New Engine or Sell Truck?

Paid for free and clear truck with no rust in great shape except for tired engine.

MMM replace egine for about $1,500 (incedentals like gaskets, new motor mounts, belts and hoses, oil, coolant etc) vs 3-6 years of truck payments. If you managed the mustangs, you will manage the truck. Its the same nut and bolt job. digi camera take lots of images taking it apart. Get lots of small paper bags, as you remove bolts put them in bag and label. Use masking tape to label wires are they are removed.

Whitelightning

When have the catalytic converters been replaced? Oxygen sensors? Both have a limited life expectancy for optimum operation and could be contributors to your low fuel economy. Don't forget to freshen that up if you do the block as well. Or do the oxy sensors first and see if anything improves.

I agree, do a compression test before you consider anything else. Since oil consumption is good the worst case senario you are looking at is maybe a valve job. BTW, those engine where never know for good MPG and how you drive and size and type of tires on it plays a roll in MPG. Tire pressure is a factor too. Try running 50 PSI or more in tires. It will not help ride but it can help MPG. ALso when you look around for new rubber for it a smooth fairly solid tread is better for MPG than a aggressive one if MPG is important to you.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

All the replies you've had so far have been good, but I just wanted to toss out one more possibility. With that number of miles on a 5.8, I'll bet the timing chain and gears are pretty stretched/worn. I definitely think you're jumping the gun by considering engine replacement if you're not burning oil and you have decent oil pressure.

What do you guys think?

CJB

I'll take it off your hands for twice what you paid.

OK, 3X, but that's my final offer.

The coverter is still original, the oxy sensor was replaced for the first time at around 200k. The check engine light came on, I had it scanned and it came up w/a bad sensor. I replaced it and that took care of the light. I have been the only driver of this truck and for most of its life its gotten a steady 15-16 mpg. By the way, I just rebuilt the front brake calipers as I thought they might be sticking. No change in power or mileage. Does anyone know if there is a test the check the converter for blockage? My thoughts are that with 225k on it, it might just be time to replace it anyway, even though the truck passed state emissions this years with no problems. Jay

The "officail" test is to remove O2 ensor and install a pressure gauge in its plus and measure back pressure. A crude test is to hok up a vacum gauge and rev engine to about 3 to 4000 RPM and read vacum. If it is low or slowly drops at a constant speed/throttle setting, the CAT is plugged up

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Completly forgot about that , good call CJB, fords are really bad about stretching chains and Ford used to recommend replacing them at 50,000 miles back in the 70's Dont know if they still do or not. I've seen chains with so much slack you could put a pencil in the loop that hung off the crank gear. Never understood why they didnt jump time. and with todays computerized systems, the computer will compensate for the errotic ignition timing, but not the late cam timing.

Whitelightning

You know the history of the current engine and it sounds good. Instead of replacing the one you know, pull it, strip it to a long block and send it to a good engine rebuilder. You will have to wait a few weeks, but that gives you time to get all the other parts cleaned and repainted.

I did a simular job to my 77 Jeep Cherokee. Trouble was as I was cleaning things up, I found many warn parts. (just about everything in the engine compartment)So I had plenty to do while the engine was away. When it came back, I had everything back from the dip tank and painted, new hoses, belts and spark wires, rebuid just about everything else. Spend another week of spare hours putting it all back together. Spent 1800 on the engine, (got a few extra services done like balancing and a nicer cam) I think the whole engine compartment rebuilt came to about 2500.

Was worth it.

Good luck.

I think everybody has given you good advice, but I'd just add that it's okay to consider the financial aspect of it. If you can seriously improve it, let's say it costs you $1000 and your empty, highway mileage improves from

(X/10 - X/14)*$3 = $1000. or $3*X*(1/10-1/14) = $1000. I make the math to be 11,000 miles.

See if you agree that you'd save $1000 on gas in that distance if you're getting 10 mpg vs. 14 mpg.

Everyone has brought up a lot of good, sensible points. I think that where I'm at now I'm going to check the converter first, then the compression, oil pressure, etc. in that order. I'll be sure to post my findings here, and thanks again to everyone who helped with the ideas! You're a great group and super-helpful! Jay