Had to do a rear brake change and noticed lube on emergency brake on one side. The lube was obvious Rear end lube so the seal is gone. No problem in doing the job just worried about pulling the axle out and what possible problems. 2003, 150, 2 wheel drive, posi track. Any help?
The one bolt in diff, that you need to remove in order to pull the axles should not be re-used. ( atleast in the older ones ) - torque was in inch pounds for this bolt - I replaced both wheels axle seals while I was there , a bit more work at the time you're doing one but figured it would save time in the long run.
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be very careful removing that bolt, it breaks easy. It leaves the non-threaded portion in place that actualy retains the cross shaft pin, about two and half inches long extendeing through the cross shaft pin and into the other side of the carrier housing. for some reason the manufacturer felt the need to use a lock tight solution on the the pin. I usually heat the carrier housing and the end of the cross shaft pin before trying to remove the bolt. If the bolt breaks use a
6 inch two arm gear puller and press the cross shaft pin out.The direction you push is important, push it from the bolt side. You will have to tighten the press and smack it with a hammer and repaet untill the retain bolts remains snap. If you press it the wrong way you will break a chunk out of carrier housing where the pin goes into it to the left of the cross shaft pin. The bolt goes in from the right side. sometimes this damages the cross shaft pin, if so replace it, they dont cost that much, the dealer usually stocks them as does any shop that does axle work, ie over hauls diffs. If the press method makes you nervous and you have access to a dremel, you can grind the end of the cross shaft pin freeing it from the retaining bolt and then just push it out enough to remove the remains of the retaining bolt with a pair of needle nose pliers. But this means you really have to clean the diff out really good of any metal shavings from the grinding operation also examine the axle shafts closely when you pull them in the bearing area. Any sign of burling, burning, or pitting replace the shafts and the outer axle bearings. Do not use the axle saver bearings available that move where the bearing rides on the axle shaft. The rollers bearings are smaller and it never ever lasts ever. And yes by all means replace both seals, they are cheap.Pack the bearing cavity and bearings with a good high quality grease, and the areas between the bearing and the seal, it will take a while for gear lube to migrate down the axle tubes. Lube the axle shaft bearing and seal area as well. Also make sure the axle vent is free, pressure build up can blow the axle seals as well. Make sure you use the correct lube for the axle when you fill it. If there is one area ford used to really do better than GM light trucks it was the old design of a bearing pressed on the axle shaft Ford used to use. This new design that ford uses is the same as GM and dodge and its weak in my opinion.Whitelightning
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