Has anyone had any experience with a 2000 Cavalier where once the car
is put into gear the ABS, Traction Control & Service Engine lights come
on. If I turn the car off & restart the car the lights then stay off
until the vehicle cools down. Mostly occurs when weather is cold.
I have had mechanics tell me it's a speed senser, which cost $300 to
replace and it still does it. I have also been told that it's my
I can live with the turning the vehicle off and back on but if it is
any easy fix please let me know.
Thanks for the insightful help Steve. The fact that the mechanics told
me it was a speed sensor and then the ignition switch would leave most
people of at least average intelligence to think that I have already
had it diagnosed. I'm sure you thought of the astonishing response,
"Actually have it diagnosed" while you sat at the back of the little
yellow school bus today.
For those of you who actually wish to assist, I was hoping that perhaps
someone else had experienced the same symptoms and could shed some
light on which area to focus on before I drop a few hundred more into
I don't have a suggestion for you on this problem, but I think what Steve
meant was to take your car for a diagnosis at a shop that really understands
these things. From the sounds of it, your mechanic really does not and it
quickly gets expensive if you keep throwing parts at problems. This is a
great forum to bring these types of question to and often enough you can
find the answers right here... but those typically are for the more well
defined problems. So many of these problems today are only well defined
through the connection of the scan tool.
It's not my experience that any of these types of problems (similar to
yours) have ever been related to the ignition switch, so that one really has
me scratching my head. I'd be more inclined to believe a wheel hub is
beginning to fail. The ABS sensor is located inside of/and integral part of
the hub and bearing assembly. A scan tool will reveal which of the hubs is
reporting a failure. Without that, you've got 4 hubs to chose from... pick
one. I sure would not be surprised if a 2000 Cavalier needed a hub at this
It's often best to take Steve's advice and get the car to a reputable
mechanic or the dealer and scan the car. At least you'll know what to fix.
Well I can almost guarantee you that anyone who has had these symptoms will
be able to tell you what's wrong with your car. It would be about the same
as someone telling you to replace your O2 sensor if you MIL was on because
that's what happened to them. "My check engine light is on, what's wrong."
If you are getting two mechanics telling you two different things, then at
least one (maybe both) didn't even look at your car. Or if you are getting
one mechanic telling you it's one thing, then something else, get a second
opinion. Posts like yours pop up on here day after day. "This guy told me it
could be this, this guy told me it could be that." If you took it to a
mechanic who diagnosed it and told you what the problem was you wouldn't
even be here posting this nonsense.
There is nothing anyone in here can do for you other than tell you to take
it to a mechanic, unless you are of above average intelligence and know how
to diagnose the vehicle yourself, but then you wouldn't be in here asking
questions no one can answer. ;)
Like Mike said, Steve is right;...Only a mechanic can pull the codes.
Leave things like measuring wiring and sensor resistence to a qualified
pro. Even it takes $500 for a truly qualified person to throw parts at
it, big deal! you'll feel more comfortable with a professionals
explanation as to why after replacing all these parts, the car still
experiences the same symptoms. Your mechanic knows better than you! If
you've already examined underneath the vehicle and noticed the wiring
to one of the sensors has gone bad, or maybe one of the sensors has
been unplugged, dont try fixing it yourself! Have it towed to your
mechanic immediately so he can plugg it back in with the expertise that
only he possess'! You obviously thought this was a forum for
do-it-yourselfers! Go now, you peasant, go to the great wizard, the
wonderful wizard OZ,...but be sure to bring your wallet!
Ummmmm... not sure exactly what you're trying to say here, but for the
record, I was making the point in favor of diagnosing the problem and not
letting "mechanics" throw parts at it until they'd replaced enough of the
car to eventually fix it.
Thanks everyone for the advice. To clarify, I have had the mechanics at
the dealership diagnose the problem. They said it could be a speed
senser, which I replaced. They also said it could be my ignition
switch. What the two have in common I do not know. I know others will
advise that I
go to another dealership, which, if I have to I will.
What I was hoping for was to find out if this is a common problem or a
unique problem. Sounds like this is a unique situation which will
require further testing.
As for the comments for you Steve, they were in response to the many
sarcastic response you have posted to other peoples questions. I have
stayed away from this format in the past because of posts like yours,
and most likely I will do so in the future.
So anyway, if you still want help, here's some more sarcastic remarks:
You are leaving out a lot of information, it's hard for someone on the other
end of a computer to fill holes in stories.
You say the mechanic told you it was a speed sensor so you replaced it. Did
the mechanic tell you which one? (don't get pissy, it happens) Did the
mechanic "diagnose" it, or did he stick a scan tool on it and say "ya, it's
this sensor." See, if all he did was stick a scan tool on it and say the
right front sensor is open or shorted, replacing it will not necessarily fix
the problem, it could be the wiring.
I believe Ian was just snipping at someone a few threads back about taking
the car into the dealership and having it diagnosed but only to take it
home, replace the part himself. Which didn't fix the problem and now they
were here complaining about it.
You never posted what the trouble codes were, in a case like this, it a
necessity when looking for help here. It probably is a common problem and
someone here probably knows the answer, but how would you know, all you
basically told us is "TCS, ABS, MIL on, mechanic told me it was speed
sensor, I replaced it, didn't fix the problem, now he tells me it's the
ignition switch." Fill in all the holes and the answer will come.
Yep, I'm with you on this one, Steve. How anyone can be
expected to provide any proper insight or advice from the
original post in this thread is beyond me! As usual, someone
is trying to save a few bucks and it will end up costing them
money that didn't need to be spent. The story is incomplete,
who really knows what is happening.
At each wheel is a sensor that measures wheel speed. If this sensor is
pulled off, it willproduce the same affects. This condition alone will
turn the service lightand set a code after vehicle is started and put
in gear. Try a simple wiggle test and inspection on each sensor at each
wheel. If this doesn't work check for open sensor or sensor circuit. Jim
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