87 olds cutlas ceiara 2.8L V6 MPFI

I have an 87 olds cutlas ceiera with the 2.8liter v six multi-port fuel injected.
Its having problems it will start but only run a short while at the
moment, it had done this before, I thought I had it fixed, figured it was something simple as it would always start, I drove it got stuck again, anyway it seems to be a bit worse rite now as it never seems to run very long now.
I am really looking for someone who has had a similar problem and ideas about how to fix it on da cheap, I don't have test equipment and can't aford to buy them either, taking it someware is out of my price range at the moment, and swaping out parts till its fixed isn't an option either.
I have looked for info on the web, found a haynes manual online but it didn't have exactly my car, found master machanic or somesuch book at the library, it has my engine, but the book is for a repair shop as they have several hundred if not thousands of dollars in equipment listed to do their tests, I'm sure if I could get all that stuff the info is more than enough to fix it but I have no way to get all that stuff.
Anyway if anyone has similar problems I would be most interested in the solution
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On Thu, 02 Sep 2004 16:10:13 -0400, "D_E_H0987"

You didn't mention if it was temperature dependant. My Olds has got a fuel pump going south and that's what it does when it heats up. I figure that winter is coming so it won't be an issue till spring & with luck I'll have traded it in on a new car by then :-)
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It does not seem to be temp dependant. it will restart right away no delay. It is not running long enough right now to see if it would stay running if hot. It also does not seem to run longer when the temp outside is lowwer least as far as I can tell.
I am wondering if there is a differance in the way the fuel pump is ran at startup verses normal, I got the idea in my head it mite be like the blower mottors and run on high but not on lower settings, just wondering if anyone knows about this?? Like to find out if this is true before ripping the tank out and checking the pump though. I pulled the line from the output side of the fuel filter and fuel poors out with out starting the vehical, and the fuel rail is pressurised, as I can push the valve and fuel sprays all over the place. I don't have a guage to test the actual pressure though.
There is one other thing I rember, the last time it died, is that it sputtered while driving but I was on the interstate going fairly fast and it kept going, then started running ok till it stoped again, then it would restart but not run very long.
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Hey I'm still looking for ideas. Is there any place that lists what hapens when differant sensors fail??
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D_E_H0987 wrote in alt.autos.gm

I don't know of anyplace that does it that way, most sites I have seen do it the other way around. You locate your symptom, and then they will tell you what is likely to be wrong. http://www.autozone.com for instance.
--
Dick #1349
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
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a better quote
I like older women They don't swell They don't tell And they're grateful as hell
Benjamin Franklin, Paris Dave
Mir welle bleiwe wat mir sin (Letzebuergesch)
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wrote: Snip

In reference to your tag line Dick. Would "they" be the group that voted for the "patriot" act? Hmm. I always wonder why Patriot ends in Riot.
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Full_Name wrote in alt.autos.gm

Just an interesting comment on the state of people's fears. But, yes, it includes those who support the so called patriot act.
--
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"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
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On Thu, 02 Sep 2004 16:10:13 -0400, "D_E_H0987"

Sometimes these can be buggers to fix. I know you've probably already done this but here are a few examples of what I was able to Google in a few minutes. Usually if you don't get a clear cut answer in this NG it's more likely a problem unique to your vehicle. You've got a vehicle exposed to oxidizing elements and time. bad news for electrical connections. Might just have to run the engine and check every wire till it stalls and then confirm if it's that electrical connection. Best of luck
http://www.2carpros.com/makes/olds/cutlass.htm Question: 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 2.8 mileage: 104,000. Car would buck and surge at various speeds. Stalls every time you come to a stop at a light. Took it to the shop, they put it on their computer - no readings of anything wrong. The mechanic then drove the car, came back and said it seems to be shutting off for a second and coming back on. His diagnosis was an ignition problem. Changed the ignition module and coil pack. We did this a month ago. Car would still buck and surge but stopped stalling. Car would drive fine sometimes and other times it would buck and surge. Now when you drive it the indicator lights on the dash flash, the speedometer goes crazy and sometimes the whole dashboard will go blank (digital dash). They seem to think it's electrical but don't know where to go to start looking. They did talk to a GM tech that told them there is a secondary wire going to the computer that sometimes shorts out. Well they cut open the wire harness going to the computer under the car and found no bad wires. So if you guys have any ideas? This car now drives, bucks and surges with the dashboard going nuts every time you drive it; step on the pedal.
Answer: About the dash gauges going crazy, unfortunately, you need a new gauge assembly. As for the bucking and surging, we first suspect the fuel pump. Installing a temporary remote fuel pressure gauge, driving the car and observing the gauge when the problem occurs can verify if our hunch is correct.

engine will run for thirty seconds and shut off. Then there is no spark. I removed the dies coil pack and ignition module and had them tested, with a good result. The ECM was changed last year for the same problem, but it shows no codes. Fuel pump pressure is around 40 psi, even when engine shuts off. Any ideas where to look from here?
Answer: You may be having another computer module failing. Check with an Ohmmeter the resistance of the ground connections to the computer. Also, check the resistance of each of the fuel injectors. If the resistance of a fuel injector is high, it will pull too much current through the computer and burn it out.

Olds wagon has been a terrific car until the last week. Yesterday, it started hesitating (all the time) and cutting off at lower speeds. There is no warning, the engine just stops. It almost always restarts on the first attempt, but sometimes it takes a couple of restarts to catch. I have replaced the fuel filter (back by the left rear tire) and added fuel treatment (STP). Over 45 mph the problem is almost completely non-existent. Below 45 MPH, I can feel the car 'hiccupping' as I drive it. Can you point me in the most likely direction to start looking for the problem?
Answer: Your car may be ready for a major tune-up including spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter. Also, perform a fuel pump pressure test. Clean fuel injection system including throttle bore, idle speed control motor and passages. If problem still exists, scan computer for trouble codes.

53bruce Help Friends! This story seems to be just too common... I have a 91 olds, 3.1 Multiport FI and it wont start. in kinda ran in the past, then it just quit about 5 miles from home and hasnt started since. I think I have tried just about everything, but like a previous post, it wont fire unless I squirt some gas into the air intake. Its been quite a journey getting this far, when it quit, the injectors seemed to be injecting fuel, but no spark. After 2 ignition modules, I finally got a module that works. The spark is nice and bright now, but now, to my intense dismay, now the fuel injectors arent injecting. I checked the resistance on each injecter ( about 12 ohms each) rang the cabling back to the computer, in fact, I rang back all the sensors back to the computer and all wires seem to be OK. Then I checked the resistance of each sensor back at the computer and they appeared to be OK. The fuel rail has plenty of pressure ( about 35psi) and I have 12 volts present at the injectors when the ignition is ON. BUT, when the engine cranks, the computer isnt pulling one side of the injectors down to o volts so they wont activate.( I put a 12 volt lamp on 1 of the injectors and it wont light either) If I put 12 volts manually across the injectors, they will open and put fuel in the engine ( and then it will start and run for a bit.)
So, The questions that I have, 1. I rang back the crankshaft sensor and it shows about 290 ohms, is this normal? It seems to be enough to fire the spark plugs, but not sure if its too low to fire the injectors. 2. the obvious, the possibility that the computer is defective and injector control circuitry is blown
3. any other insignificant device that will shut down the fuel delivery?
4. The coolant temperature sensor, often mentioned in other posts, appears to meet spec at 75 degrees its about 2800 ohms
This seems to be the last thing to correct and the car may resume a happy life. otherwise, the next trip this car takes may be to the junkyard!
Thanks for all suggestions...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
53bruce OK, I think I finally got to the bottom of this! Here is what I found: First, I replaced the crank sensor as the original reading seemed too low at 290 ohms. the new sensor reads 900 ohms, a considerabile difference. but the car still would not start. I compared with some junked cars, they also were at 900 ohms on the sensor, so the sensor replacement was problably needed anyway I had meticulusly checked each and every wire in the engine on all sensors and components to the computer from pin to pin, but the engine still would not work at all!( but everything still seemed to be right) Then, by a stoke of luck I saw on the schematic the the engine computer picks up the ground on the 6 pin connector of the ignition module, so I rang out the path through the module back to the battery and SURPRIZE, it was open. Better, when I moved the 6 pin connection back and forth, I could see the connection making and breaking. So I squeezed each and every pin of the ignition module cable connectors and now THE ENGINE WORKS! :-) Happy Happy Joy Joy
This is how you can fix this issue: First, disconnect the battery negative lead, ( so nothing will get damaged) then, unplug the 3 connectors to the ignition module on the lower front of the engine. these connectors are the DC power, on RH side, the crank sensor and the 6 pin computer interface connector on the left side. NOW, VERY CAREFULLY, look at the female pins in all 3 connectors, they will be small square shaped. This issue is that when the connecters are attached to the module, the male pins in the module may NOT be touching the female connectors. so, I took a very small pick and CAREFULLY wedged the female pins up out of the connector body about 2 mm, then used a minature pliers to squeeze them very slightly, then pressed them back into the connector, so that when they were connected, they will touch! (BUT, Dont crush them too much, then the connectors wont fit and you could be starting a bad day.. ) after the connectors are back in place, check that other connections are secure, then return the battery connection and try to start the car. with any luck...
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<Then, by a stoke of luck I saw on the schematic the the engine computer picks up the ground on the 6 pin connector of the ignition module, so I rang out the path through the module back to the battery and SURPRIZE, it was open. Better, when I moved the 6 pin connection back and forth, I could see the connection making and breaking. So I squeezed each and every pin of the ignition module cable connectors and now THE ENGINE WORKS! :-)

connectors would do that bit of loostening up but I guess with vibration and all, I'll have to rip open the dash, this makes more sence than anything else as it could offer up differant problems with vibration etc. And it mite explain why it all most always starts right away.
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Ok I tore open the dash, I found the power leed on the under dash light was crimped inbetwen the brackets on the relays, it looks like it was shorting to ground as the insulation was open showing the conductor, but if so, why didn't it blow a fuse? Anyone know ware this light gets power? Its up under the glove box on the pasenger side, I think the wires for it conect in the same bundle as the computer modual. I am still trying to get this thing fixed, not much luck, I was looking at the connectors to the computer modual when I noticed the wires to the light stuck inbetween the peices of metal holding the heater and fuel pump relays.
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