carb help, please...300 inline 6 1-barrel

My '82 F-100 flunked the GA emissions test, and my mechanic said he can order a new carb for it (he gave me an okay on 2nd test). I understand that he doesn't want to waste time w/garbage, but I feel he's gonna slap me with an expensive carb. The truck sat at his shop for a week. I bought oil, filter, pcv valve, pvc filter, plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, etc. etc. I had called him to set it up a week earlier. He's excellent, but working alone. After 4 days I called and said I was coming to get the truck today (day 5) no matter what. He did nothing else to it, but give my wife the emissions ok (which I'm thankful for). I always call in advance, get the parts (to save $ and time), leave him a list, Haynes book, and my phone #, AND a car magazine (Hot Rod this time). I pay immediately and am very thankful and polite. But it's always a week before he starts a simple job. I know he's in demand... I took it in about a year ago. He put a NEW carb on, and then decided I needed a new/used 300 inline 6 from an '86...okay, that COST me $1400 bucks...he put the new carb on the '86, and now it needs another??? I'm on the edge of being fired for missing time, and I'm 52 (forklift driver)...this week cost me another $250 to rent a Cavalier :+( I can't buy another vehicle. No buses, taxiis to work (rural Ga)...this is driving me NUTS! So many mechanics are crooked and/or stupid, I guess I'm lucky... I'm going to get the truck tomorrow a.m. and get the part # off the carb (1-barrel). I can't "do" carbs myself, etc. I see carbs on ebay for $10-$75...can I get a junkyard carb and hope? I know - bite the bullet and listen to him....geez - my wife drives a

2000 Focus that's ready to implode, and I know about dealer stories... I know I'm lucky, should talk to the guy, getURdun while I wait, etc... anybody reading my insomniac rambling - thanks! and ideas? MANY thanks! (sorry for ranting) :+) Paul
Reply to
paulmbedard
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Replacing a carb isn't rocket surgery. Simple R&R job. I'll bet it's in the Haynes book. If you HAVE to have a new carb, I sure wouldn't spend money on an 'unknown' part from ebay or a junkyard. Holley rebuilds these carbs, they do it right, and the cost is less than $100 last time I checked. Call around to parts stores for prices. If you have already passed the tests, why the need for the carb at this time?

Dave S(Texas)

Reply to
putt

I drove it home this a.m. It's down in m.p.g. to about 10 from 17, and the top speed is down from 75-85 to 65...I'm happy I can even drive it, to get to work and back. Thanks for the reply. I notice even J.C. Whitney has them rebuilt for $140...you helped me save a bunch of $ again, thanks, Paul ( I can't see how it passed the tests, but then again - maybe it didn't and did! :+)

Reply to
paulmbedard

Hi, The Ford 300 inline six is a good motor. The only critical thing is the compression. All cylinders should be within 5% of each other and prefferably no less than 100lbs. of pressure each. This can manifest itself by exessive oil burning or engine shaking because of a burnt valve. The engine should idle smoothly. A burnt valve will cause shaking at idle. I'm not familier with the emission system on your truck though. If the compression is good all you need to pass smog is new spark plugs, cap, and rotor. You also need an oil change and good thermostat and sometimes spark plug wires. I work on all my family's cars and have done everything from porsche and jaguar transmissions and engines to american trucks to motorcycles and boats. I used to also race turbo charged motorcycles and did all my own work and tuning. I have never had a problem I couldn't fix yet. Anyway, the parts you use should be of very good quality. I am a firm believer in Autolite or NGK spark plugs. These are excellent plugs. I run them on my harley, portable welders, and all my cars and trucks. Don't run Champion. They don't last. The same for Autolite spark plug wires. They are a very good wire. These usually carry a lifetime warranty if you don't pull off the boots at the spark plugs. With the electronic ignition you should not have to time it as the timing never changes. A tune up is very simple. To pass smog you also must have clean oil and carburetor. You should not have to rebuild or replace your carburetor more than every 5 years. Just run 2 cans of berryman's carb cleaner ocassionally in your gas tank. The truck may run rough until the berryman's is burned out of the system. Nothing to worry about. This will also help you pass smog. If you replace your carb get a good used rebuilt from a good specialty place or reputable parts place. There is no substitution for quality. Carbs are easy to rebuild. The only critical things in rebuilding is to make sure on the tightness of the jets, the correct float level, and the cleanlyness of the ports. You should blow out all the ports (holes) with compressed air. Don't forget the fuel filter. All carburetors have the same idle air adjustment. You start out at 1 and a half turns from closed. Open the screw every 30 seconds in 1 quarter of a turn increments. What you are looking for is the best clean idle. Your idle should increase with every quarter turn. You may also find that it may speed up in the closing direction, but this is not un-usual. When you get the idle to the engines fastest speed come back a quarter turn to finish. Make sure that all your rubber hoses are good so that you don't have any vacuum leaks. A good oil I live by for all engines is Valvoline straight 40 weight. I run it in everything. You should open your spark plug gap to .045. this is about .010 more than the specs say. This will increase your gas mileage. You can also retard your timing a couple of degrees. Important, you must run a 1 step colder plug than stock. With the retarded timing this will make your engine run cooler. Also, try to run a good quality 160 degree brass thermostat. Heat is an engines worst enemy. Un-burned hydrocarbons is the product of poor detonation. CO is the product of mechanical means such as rich mixtures, poor compression, air leaks, or tune up. If you need further information or help don't hesitate to Email me. Good luck. Jessie

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Reply to
Jessie Herrera

Appreciate the information. Now...can you move to Atlanta? :+) Paul

Oh yeah; I was reading about plugs on a Focus n.g., and they confirm what you say - the Autolites work much better on Fords than Bosch. We took her 2000 Focus to Pep Boys and they did a LOT of good work for us in about 5 hours, and on a Saturday! They stopped the stalling, weak idle (02 sensor burning the plugs or something like that, complete tuneup, fuel filter, emissions repair, fuel injector replacement, etc. etc. AND resurfaced a rotor, new pads and linings, etc. Next week it'll be new shocks/struts (didn't have struts in store)...much better than keeping a car for a week to tell you it needs a new car! So I'm a big fan of Pep Boys so far...I almost bought a minibike to put in the back of the F-100, so when it breaks down I can zoom to work like a Power Ranger or something... has anyone experienced water in the gas? It's happened to me twice in Georgia...and I've been told to get off the 87 octane, which is specified for the Focus, and go to at least 89...is this a waste of $??

Reply to
paulmbedard

Check and make sure the old carb is tight on the intake first. Grab it and wiggle it.

GOD BLESS THE USA

Reply to
Bob

If you're getting water in the gas from the station, changing to 89 octane may not help. If the water is coming from condensation or intrusion into your fuel system, again 87 octane may not help. I would voice my concerns to your fuel station about the possibility of water in their storage tanks. I would but some "HEET" or a similar product and use it per the instructions with your next two or three tanks of 87 octane fuel. You should also change fuel filter(s). This should solve your problem.

Dave D

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Reply to
DaveD

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