon for my house, email for pics :) (I cleaned out the place near me, but I still need a couple more) Also I could use some of those old school pressed brass switch plates with the nice crisp corners :)

nate

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Wish I had a "Habitat for Humanity ReStore" near me...