Subject
- Posted on
2.2 GM rebuilding
- 04-04-2008
April 4, 2008, 2:46 am
I am debating what to do with my 96 S10 2.2.
Truck is still running fine. but the oil pressure drops to
near zero after it warms up at idle. and when its cold, the
piston slap clatters like a diesel. (yes, i changed the oil pressure sensor)
From what i researched, the cam bearings are a common culprit for
low oil pressure. this truck did have the head gasket replaced before
i got it, and the head redone after i got it due to the timing chain
slipping ad bending all 8 valves.
i am trying to do this myself of with assistance.
questions:
what type of tool is required to remove and install cam bearings on
a 2.2? is it the same as a small block tool?
Its not burning any oil to speak of (leaks a little and does not smoke)
what to do with the bores? simply hone and replace rings?
or bore how much? 10 over with new pistons (assuming minimal scuffing
from piston slap. Are there any new types of pistons that minimize
piston slap?
If the crank journals look ok, do i really need to get the crank
ground?
I was possibly looking at getting front drive core to start work on
to speed the process up and not lose the truck for driving.
Any issues with using a front drive 2.2 other than the water hole
in the head? I assume too from research it must be a 96-98 engine
to be the same? do automatic or stick have different cams or flywheel
mounts?
The head was just redone less than a year ago. can i just clean it
and reinstall? or do i need to have it decked again?
The only other thought i had was there was a higher volume oil pump for
the early 90's 2.2. i considered putting just a new hi-po pump in as
a stop gap, but wondered if it would do much good.
Any other 2.2 tips?
Bob
Re: 2.2 GM rebuilding
Ian is a good source for information on this engine. I remember him posting
a long
time ago about the provisions their shop made for working on this very
engine.
Since no one has posted at all, I am entering the fray, since any opinion at
all will
sometimes generate a flood of positive and negative comments.
I have always been of the belief that you either rebuild to last or you
patch.
If you measure the journals and they are not too out of round or worn, then
I
think you can probably avoid regrinding the crankshaft.
Ditto the cylinders...They are, IIRC, cast iron sleeves pressed into this
block. If
they are not egged or overly worn, you can probably get by with honing to
restore
the surface. ---If your pistons are not trashed. Maybe this will work if you
are on a tight
budget and dont want to have to bore and refit new pistons. A lot depends on
the
condition of the pistons, bores, etc.
I have no idea about the camshaft insert tool. Some of those, for different
engines,
can handle a rather wide variety of bearings and configurations. Maybe
others will
answer specifically about this little block. An automotive machine shop
will ordinarily
be able to do this for you cheaply enough if you dont have the tool.
Worn inserts are a common reason that oil pressure drops. A bad oil pump
and or
pressure regulator can be another reason. Leaking block plugs have been a
problem on
some other types of block, so I would certainly inspect this block to see if
that could
possibly be a problem. And I wouldnt tear one down without replacing the
oil pump.
I dont think I would go back in with a higher volume oil pump. If you
tighten up the
specs and put in a new standard pump, the oil pressure should be fine.
Some may disagree with me, but I think the most of the comments above are
just
common sense. If you want to rebuild, resurface, refit everything, then you
will spend a goodly pile of money. A job well done is the only guarantee
that the engine will work properly
and live. But, on a limited budget you can often hit the high spots and
come up with
something nearly as good.
Re: 2.2 GM rebuilding
your oil pressure problems is a bearing. rod main or cam could be
anyone.
if you get another block i really (from personal experience) advise
using the correct year block to start with.
1996 to 1997 may be the same but im not sure.
DO NOT use a 95 or 98 short block.
the 95 does not use a cam sensor your 96 does.
95 was multi port injected any thing newer was sequential port
injected
a 98 block uses different pistons, head, cam , rocker, pushrods are
longer.
if you use a different year block (not sure a bout a 96-97) you can
use ONLY the block
everything else must be changed ie. pistons, cam, crank, head.
not sure if this is any help, but i am speaking from experience. i
went through 3 motors and alot
of cursing to get it right.
dont do it.
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