Ford Econoline E-350 in RV with Bad Handling Qualities

I would suggest getting the unit weighed first and then go from there. Obviously, you will want to obtain the front axle, rear axle, and total weight and compare those readings against the manufacturer's specifications. I'd be real surprised if you find that the front axle weight is not at the upper limits of its maximum rating. Being familiar with this chassis in the ambulance industry, most smbulance manufacturers are happy if they have a remaining front axle payload of 400 lbs. (weighing in at 4,200 lbs) on the front axle (4,600 lbs. rating). If anything, manufacturers and consumers alike, are looking for ways to move weight further to the rear and reducing the weight on the front axle. Even with the E-450 (which incidentally has the same front axle rating as the E-350 with the Ambulance Prep package), manufacturers are building longer bodies which cantilever weight over the rear axle to reduce front axle overload.

Those symptoms could be under inflated tires or the wrong size tires. Just check the tires for 'E' rating and the proper inflation. I believe that should be 80 lbs.

"FlyingMike via CarKB.com" <u16563@uwe> wrote in message news:58d8f9a763c10@uwe... : My mother has purchased an RV that is on a 1999 E-350 Chassis. Since the : beginning, the RV has handled terribly on the road. It feels very unstable : and is very difficult to keep it going straight on any type of road. The : driver must continually correct the over/under steer. Both tires wear : terribly on the outer edges inside and out. We have had several alignments : done and it is always reported that the vehicle meets the specifications for : an E-350. We took it to a semi-tractor trailer chassis shop and they : recommended helper springs on the rear axle. The thought was that there was : far too little weight on the front wheels. This seemed logical so we went : ahead and had the springs added. The helper springs had no effect and the : tires continue to wear terribly. The vehicle seems unsafe and it is very : tiring to drive this vehicle for any distance. Does anyone know what can be : done to address these symptoms or does anyone know what the weight : differential should be on the front and rear tires. Thanks in advance for : your help! : : -- : Message posted via CarKB.com :

== Not enough info but, I would hazard a guess. Too much pressure in the front tires or too little in the rears. Geoff.

I had same problem with my E350 30' Motor Home when I bought it used. While driving home I wanted to drive it off a cliff it handled so bad. 50mph was max safe speed, and I mean MAX.

What I did to correct problem.

Put 4 Blistine shocks on it. Old ones shot.

Put new steering stableliser bar on it. Old one was shot.

Had front end aligned by someone who knows what the hell there doing as most front end guys don't with big trucks.

Put 6 new Michelin tires of the right size on it.

Now I can drive at 75mph pulling my Van behind and it drives as good as any pickup. Yes, 75 MPH is safe, it's the dumbassess out in front of you that's dangerous.

Gene

Gene,

Thanks for the input. When you say you replaced the stabilizer bar, was that the steering damper or the actual stabilizer bar itself. How do you check to determine if the stabilizer is bad?

Thanks again,

Fly>I had same problem with my E350 30' Motor Home when I bought it used. While

Mike:

I replaced the steering damper with one from Campers World. Put the best one on you can get. And no I don't remember which one I used now.

My Son-in-law checked the stabilizer bar and said it was ok but not sure how he did it.

The front end alignment made the most improvement. But all ARE needed to be safe

Gene

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com..

My experience with the Class C Ford chassis was similar - it would not track straight except on brand new pool table flat pavement. Replacing the shocks with Bilsteins made a huge difference. Incremental improvements came from new steering damper, proper tire inflation (get it weighed with you and your family in it and fully loaded and ready to go camping and look up the manufacturer's tire chart for your specific tire), loading the front axle as close to GAWR as possible (I put too much weight behind the rear axle and unloaded the front axle). I had no issues with sway bar end link wear or other suspension components. When you get the alignment done, make sure the rig is fully loaded with water, fuel, propane, beer, etc. If your rig has the twin I beam front suspension, the shop must be equipped to bend them as required as there is no adjustment for either caster or camber. Can't remember which. Ask a couple of RV dealers which shop they recommend.

Good luck with your "wiggle wagon" ______________________________ Greg H Salmon Arm, BC (remove 9 to reply)