V-10 triton bad #6

what follows is general information, not all will apply to your V10. Wet test (where they added oil) indicates cylinder/ring problem if compression increases, or a valve problem if it does not increase.I would then do a vacuum' test and look for a fluctuating needle, which would indicate a valve issue Rings, scored cylinder walls and pistons with holes burnt in them result in oil consumption problems, excessive blow by, and power loss. Valve problem depending on valve train style could be : burnt valve, worn cam shaft lobes, broken valve spring, collapsed lifter. Removing valve cover can allow inspection of valve springs and rocker arms. Valve movement can be watched and compared to others visually for lift and duration(its not exact, but if you see one isn't moving near as much as all the others) with the valve cover off the engine can be brought up to TDC ensuring all valves on cylinder in question are closed and a fitting can be installed in place of the spark plug, the cylinder pressurized with about 80psi. Then one can listen at the tail pipe and at the throttle for escaping air, again an indicator of a burnt valve, or something not allowing the valve to seat all the way when closed.

Whitelightning

Thanks for the info. It looks like it is valve related and only on one cylinder. Is my only option to have the heads removed and a valve work done? Is there anything that can be done without removing the heads? I don't think it is worth $3000.00-$6000.00 to have it done and I think my only other option is to junk the thing. If it passed smog I wouldn't worry about it because you can't really tell there is a problem when you drive it. But the HC's are 600 plus and the limit was

150. And with the price of gas and the mpg at 7 it sure is not a motovating factor to get it repaired. Any parting advice or thought before I drive it to the junk yard? Thanks again

If it is a burnt valve, no. If its sticking valve, or if the valve return spring is broke, or if its rocker related then yes it might be possible to fix with out removing the head. If the cam lobe is worn it may be possible to repair with out removing the head. Is this an F series or E series truck? The fuel mileage is a little low, not much, but these days every bit helps for a vehicle that size. High cube vans are boxes through the wind, and if you run loaded most of the time, even a diesel isn't going to do much better. Aero bubble on the front of the box if it doesn't extend over the cab will help as will fairings to make the transition between the cab sides and box front smooth. another option is a "spoiler" on the cab roof such as you see fifth wheel RVers use for a smoother transition over the camper. A light foot is imperative as well as patience. You may be surprised how much is saved slowing down 5 mph.

Whitelightning

Sounds like a burnt valve which I am seeing more of in some HD engines. THe problem stems from the fuel. Let me explain. 87 octane wants to knock a lot in that motor at times so the ECM controllls it by retatrding the spark which raises exhaust temps and shortens valve life (if you have on burnt valve now, you have a few others thinking about it) ALso when a engine starts to knock (even if you cannot hear it) it does two things, it creates a hot spot near vlave and it cause valve to vibrate in seat and leak and start the errosion process that leads to a burnt valve long term. (Dodge V10's are bad about this too). As to how to get it past E-check, add a lot of alchol to fuel (dry gas or the like) as this adds oxygen to fuel and will reduce hydrocarbon consetration. Also use 93 octan for test because it will allow more spark advance to better burn HC's as well. Do this and you should get by test while debating what to do long term.

----------------- The SnoMan

Thanks everyone for the help. I am still holding out a little hope. I think it is a E series. It was a Club Wagon before it turned into a big box. Everyone said the V-10 was a great engine and with only

60,000 miles when I bought it I thought I wouldn't have to worry about the engine which might make up for the bad milage. And if you have seen these things you can barely get your hand close to the engine when you open the hood. It is packed in there like a sardine. It is windy around here so if I ever get it to pass I will look into some kind of wind shield for the front. The HC's were over 1200 ppm but after putting a bunch of stuff in the gas and oil like "Guarentee to pass smog" and Reslon and some other over priced stuff it brought it down to 800ppm. The limit is 150ppm. That is a still a long way to go. I rarely drive this thing. Once a month if that. Someone said a carbon build up may cause this problem because it sits allot and that there is some kind of way to burn the carbon off?? I wish I had known about using higher octane. I would have been doing that. I don't know much about this stuff but where do I find dry gas? And, is there a cheap machine I can buy that will tell me my HC level so I can check the HC's before getting special permits to drive it to the smog place? One last thing, I know this may be sneaky and I probably won't ever do it but what if I ran a line into the exhause pipe that was tied to a tank of compressed air. Would that dilute the tail pipe enough to reduce the HC's. Forgive me if I stepped over a line but I sunk everything I had into this truck and without it I can't run my business. And I am still paying for it and don't have enough for the repairs. Thanks again.