New clutch: Please help!

Hi Group; Without going into a long rant about a chain auto repair store that just tried to rip me off, kept my truck for a MONTH, etc. etc. I hope someone can help (please).... Anyhow, the vehicle is an '82 Ford dual-tank longbed pickup w/ 300 inline six, and had a 3 speed plus "granny" gear transmission. The clutch began slipping slightly, and just a day later, went completely. I had it towed to this franchise store because until this time, they were excellent; in quickness, charges, courtesy, honesty, etc. While getting ready to do a clutch change and flywheel re-surfacing, they said the tranny needed replacing. I had never noticed any problems, etc, but after a few haggles agreed to it. The flywheel was also replaced. They had trouble locating a suitable identical transmission (it's a TRUCK and this is GEORGIA), but they got a "T-4" (???) It's in now, but as soon as I drove it from the shop, I didn't like it. This is what's worrying me:

It shifts very nicely, precisely, with no noise, and much shorter lever travel. It's not a rowing machine anymore, and that's good. However - the cluch pedal, though it seems to have the right travel before engaging, has a notchy feeling about 3 inches from the floor. The truck begins to move, but, even with a stomping, or a firm foot on the gas, won't completely take off in gear until there's a loud "THUD!", and the clutch pedal is fully released. Most noticable in 1st gear, and the truck is a really slow dog in 2nd gear from start. It just seems to be IN/OUT with no smoothness between the two. Okay. I figure it's new, and will smooth out after a while, but ohyes, there's more. Along with a loud "Thud", the wonderful odor of cluch burning is pronounced, and not what I need right now. I only drove it home, about 15 miles from the shop, and smelled this twice. I'm 54, and have been driving 40 years. I have NEVER burned a cluch out, "cept the first manual I drove (@14 - my brther's Sunbeam Imp. I "borrowed his keys one morning, and must have kept my foot on the clutch in panic, but that's another story... Sooo, I don't burn clutches, and have owned about 40 cars with sticks... I went back to the shop because they hadn't given me my towing rebate coupon (see???), and they assured me the thud, smell will go away in a few days... when I got home, I saw that the license plate is gone from the back, so I had to talk to cops, and I'll call the shop and ask about that and the clutch, but need input/experiences... A burning smell is NOT normal to me, and I don't want the truck in another shop, but this isn't right... THANKS!! :+)

They also said the pattern is a typical 1-2-3-4, with reverse down and to the right.... Has anyone heard of a T4 tranny? I think it's not adjusted right ??? I may have to get a real trans. shop look at it>>>

ANY help greatly appreciated!

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com <emails welcome>

thanks, K.

Reply to
kundalini
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I believe I warned you last summer/fall about p boys....I'd guess someone there wanted your transmission. Look on the safety compliance sticker and post what the letter code is for the 'trans' (A,B,or F)...each of those letters represent a different 4-sp trans. I'll be able to tell you what the '82 truck came with anyway.

Dave S(Texas)

Reply to
putt

The 82 came with a NP435 which was a VERY durable tranny abd still sought after today because of its granny gear and bulletproof design. You got the short end of the stick in this exchange because thought you got a smoother shifting tranny with shorter throws, it a a weaker design and lack a deep granny gear and deep second gear and together with you tall rear axle (likely a 3.08) it is a poor combo. Ford used the NP435 with that combo to give it good starting power with a low RPM cruise from tall rear axle. THe NP435 is stout enough to be used in a 2 1/2 ton truck! I would make a attempt to get your NP435 back as it is worth more than the tranny you have now and these guys have got to be real shady if they told you that you needed a new tranny but did not even replace it with same type unit. Because of this, you do have legal grounds to use if need be. It is quite possible that they convinced you that you needed a new tranny because they wanted the NP435 for some other purpose and used your truck as a "donor" for someone elses.

----------------- The SnoMan

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Reply to
SnoMan

OHMAN! I am so glad you guys are here....seriously....I'm going to call them and demand my old parts back (I bet theu're gone), but what's worrying me is this clunky clutch action. I don't want to burn the new clutch....please stick around...and if I don't always say thanks, well do thank ya....

Reply to
kundalini

Your NP435 transmission probably did not need to be replaced. It is perhaps the strongest transmission ever made, and unless you ran it completely dry for a very long time, it could need some minor repairs at worst.

I have this trans in my Jeep -- it came from a '64 3/4 ton Ford donor -- and managed to drag the Jeep behind my motorhome with the transfer case selector in the wrong position. I destroyed the synchros in the trans, and the complete rebuild kit cost a whopping $85.

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

While you are accustomed to starting in 2nd with the old trans, you may not be able to do this with the new one. The new trans has higher gear ratios. This does not address the THUD, though.

The burning smell doesn't sound normal to me either. I think you have cause for concern.

Yes. The T4 is the replacement for the NP435 that you had taken out. Having said that, my NP435 has R to the right and back. Since this seems to be an odd pattern to you, you may not have had the 435 ...

Reply to
Jeff Strickland

On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 10:17:33 -0700, "Jeff Strickland"

It is one tuff tranny but I would put a GM SM 465 a bit above it and the old GM SM 420 with a 7.05 to 1 unsynconized granny gear and used until the mid 60's was about as tuff as they came in that class. THey are about worth their weight in gold if you have a good one. A NP435 in good shape can easily fetch 400 to 500 bucks and more used if it is for a 4x4 (different output shaft on 4x4 version) with 2wd version running a bit less. THey are getting harder to find in bone yards and will likely cost even more with time.

----------------- The SnoMan

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Reply to
SnoMan

This may be from slip yoke binding in rear driveshaft

No surprize here. his "new" tranny has a lot taller gears so he has to work the clutch more driving it. Either get the 435 back or install a step deepr rear axle ratio to make the truck easier to launch as the T4 lacka granny gear and deep secong to use with current tall rear axle ratio.

----------------- The SnoMan

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Reply to
SnoMan

I don't know if I mentioned this, but the license plate was gone when I picked the truck up. I made out a police report, and told them I suspected PepBoys. They make me sick! Also, the master cylinder gasket is gone, and I KNOW I didn't remove it (???)...these are easily found at Autozone. I can't take it to a real tranny shop until I get a plate tomorrow... I did call "them" and they said my old tranny is sittin' outside right now - so I will get it...btw, reverse is to the right and back, old and new transmissions... it's NICE as far as weather in GA right now, so I'll post the findings when I get answers. Man, they did so many crappy things, like cutting a hole in my rubber mat around the shifter, telling me I'd get a $200 discount when I picked it up "for my wait". I had to argue for $100. The rebate coupon doesn't even list this kind of work for a towing rebate ($60)... I ripped out the charcoal cannister and tossed it, and also the plastic radiator reservoir...getting the cat. converter replaced with one a friend gave me - I'd like to run a straight pipe directly to the muffler.... the smell was probably ME trying to get a smooth shift... the clunk CAN'T be okay - never heard of it and there are LOTS of later model F-150's around....has anyone ever gotten an ac compressor etc. from a junkyard and replaced a frozen one?

Reply to
kundalini

Removing the charcoal cannister was a bad move and it should be re-installed.

Don't waste anymore money by getting AC parts from a junk yard. If you want to have the AC system operable, the orfice tube/accumulator must be replaced with new parts. The compressor can be replaced with a rebuilt unit. Your system used R12 as the refrigerant. Today you need to use R134a and most rebuilt compresssors are able to use either. R12 is not made anymore and the price these days is astronomical.....so R134a is what has to be used. This conversion should be done by someone who_knows_what they are doing. It takes AC knowledge to do it right and to have it last. Of course you can still use the 2-60 ac system, it always works.

Dave S(Texas)

Reply to
putt

On the A/C conversion, I would use R134 as a last resort as it operates at a higher pressure and has about 15% less cooling capacity per pound than R12 too. There are some after market substitues that are better suited for it. Beside R134 is quite poisionous too in native state but Dupont has too much clout and keeps this quiet and it is also not compatable with R12 oil so a different oil has to be mixed in to make it compatable which can result in a oil overcharge and reduced cooling if not done properly. I do agrree on getting a rebuilt compressor though and replacing the orafice tube and the accumulator dryer too.

----------------- The SnoMan

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Reply to
SnoMan

I'm guessing the 2 - 60 system is open the windows at 60 mph....this is a $1000 truck, or it used to be! How much weight do I lose if I toss the ac completely? With the 1 barrel carb, I'm looking for ANY way to save weight - this truck is a casual performer when it comes to speed :+) I know - if speed is the objective, then I shouldn't be driving it. I'm okay with a top speed of 70 mph (sometimes/downhill), but I like simplicity and I'm cheap; even GA summers don't bother me... when I "kick the bucket" I told my wife to put a $1000 sign on it (target market doesn't care about ac), so I'm not going to talk 351W's etc. Now, when I drive to the courthouse (w/o plate), I'll wonder howw many old- truck drivers I see have such knowledge and extensive vocabularies <sp?> :+)

Reply to
kundalini

Depends on how much you sweat! :)

Reply to
IYM

Exactly right and you have the advantage of regulating 'blower speed' because of the wing-windows. A very reliable system!

Do a compression check or(even better) an air-leak test. That engine should do 100mph...no problem. Mine does....smooth as my Caddy! Well, my '81 F100 has 4-sp w/OD.

Might give that R12 substute a try! I've not used it so, no experience. I've done a couple of R12/R134a conversions. I do them correctly and the AC performance of them has been great in our 100°+ summers here in Texas(42° register temps)

Dave S(Texas)

Reply to
putt

Alright, the ac stays in and I'll pursue that fix down the road. I can't imagine ANY '82 inline 6 doing 100 mph! Mechanics have done compression tests and say "it's okay". Another reason to do your own wrenching. I'm going back to smaller tires;

235/75R15 instead of the massive 31's, and letsee, 215-15 for the spare

- I hope I remembered those correctly...

today at the Piggly Wiggly :+) I either flooded it or the choke stuck. It took a minute and straining to get all the cylinders going, accompanied by a small cloud of black smoke...the carb is about a year old but maybe too dirty....I put some gas treatment in, but any experiences with Techron gas treatment or Marvel Mystery Oil? okay - everybody move to Atlanta and move next door!

Reply to
kundalini

Alright, the ac stays in and I'll pursue that fix down the road. I can't imagine ANY '82 inline 6 doing 100 mph! Mechanics have done compression tests and say "it's okay". Another reason to do your own wrenching. I'm going back to smaller tires;

235/75R15 instead of the massive 31's, and letsee, 215-15 for the spare

- I hope I remembered those correctly...

today at the Piggly Wiggly :+) I either flooded it or the choke stuck. It took a minute and straining to get all the cylinders going, accompanied by a small cloud of black smoke...the carb is about a year old but maybe too dirty....I put some gas treatment in, but any experiences with Techron gas treatment or Marvel Mystery Oil? okay - everybody move to Atlanta and move next door!

Reply to
kundalini

The massive tires may be part of the 'slow' problem. The 215-15 is the only size that will fit in the carrier....I found that out the hard way....lol

If the electrical-assist is hooked up on the choke, disconnect it and tape off the wire terminal. You don't really need the mechanical part of the choke either...that can be tied open.

I suspect the gear-ratio in my truck is higher than yours. You had the 'granny' gear trans and that must have had a lower-geared differential. Look on the door sticker and tell the 2-number axle code....I can tell you the ratio, if you're interested. My axle ratio is 2.47(axle code

07)

Dave S(Texas)

Reply to
putt

Fords of that era and a NP435 shipped with a 3.08 rear axle ratio standard.

----------------- The SnoMan

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Reply to
SnoMan

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