(93 jimmy) resolder rear window defrost

I have a 93 jimmy where the flat braid-type of wire has come off the window. This is the portion where it goes to the connector on the window shock/lifter. What's the best way to resolder this? I've tried a 120 W
soldering gun with the wire clamped to the pad where it was before. I'm going to try some liquid flux to clean the surface next and redo it. Anyone have any other suggestion that would work?
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Get some good rosin flux works great on hard to solder projects.
Rey
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Permatex, for one, makes a repair kit that sounds like it will do what you want. See:
http://www.permatex.com/auto/autogr.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no !351
Gotta believe it would be carried by your local parts house. I haven't tried it so don't know how good it is.
Regards, John
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you
http://www.permatex.com/auto/autogr.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no !351
That's for repairing damaged traces on the glass. I really doubt it'd be able to bond the leads from the struts to the pads on the glass.
That stuff does work great for repairing traces on damaged PCBs though.
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http://www.permatex.com/auto/autogr.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no !351
The description on their web page for what I found is:
"Permatex (trademark) Electrically Conductive Rear Window Fogger Tab Adhesive"
"Quickly and easily bonds defogger tab to grid on rear window. Provides a low- cost, high-quality repair for damaged rear window defogger tabs. Complete kit for a quick repair."
They have have another product they call Quick Grid Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit for fixing the traces.
Regards, John
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On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 21:14:47 GMT, "John Sheatsley"

I had a similar product used on a 94 Jimmy, the defogger worked fine afterwards. I don't know the exact product that was used, I had it done at a shop while the truck was in for other work. I imagine a call to a good glass place would find the right product and maybe an inexpensive labor charge to have the repair done...
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First get a bigger gun. Then heat up and wipe off the old solder. The bigger the gun the better since it will not take long to heat up the solder and do less damage to the pad. Once you have the old solder off clean up and tin the end of the wire itself. Before you tin the wire spread it out some. Once you have the wire tinned add some more solder till it is heavy on the wire. Now use the iron to heat the wire/solder till the solder flows onto the pad on the glass.
For solder get some electronics grade solder that has some silver in it and rosin flux. Use a brass brush to clean up the pad once you wipe the old solder. The solder will bond better.
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I did one of mine one summer with a good ol 100W soldering iron and some patience. It took quite some time to get the solder hot enough to melt (the glass conducts heat away from the joint, a major problem). Just be careful, the idea of a very small, very hot area on an otherwise cold pane of glass can (and has) cause it to shatter. That's why I waited until summer, less of a temperature difference.
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