02 Impala battery drain

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Ok...for those interested.....HRL.....you were right on the money. I didn't leave the meter hooked up long enough. I checked with my neighbor again.
After about 20 seconds or so, the initial current of 1.2A settles down to about 48mA or so. I started pulling fuses in my car and found that it drops to about 450mA when I pull out the radio fuse, but not to about 48mA like my neighbor's car. There's a lot of prgramming that must be done through the radio to personalize settings for the convenience equipment (courtesy lights, locks, etc) so is it possible that something else is waiting for a signal from the radio before the current drops...and since the fuse for the radio is now pulled, the radio can't give that signal?? Am I stretching it at this point....or do I possibly have more than one problem?? No other fuses pulled provides any other drop in current.
TR

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That is still too much current. I didn't expect the radio to make that kind of change. You might be right that something in the program is causing the extra current. Does that radio have the anti-theft protection (a flashing LED when stopped)? However, I don't know how that could affect it.
Wonder if the alternator/regulator could be causing it. I would try pulling the plug into the alternator and see if that might change the current. Do you read about 14 volts at the battery when the engine is running? Fully charged battery should read 12.6 after it has been sitting for a long time.

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Another question. Are you sure you got to all the fuses. I think there is a pretty big box under the hood

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There is a fuse under the hood for the L/H Instrument panel which, when pulled, results in the same current draw, 48mA like my neighbor's car. Other than tearing open the L/H instrument panel to find it, at first glance, the radio fuse has the biggest effect. I need to dig up some diagrams somewhere for this car.

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Agreed!
Refinish King

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GM has published that any key off draw exceeding 50 milliamperes is excessive.
Do both cars have all doors closed and key off or out of ignition?
Did the car salesperson that sold you your car fail to mention you were buying a unofficial test car?

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It looks like you just answered your question. 11.8 volts after running the car is too low. It should be in the high 13 or low 14 volt range. Check the voltage with the car running and it should be around 14.5 volts. Turn the headlights on and it should stay around there. You have either a bad battery or bad charging system. Take it to a shop and get it load tested. They can tell you in a few minutes if they are bad....

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Which was going to be my next suggestion:
Also, look for bad grounds from the block, to the frame, and the block to the body!
Refinish King

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I just went out and tried measuring the current on an '03 Chevy. When I first hooked up the meter the current jumped up to about the 1.2 amperes. After about 20 seconds or more it dropped down to below 80 ma.
If I had been real careful to get the meter hooked up before breaking the connection to the battery it would have never gotten to above 1 ampere.

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I bought an Olds that had a similar problem of running the batt. down over night. The previous owner had 2 shops look at the car and they couldn't find the problem. He put on a batt. disconnect to stop the run down over night. The car ran fine which is why I bought it.
I got a factory shop manual off ebay to help with the trouble shooting. While studying the problem I heard soft clicking from the engine after I had started it and shut it off. The idle air controler was cycling on and off. It wouldn't do it after the batt. had been disconnected and reconnected, only after the engine was run and shut off with the batt. connected. From the shop manual I found out the ECM controls the idle air controler. I got an ECM from the junk yard for $30.00 and it has been fine since. It was a bad ECM that made a ground for the idle air controler when the key was off.

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