The front left turn signal bulb quit yesterday, but today it's
working. It's probably designed to fail temporarily to give you a day
or two to plan the service or buy a new bulb, hahaha.
It's 11 months old, so I called a local Chev dealer and was told "Yes,
it is covered by warranty, but call a day in advance because it's a
I usually do small service things myself because it's less trouble
than taking a vehicle to the dealer for a day.
The nice lady on the phone told me that on some models they have to
remove the bumper to change the bulb.
Can this be true? If so it has to be a new low point on GM automobile
She also suggested, if I do it myself, that I buy a high quality GM
original parts bulb, not a cheap Canadian Tire one, because it is so
much work to change, I'd want one that lasts as long as possible. Like
the one that just failed after 11 months, I presume.
WTF's going on here - is this why GM is in the toilet, or is this just
more dealer service bullshit?
I own a 97 Blazer. Never GM again. Just an example of poor design: To
change the fuel pump is $600 labor. The tank must be drained and
dropped. The pump is $385, last one I had done (180k, on 3rd one
counting the original).
There are many other examples, it would not surprise me at all the
"remove bumper to change bulb" is true.
Thinks like these two examples save pennies or a few dollars at build
time. Then, they make profit for dealers, since most of these repairs
occur out of warranty. So GM is not motiviated to do things in a way
that favor the customer - the current system favors the company and
Another example of great design [not]. The outside mirrors have3
bolts - which are plastic - and shear of the mirror hits an
obstruction or pedestrian. OK, it's a safety deal. Fine.
To replace the mirror - one must remove the entire interior door
panel. There is no access to the back side of the 3 plastic bolts
holding the mirror on.
Now, my old Mazda has one phillips screw, and I can then take a plate
off and get to the mirror fastenor without removing the entire panel.
Same old Mazda, the fuel pump can be changed with only a screwdriver
to remove an access plate.
I gave GM a shot at time of purchase, specifically waving the flag,
not wanting a "foreign" car. What I got was poorly designed crap, and
less than 50% domestic content - so I gave my money to other
countries, anyhow, and got crap in return. I'm considering Fort or
Mazda for my next purchase. Not GM, not at all.
On Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:32:05 -0600, Miller fired up the etcha-a-sketch and
Um, let me guess. You let the fuel tank run down below 1/4 on a regular
(I had a '95 Jimmy, which I ran for 158K miles with never a fuel pump
issue. My current '06 Avalanche is at 65K miles with no fuel pump issues.)
Oh, and a fuel pump is typically located inside a tank. That's pretty
Can't speak for the turn signal.
Here's what twenty seconds on google got me...
I just figured it out. There is a "L" shaped lever on the right top of
the headlight (passenger side turn signal) (reverse left and right if you
are on the driver's side)
1. turn L shaped lever counter clockwise 1/4 turn and then pull it up;
releasing the right side of head light.
2. there is a 10mm bolt on the left top of the headlight that needs
loosened or taken out.
3. swing out head light starting with the right side carefully.
4. signal is just below the headlight opening. 1/4 turn and it pops out.
replace it with a 3157na that is orange in color.
5. reverse process to put it all back together.
The photo links are gone, but the process is almost exactly as
described. Took about 20 minutes because I was gentle on the headlight
assembly. At first I didn't want to use as much force as you really
need to pop it out of its plastic surroundings. Next one shouldn't be
more than 10 minutes. I wonder what the dealer charges GM for a
warranty replacement? Once again a diy job is easier than a trip to
the dealer, and they are only 1 km down the road!
Almost forgot. In addition to the items mentioned, there is a third
point of attachment. The outside middle of the headlight assembly has
a metal ball on a small post that pops in/out of a plastic socket on
the car/frame. This is why it takes a bit more force than expected to
get the rubber seal loose from the plastic surround.
Make sure when replacing the headlight assembly that this ball goes
correctly back into the socket hole, and not off to one side, and pop
it back in firmly. It goes in much easier than it comes out.
I don't know if you realize it or not, but dropping the tank is typical to
replace the fuel pump for the last 20 years or so on damn near everything.
Your blazer should have been easy to do in a dealership, and $600 labor
sounds like a dealer stuck it to you.
That's about a two hour job out of the book.
I changed one in an "87 Dodge Caravan
twice, once in an Autozone parking lot in Salt Lake City while on vacation,
in August no less. Not much fun, but I still bought another Dodge.
I have a 2000 Astro van with 105,000 miles and its still running on the
It was a while ago, but they charged 3 hours labor, fees to dispose of
the 10 gallons that were still in the tank, shop fees, etc. Yeah, a
rip, but at the time of that change, I was 2 weeks out of surgery and
couldn't do it.
The idea of tank drop for pump change sucks, in my view but yeay, most
vehicles are that way.
Another poster asked - it's a 19 gallon tank. In the miles before that
first pump failure, I put in 14 gallons ONE and typicall put in 10
gallons at fill up. So 4.75 gals remaining. So I got close to that ONE
tank ful. That should not have caused pump failure.
Sounds like the dealer took you for a VERY LONG RIDE!!!!!
3 hours labor around here would be about 180 bucks. The gas in the tank
doesn't get "disposed of" it gets pumped into a tank and then put back
in the vehicle when your done. Sounds like they charged YOU so the
dealer could add gas to the lot...
Shop fees would have been about 10 bucks.
VERY few that are not that way. Some of the ones that have "access
panels" take longer to do using the panel than if you just dropped the tank.
The common cause of pump failure is heat. The pump starts to age and
draw more current. The extra current causes the connector to heat up and
fail. That is why the connector comes in most of the kits. If you don't
replace it the pump will likely fail MUCH sooner than it should.
Now on the older vehicles that used the fuel to cool the pump running
the fuel low caused problems. From about 1994 and up the Blazers have a
fuel pump module. It has a well that the pump sits in which fills with
fuel just to keep the pump cool. On those fuel level doesn't matter for
At that price, you need a better shop. Sounds like you need a better parts
supplier also, as the pumps should be lasting a very long time. I just
looked at Advanced Auto and they list the pump for you Blazer at $459. OUCH
Labor shold be closer to $200 though.
I agree - her advice was basically horseshit. From start to finish.
But since it turns out it only takes 10 minutes to change - without
removing any bumpers, hahaha - and it seems you can get a bad bulb
from anyone, with any brand name on it, I decided the most cost
effective solution, given that Can Tire is down the street and across
the road, is just whatever off-the-shelf bulb they have in stock that
fits the part description.
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