Ours was an '87 Celebrity wagon 2.5 Iron Duke/Tech 4. It did the same thing, first it wouldn't restart hot but was OK if left running then it started dying. The shop fixed it and part of the fix was a new TBI fuel injector, some time later it would start, run for a few seconds, and die. If the alternator was unplugged it would run flawlessly so I hooked up a battery charger and noted that when the voltage went above 14 it would die, It turned out that the new injector was defective and was shorting out under load and tripping the ECM's protection circuit (it ohmed out fine). I confirmed this by hooking a resistor in series with the injector and noted that the engine stayed running at full operating voltage with the alternator plugged back in. I had the new injector replaced under the 1 year warranty and it ran fine again.
Thanks for the tool tip, I may need it as I have 2 OBDII Luminas with the
3100, a '96 LS with Cal. emissions and the aforementioned '97 base Fed. emissions. Both have bad turn signal switches currently and the '96 has bad tires. Why can't all cars have separated stop and turn lamps like my GF's '91 Tracker 4x4?FWIW I now understand the sentiments of those who say that they will never buy another automatic trans car, I put a newer engine (a '94) in the Tracker and it is the first manual trans car I have ever driven and I already love it, granted I have been driving farm tractors for a couple years now and can rev match shift some of them without the clutch, but I didn't think driving a manual without an engine governor could be so easy or fun. I haven't killed it yet but she killed it twice in a row when she forgot to release the hand brake LOL.