I just went out and tried measuring the current on an '03 Chevy. When I first hooked up the meter the current jumped up to about the 1.2 amperes. After about 20 seconds or more it dropped down to below 80 ma.
If I had been real careful to get the meter hooked up before breaking the connection to the battery it would have never gotten to above 1 ampere.
Have you ever heard of Flat Rate?
Do you drive a Hyundai?
Does your Fred Flintstone car have a windup rubber band engine?
Are you the reincarnation of Sam Kinnison?
If you are, you suck and go back to being dead. You were funnier before.
A two hour flat rate to locate a bad fuse?
It's so easy to start a diagnosis at the fuses, even an idiot like you could do it. in .10. I'm sure you can, I have faith in you moron!
Refinish King
PS I've seen many of Huyndaitech's posts, he answers a lot of GM posts, so he most likely works for a multi franchise store. He has answered more technical questions than I've seen a lot of so called techs here answer. I'm sure you couldn't wipe his ass in acumen!
Ok...for those interested.....HRL.....you were right on the money. I didn't leave the meter hooked up long enough. I checked with my neighbor again. After about 20 seconds or so, the initial current of 1.2A settles down to about 48mA or so. I started pulling fuses in my car and found that it drops to about 450mA when I pull out the radio fuse, but not to about 48mA like my neighbor's car. There's a lot of prgramming that must be done through the radio to personalize settings for the convenience equipment (courtesy lights, locks, etc) so is it possible that something else is waiting for a signal from the radio before the current drops...and since the fuse for the radio is now pulled, the radio can't give that signal?? Am I stretching it at this point....or do I possibly have more than one problem?? No other fuses pulled provides any other drop in current.
TR
That is still too much current. I didn't expect the radio to make that kind of change. You might be right that something in the program is causing the extra current. Does that radio have the anti-theft protection (a flashing LED when stopped)? However, I don't know how that could affect it.
Wonder if the alternator/regulator could be causing it. I would try pulling the plug into the alternator and see if that might change the current. Do you read about 14 volts at the battery when the engine is running? Fully charged battery should read 12.6 after it has been sitting for a long time.
Another question. Are you sure you got to all the fuses. I think there is a pretty big box under the hood
accidentally
Sure, but two hours just ridiculous. I can't imagine charging more than .5 hour. Actually, unless there was something I needed to disassemble, I probably wouldn't charge anything at all.
I have to stop it with my feet, too.
There is a fuse under the hood for the L/H Instrument panel which, when pulled, results in the same current draw, 48mA like my neighbor's car. Other than tearing open the L/H instrument panel to find it, at first glance, the radio fuse has the biggest effect. I need to dig up some diagrams somewhere for this car.
troubleshoot
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