'65 Impala SS Update

Well, was tinkering today.. got the 327 running. Has open pipes.. it's pretty loud. Some dumbass put the wires on the cap in the wrong position (each one was
shifted one place clockwise) and that's why it wouldn't run. Also, there was a big vacuum port unplugged at the back of the manifold under the distributor which also contributed to the non-running. When I was setting the points, I noticed that when you turn the rotor backward, the shaft backs out a little... i'm assuming that's a function of wear?
Bad news though... running it for a minute or so, the upper-end started making bad noise... Something that's strange is that there's absolutely *ZERO* trash inside the valve covers and on the valves..it does not look at all like a 39-year-old engine that has not been apart.. I would think the thing would have good oil pressure like that.. it seriously looks like a fresh motor inside there.. and cranks smoothly and has good compression (or so it seems). Is it possible for the dist to turn but the oil pump not? I know you are thinking "why didn't you look at the oil pressure gage?"... well i don't have the key to the car. The prev. owner doesn't know where they are at the moment.. i just ran a lead to the coil and hooked a starter button on the starter... so i don't think the gages would register anyway.
also ... the cooling system became very very pressurized both times i got the car running for any amount of time.. lifted the lever on the rad cap and blasted the master cylinder with water (overflow pipe was missing on the first shot).. In my opinion, much too quick to have that much pressure build in the cooling system.. I am guessing either bad head gasket or cracked head.
Was rather disappointed when i found out the engine ran .. so i didn't bother to do a compression test or pull the plugs this afternoon. I found out that the motor is an "HC" code motor.. In my 1968 Motor repair manual, it just says "327 w/ PG" (powerglide)... but gives no other method to determine which horsepower motor is in the car. There are four 327s listed for 1965 Chevrolet.... 250hp, 300hp, 350hp, and 375hp (fuel injected).
as for the rear springs... I jacked the rear of the car up and the springs are not collapsed, but they have come off the spring seat at the top... i believe on both sides.. is there supposed to be a spring bushing on the top? Is there an easy way to get the spring back into the spot it's supposed to be? I tried putting some coil compressors on there, but i couldn't get it compressed enough to take the tension off the mamma jamma to bop it back into place.
thanks for reading... jeff
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setting
backs
at
not?
starter
and
found
but
springs
to
The distributor will turn as the camshaft drives it. The oil pump is driven from the distributor. The pump could be frozen or the oil pump drive shaft damaged due to the pump locking up, if it did. My guess is a head gasket leak, the original head gaskets on the 327 were steel shims and if the car has been sitting could have rusted the gasket through. I don't have a small block engine ID book handy but if I remember correctly the 327 in that year if it was a 2 barrel was the 250 hp. And the standard 4 barrel was the 300 hp. I won't swear to it but I don't thing the 350 hp was available in the impala. If it was it was probably a 4 speed manual transmission option. And I know the 375 hp wasn't as it was corvette only. Man your making me think back to the day when I started driving, these were the era of cars that I grew up with.
nospam
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driven
I reckon i'll sawr off a slotted screwdriver and chuck it up in the cordless drill and stick down in there to see if i can build oil pressure without running the engine..

Compression test is definitely in order, then. I'll pull the plugs and check that out. The car has been sitting for at least 10 years... Do you think that if someone rebuilt the engine, they could have used the original type of head-gasket? Or did GM do-away with that type of deal and supercede it with something better? I don't know for sure that it's been apart, but i see black RTV pooching out from the intake manifold at the front... and like i said it's clean as a whistle inside the valve cover.. I took apart a 413 dodge motor from a Winnebago (a 72) and everything was caked in sludge.. probably the dirtiest motor i've ever worked on (besides a crosshead diesel)..

correctly
4
was
were
Okay, it has a quadrajet (i guess that's what it is) on it, so I guess It would be the 300hp motor.. it's definitely not the fuel-injected, 375-horse motor although that would have made me cry to open the hood and see that someone put that on the car :o)
The trunk has two small patches in it and a couple small rust holes in the middle.. The frame rails seem to be perfect all the way down the car.. I buffed it out a bit on one side today and it looks a shitload better than before, even though the paint job is still *definitely* a 20 footer.. Shoot, i may just keep this car for myself to add to the collection... get rid of some other crap..
I'd like to ask about the manifolds... they are the ram-horn-shaped type manifolds... should i keep those on there or think about some headers?
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The 327 in 1965 had 4 barrels only with Powerglide, my dad owned one and it had 250 hp. The 300 hp model had larger valves and probably a Carter AFB carburetor. The 250 hp used a Rochester 4GC, quadrajets were introduced the following year. Roy

it's
position
there
the
a
gage?"...
where
anyway.
got
and
i
jamma
driven
correctly
4
was
were
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it
the
ok thanks for that info..
I was just looking at the exploded diagram on this page: http://www.carburetorfactory.com/expvw26.html
The carb that is on the car now is a spread-bore 4-bbl.. The rochester 4g/4gc in that picture does not look like a spread-bore.
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AFB
actually, i have no idea, I take that back. I'll have to look more closely.
there is a picture of the engine on this page: http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2dgdu/impala.html
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started
absolutely
look
like
compression
pump
cap
the
pressure
(powerglide)...
car.
top...
the
i
shaft
were
standard
only.
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But didn't the spread bore first come out in 1966 on all GM models?
Brian

the
shaft
think
i
or
didn't
I
350hp,
it's
but
gasket
hp
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AFB
first
Look at the pictures on the website of the car. Notice that the intake is painted black? Also notice the lack of a oil filler neck on the intake? Then look at the valve covers. They look to be Corvette Aluminum Valve covers off a 68 up Small Block Corvette.
Unless my memory is wrong, all pre-67 small blocks have a oil filler tube at the front on the intake, execpt some Corvettes. Also all Small Blocks untill the mid 70's were painted "Chevy Orange" from the factory, including all non-aluminum intakes.
Using Carburator type to guess HP of that engine is a moot point, as it clearly has had a few minor changes. Charles
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Charles you are correct. Possibly 1967 models may hve still had the oil filler tube, but the carburetor looks like a late Quadrajet to me with the choke coil on the side of the float bowl. Those used originally in the mid 60's had the choke coil in the intake manifold crossover. Roy

and
introduced
it
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Hairy Face, the Quadrajet trade name was developed in the mid 60's. I remember some "quad" name for Oldsmobile carburetors, but the were the forerunners of the 4GC Rochester. Roy

the
shaft
think
i
or
didn't
I
350hp,
it's
but
gasket
hp
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pipes..
Also,
was
not
know
a
times
rad
on
gasket
the
the
on
mamma
these
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Sorry about the name mixup. I usually read these postings from midnight to 1 am, and the eyes and brain are not at peak capacity. Roy

under
looks
oil
hooked
register
missing
afternoon.
bushing
there,
is
drive
327
350
manual
corvette
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setting
backs
at
not?
starter
and
found
but
springs
to
What I would do is to pull that 327 out. Take the heads off, check every thing out. Clean out the oil gallies in the block and heads with gallie cleaning brushes (simmular to rifle bore brushes). If every thing checks out specks wise, drop a new oil pump in it. Re gasket it, and reinstall it.
The springs should have a rubber pad at the top. This is called either an isolator pad, or a anti-squeek pad. To get the springs in, jack the car up as hiigh as you can in the rear. Place the frame on jack stands. Remove one shock, and pull the rear end down on that side. Then using a small prybr if needed, pry the spring in. Do one side at a time, bolting the shock back when done. Charles
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you're absolutely right.. that's the best thing to do, so's not to hose it up.. it is what i will do. Besides, I can detail the engine compartment at that point as well..

either
shock
Crap... unbolting the shock was what i didn't think of... thanks for the tip! And I guess I'll be getting new isolator pads (i like that better than anti-squeak) Now that i think about it... it's the same on my Celica's rear.. take the shock loose at one end, and the spring pretty much falls out once you jack up the car high enough..
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