have 2001 excursion w/shift on the fly, shifted to 4 wheel low to get trailer out of a rut. once free turned switch to 2 wheel high nothing happened 4 wheel low light still lit and truck is still in 4 wheel low. anybody ideas what's goin' on ?
On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 04:28:26 +0000, Bob Statkus rearranged some electrons to form:
Sounds like the motor that shifts the transfer case isn't working. You should get under it and see if there's a connector hanging loose, or something like that.
PS you shouldn't drive it in 4L on dry pavement. That will break more stuff.
The wonders or "push the button and pray" 4x4 drive control. It seems to always fail at the wrong time.
----------------- TheSnoMan.com
Some have mentioned that you may have to back up a few feet after selecting 4L to get it to disengage.
The problem is that you don't know that it is broken until you need it. That's why I only get manual. However I think the Excursion only comes Auto.
Did you know that you need to put it in neutral in order to get out of
4L? You didn't mention it, so...Donut
Yes, I would not own a 4x4 that does not have a manual shift for it. They are getting harder to find on all brands these days as they try to make them more of a no brainer to use to promote sales of 4x4's
----------------- TheSnoMan.com
At the risk of asking a stupid question, you shifted to Neutral before pressing the button, right?
The engine must be running and the transmission must be in Neutral before the tcase will shift out of LO Range.
Shift to neutral, lock down emergency/park brake, foot on brake pedal, turn switch.
Works every time in mine.
Spdloader
Actually if you are unfortunate enough to have push and pray 4x4 coasting at a few MPH in neutral is the way your are "supposed" to do it. It helps to if you are in gravel or grass to relieve torque bind that may be present too.
----------------- TheSnoMan.com
Going in Reverse also releives the stress that binds the works. That's why it is suggested to back up a few feet. As a practical matter, selecting Neutral before shifting out of LO Range should remove the stress that is binding the system too, and the Part Time 4WD system should never be used on pavement.
Having said all of that, I'm not certain of any benefit Spdloader might get by setting the parking brake and applying the service brakes. On a hill, these systems may offer the benefit of holding the vehicle in place, but there is nothing that connects the brake system to the 4WD button or lever.
True about going into reverse sometimes and while neutral can relieve stress from engine is does nothing for the torque bind that can form between axles on a hard surface.
I concur because if you coast in neatral it removes drive line input stress and when gear moving slowly too it is easier to change ranges sometimes. BTW, even in neutral some power goes through tranny and it is enough to spin the input gear in Tcase and make engagement noisy is vehicle is not rolling some too. I do use the stand still method most of the time with my trucks (coast to stop in neutral and then aplly and hold brake and place in park to shirt) but they are manual shift too and you can "feel" what is going on if there is a problem.
----------------- TheSnoMan.com
I do it this way because it's the factory instructions in the manual, and on the underside of the sunvisor in my '99 F350 SuperCrew Dually 4x4. It has taken as long a 45 seconds to unlock.
.....and it always works. .....so far.
Spdloader
Spdloader is right. Superduty's require all this to shift into and out of
4lo.
If it takes 45 seconds it is because something is in a bind and you need to change methods regardless of what manual says. Manual is written to keep "instructions" it as simple as possibly and nothing more.
----------------- TheSnoMan.com
God for bid the designers might know what they are talking about. And I guarantee they are written more to make sure the damn thing makes it out of warranty then to keep them as simple as possible.
Whitelightning
Or it's because that's the design parameters for the 4wd system. The FSM states that the electronic system will make at least five shift attempts (assuming the truck is in the right configuration to shift from 4lo) before it throws an error code. And it won't throw a code for a bad hub, only a transfer case problem. FSM says to give it twenty seconds, though, 45 sounds excessive. Mine's never taken more than 3-5 seconds for the T case to shift, although I have had problems in the past with the vacuum-operated autolock hubs.
FSM says to give it twenty seconds, though, 45 sounds
Conditions, northern West Virginia, 3+ weeks of single to low double digit weather, and ice / snow caked on the underside of truck.
Normally, it happens within 5-10 seconds.
Spdloader
thanks for the ideas for the fix guys - I did try the shift in neutral, I never had to wait longer than 3 to 5 seconds in the past for it to shift but I'll try a long wait to see if it works. I going under the truck today and check wiring, connectors, and motor next. I also wish it had the manual shift T case but I don't think you could get it , maybe special ordered new but I'm second owner.
Do you think the auto hubs that are on the truck now would work w/a manual T case retro fit?
No, the electronic gizmos that tell the Tcase to shift also tell the hubs to lock/unlock with vacuum. If you go with a retrofit (which may involve replacing the T case with a manual one) you'd do well to replace the hubs anyway with some manual hub locks (I would recommend Warn). You can do that even with an electronic shift T case too...
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