codes

1999 Ranger 4.0 L.

Check eng light on but the shop cannot get a code. They reset the light but it came back on in couple of days.

Usually runs rough for about 5 to 10 seconds on cold start, then runs fine the rest of the time.

If I remember right, Ford retains some of the codes for their dealers.

Question: If my shop does not get a code, does that mean nothing is wrong or does it mean it something is wrong but code is not available to their diagnostic tool?

Thanks

Reply to
mark
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I think it's time to try another reader. Pepboys and others will read it for free.

Reply to
tomcas

It means they have inadequate equipment.

Try a professional shop.

Reply to
aarcuda69062

On Fri, 30 Jan 2009 16:38:52 -0500, mark rearranged some electrons to say:

It means that you should go to a shop that knows what they are doing.

Reply to
david

You need a new mechanic.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

Do you have any other symptoms? Is it losing coolant? I'd try cleaning the IAC, replace the air cleaner, clean the MAF, check the PCV valve, check the spark plugs, and see if the light goes out. Sometimes it takes three "drive cycles" for it to go off.

I don't think a leaking head gasket would give you an error code, but I may be wrong. I also don't know if a vacuum leak would give a code but I'd check the vacuum lines anyway.

Aside from that I agree with what everyone else said.

Reply to
Ulysses

On Tue, 03 Feb 2009 08:40:14 -0800, Ulysses rearranged some electrons to say:

A vacuum leak would set a 'lean' code.

Reply to
david

You sir are the first one to address the situation with some actual ideas. Thank you.

Yes it has lost coolant, not much, but I had to add some last month and have been keeping an eye on it ever since. I thought about a blown head gasket put it is hard to tell in this cold weather if more steam than usual is coming out of the pipe. When it warms up, the exhaust is clean, no steam.

Air Cleaner, plugs, plug wires and pcv valve were replaced last summer.

The shop I mentioned replaced the ect sensor about a month before the light came on again so they do know how to read codes and the truck ran a lot better when they were done.

I will be looking at the plugs and vacuum lines MAF and IAC when the weather warms up a bit.

I only drive it once or twice a week, which also led me to believe it doesn't like to sit.

Thanks

Reply to
mark

If you can see steam, the problem is fatal. You can go for years without any noticable steam. This is not a reliable test.

If there is a problem that needs to be fixed, there would be a code to tell you what needs to be fixed. By definition, if there is a drivability problem, there should be a code. If there is no code, you can throw hundreds of dollars at the problem and still not fix anything. You have a Check light, you MUST have a code. The whole point of the light is to tell you there is a code.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

On my '91 Explorer (4.0L OHV) you can read most of the codes with a voltmeter by watching the "sweeps." However, some of the codes require a code reader. I think my Hayne's manual refers to it as a "Star" reader. I know nothing about any dealer-only codes but then I'm not a real auto mechanic, just the shade-tree type.

Reply to
Ulysses

On Thu, 05 Feb 2009 08:58:01 -0800, Ulysses rearranged some electrons to say:

You can't read OBD-II codes with a voltmeter. The OP has an OBD-II vehicle.

Reply to
david

Yes, but he said that his mechanic could not read *all* the codes so I was wondering (or even suggesting) that perhaps there are some code readers that read all the codes and some that only read the Hard codes and Memory codes. I was just using the OBD 1 as an example and didn't mean to suggest that his codes could be read with a voltmeter. I'm probably going to be getting a used Ranger soon so if I'm going to get a code reader I'd like to know if I need to spend more to get the right one and how to tell the difference.

Reply to
Ulysses

There are generic OBD2 codes and then there are manufacturer enhanced codes. The cheap little code readers will not read the manufacturer enhanced codes.

The way to tell is; if it is a code reader, it is not the right one.

Reply to
aarcuda69062

I'm sure I'm missing something here so at the risk of sounding really dumb just what *is* it called if it's the right one?

Reply to
Ulysses

Scan Tool.

Reply to
aarcuda69062

OK. Thanks.

Reply to
Ulysses

As luck would have it, after reading this, I got a "CHECK ENGINE" light. I went to Advance Auto Parts and borrowed their scanner (service they provide) - Pep Boys does too - and got a "P0401 EGR Flow Insufficient." Removed the EGR valve and it had a lot of carbon buildup, but diaphragm was working fine. Mechanically cleaned out the valve with a Dremel and small wire brush - and then ran some CRC down the valve (taking care not to get any of this crap on the diaphragm). Checked the vacuum supply to the valve and all was well. Reassembled

- code gone.

These code scanners are sooooo helpful

Reply to
Blue C5

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