Help! Are my F350 brakes ok?

Hi,

I have a '99 F350 dually V10 long bed SuperDuty 4x4 with antilock disc brakes on all wheels that I bought used about 3 years ago. The tires have about 5,000 miles on them and are Goodyear like the originals.

First, some history: Before I bought the truck I took it to a Ford dealer to have it checked out. Cost me about $65 but well worth the money. The Ford dealer told me the left front rotor needed replacing as well as some other non related issues not related to brakes.

I replaced both front rotors. The rear rotors don't look too bad but there is some pitting. I bought severe duty pads from NAPA and installed them in front and back.

Last year after my wife had driven the truck she told me she thought something was wrong with the brakes. We are fortunate she got home with it. When I tried the brakes the pedal went to the floor. The metal brake line running to the rear brakes was rusted and split, gushing brake fluid. The reservoir was very low. I was surprised that this would happen, since the truck was only about 4 years old. I bought replacement brake line and repaired it, then bled the brakes at each wheel according to the manual. Is there any other place there might be some air mixed in with the brake fluid besides the lines to the wheels and the wheel brake cylinders that I forgot about?

The Question: In all the time I have owned the truck, I have never felt like the brakes worked as well as they should. This includes before and after replacing the broken metal rear brake line.

I don't expect the truck to stop like a small car, but since I have never owned a truck like this before, I don't know if the brakes are ok. The biggest vehicle I owned before the truck was a 2 door 95'Ford Explorer with ABS that stopped very quickly.

Braking Examples: I thought there might be a problem with the ABS, but if it is raining and I panic brake, the pedal modulates as expected and brings the truck to a smooth stop.

On a dry level road, if I panic brake, the truck stops smoothly and fairly well, but the ABS never activates, and the tires never screech or lockup. Shouldn't the tires screech a little or the ABS activate some when I do this?.

Does anyone have a benchmark for panic braking? For example, traveling at 25 mph on a level, dry road, and panic braking. How many feet should the truck stop in? If I had this information, I could run my own test.

The brake pedal requires a fair amount of pressure. To check the vacuum brake booster I pumped the brake pedal a few times with the engine off, and when the engine was started the pedal did drop some. The service manual says this means the booster is working. Could the booster be weak or leaky or something?

Am I overlooking something? Thanks for reading my rambling post. I know there are some experts out there and I hope you can give me some guidance.

Thanks,

Jack

PS If you care to send email, please remove the xyz from my email address.

Reply to
Jack
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If memory serves there is a specific method of bleeding the brakes with ABS, you might have air in the accumulator.

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

Yep there's a specific way to do it, Wagner brakes puts out a pretty good description of it, most parts places that sell Wagner should be able to hook you up with it. I don't recall the procedure well enough to advise you on it.

Spdloader

Reply to
Spdloader

When I looked this up in my manual, it just says to bled RR, RF, LR, LF in that order - I couldn't find any other tricks to bleeding. I'm having similar problems, same truck model and year, so if anyone else has ideas they would sure be appreciated. Thanks

John

Reply to
invalid unparseable

Sign up at thedieselstop.com and ask in there. There are some pretty knowledgeable people around if you have a coupla days to wait for an answer.

Dave.

Reply to
Dave

Did you check on the Wagner brakes guide?

Spdloader

Reply to
Spdloader

Make sure there isn't any air left in the master cylinder

As you can see the lines are lower then the highest point so all the air wont bleed out once it's in there

You might have to remove the master cylinder, bench bleed it while tilting it over a bit and re-install it

If you have the famous cruise control de-activation switch on the front of the master, try to remove it and bleed the front brake portion thru there

Reply to
JohanB

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