1992 Lesabre Wont start

I have a 1992 Buick LeSabre with the 3800. One night it starts fine, drove it in, parked it in garage. Next morning, it wont start. The engine turns over.
Checked for spark, and there is spark. Checked fuel pressure, its about 45lb during cranking, 50lb before cranking. Checked injector power. There is constant power, but I think there is no injector signal to fire. Did the Diagnostic, the old way by jumping connectors in the diagnostic port, and got code 58 (as I remember). Look up in the book, it says Vehicle anti-theft system (VATS) problem. Can that be the cause, the key is worn or something. I thought if the VATS is faulty, the car wont even turnover and no fuel pressure. I tried changing the DIS ignition module. It started up, but then I shut it off, and same problem again, wont start. I suspect its the ECM. Could it be that a bad ECM throws out bad codes. Has anyone have this kinda problem. I tried to check all the wiring, but this damn thing is hard to get too. I checked all the fuses, they are all ok, even the ones on the passenger side. Your help or opinion is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Tin
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ka0t1c07 wrote:

in, parked it in garage. Next morning, it wont start. The engine turns over. Checked for spark, and there is spark. Checked fuel pressure, its about 45lb during cranking, 50lb before cranking. Checked injector power. There is constant power, but I think there is no injector signal to fire. Did the Diagnostic, the old way by jumping connectors in the diagnostic port, and got code 58 (as I remember). Look up in the book, it says Vehicle anti-theft system (VATS) problem. Can that be the cause, the key is worn or something. I thought if the VATS is faulty, the car wont even turnover and no fuel pressure. I tried changing the DIS ignition module. It started up, but then I shut it off, and same problem again, wont start. I suspect its the ECM. Could it be that a bad ECM throws out bad codes. Has anyone have this kinda problem. I tried to check all the wiring, but this damn thing is hard to get too. I checked all

Bad crank sensor.
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 Paul  wrote:

in, parked it in garage. Next morning, it wont start. The engine turns over. Checked for spark, and there is spark. Checked fuel pressure, its about 45lb during cranking, 50lb before cranking. Checked injector power. There is constant power, but I think there is no injector signal to fire. Did the Diagnostic, the old way by jumping connectors in the diagnostic port, and got code 58 (as I remember). Look up in the book, it says Vehicle anti-theft system (VATS) problem. Can that be the cause, the key is worn or something. I thought if the VATS is faulty, the car wont even turnover and no fuel pressure. I tried changing the DIS ignition module. It started up, but then I shut it off, and same problem again, wont start. I suspect its the ECM. Could it be that a bad ECM throws out bad codes. Has anyone have this kinda problem. I tried to check all the wiring, but this damn thing is hard to get too. I checked all

Same deal on my car - effectively the distributor system is firing randomly. That it generates no bad codes(or some minor nonsense) is a prime indicator of a physically bad sensor somewhere in the engine.
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Its not a bad crank sensor. Till today, I tried replaceing the ECM with a reman unit, crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition module, check the wire harness for grounded wiring (common problem in GM cars), but still wont start. Code 58 says its the Vehicle Anti Theft System. I think that is what causing the car to not start. Is there a way to bypass the VATS?
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if it's cranking, then someone may have hotwired the crank relay to try and bypass it... measure the resistance of the little "pellet" in the ignition key ..... from one side to the other... Now go buy a resistor the same as what you measured... wattage doesn't matter... you gotta be within 50 or so ohms.... remote start companys sell then in a pack if you have trouble as radio shack doesn't carry a lot of variety anymore.... now go under the dash and look for the little orange wire coming from the column not the SIR yellow one.. this orange wire is actually 2 wires inside... simply follow to the plug.. cut and splice the resistor into the harness leaving the wires from the column dangling free you want to simulate the resistance of the key as if it was in the ignition... The passkey system is now bypassed... you may have to wait a little bit(4 to 15) minutes depending on how long it has been since it has failed but it should start... oh ya ... is the security light flashing with the key in the on position??? it should be to be in fail mode.... Bobo

harness for grounded wiring (common problem in GM cars), but still wont start. Code 58 says its the Vehicle Anti Theft System. I think that is what causing the car to not start. Is there a way to bypass the VATS?

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Bobo wrote:

Yes, if the Security light is flashing with the key in the On position, then that is a sign that the system "sees" the correct key, but it does not "see" the correct pellet code. What could cause that? Well, the pellet could have become defective on the key (I had one like that). The contacts in the key switch that "see" the pellet code could be bad. The system could be hosed up deeper than that.
I had a key with the pellet, and the resistance value suddenly shifted by two notches! The GM parts guy had never seen one like that.
---Bob Gross---
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I have seen that before... all it is is a resistor... no magic here folks... I just fixed my tv because of one 25 cent resistor....I don't know if you have seen this before, but a lot of parts guys haven't seen anything before.... lol

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Bobo wrote:

That's correct. It is a chip resistor on the key. Theoretically, it should not be able to change its resistance value (but I had one to disprove that). It can go open, and if it got very dirty or wet, it could go shorted. They don't go bad very often, but when they do, they are toast.
---Bob Gross---
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