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AC Compressor replacement

I am finally ready to install a rebuilt AC compressor along with a new expansion tube and Accumulator in my 93 Lumina APV mini van. The factory manual has lots of confusing info about adding oil as does the instruction that came with the rebuild. They both say to drain and measure the oil in the old compressor and use this amount to calculate the amount to add to the replacement.

Problem is, to get the old comp out I had to turn it every which way and all of the oil just spilled out on my driveway so I did not get a chance to measure it.

So my question #1 is: Is it better to err on the side of too much or too little?

#2: The factory manual shows two compressor models, one has an oil drain bolt. My model does not so I can only assume the oil goes in and drains out the Inlet and/or Outlet ports, right? Does it matter whether inlet or outlet?

Thanks in advance for any answers advice or suggestions.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Chappuis
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Thanks for the reply. It is an original 134a sytem. The replacement compressor shipped dry. There is no stud, the cap is held on with a hex head bolt. I had planned on putting te cap back on. You have to get the compressor in past the frame from the bottom without the bracket in place, hold the compressor out of the way and then install the bracket, then bolt the compressor to the bracket. That is the only way it would come out.

The manual says to add some oil to the accumulator also. Would you still add the 5 to the compressor?

Thanks aga>Has the system been converted to 134a yet? If not do you have access to r12?

Reply to
Chappuis

The system has a specified oil capacity, just like the engine... The capacities for the individual components take into account the fact that oil is constantly in circulation when the system is running but then settles out into the individual components when it is shut down and circulation stops. Adding up the capacities for the individual components should equal the total of the system capacity.

Normal prudent course of action when replacing a grenaded compressor is to flush all components, blow them dry and then add the specified amount of oil to each component, evacuate, recharge and enjoy the cool.

Reply to
Neil Nelson

Thanks for the reply.

I am probably being imprudent to even bother with this 12 year old,

196,000 mile minivan. Anyway, the compressor did not grenade, it seems the pulley just seized. Can you flush the the components in place and if so how? I have no intention of pulling the condensor and evaporator, it has taken me three weeks to remove the compressor, acumulator and expansion valve!.
Reply to
Chappuis

I don't know... if it still runs good and you can do the AC work yourself, it makes sense. Sometimes it better the devil you do know than the one you don't.

Sure, just disconnect the components, rig up some hose and a funnel and pour in a half gallon of denatured alcohol, then blow it out with compressed air. Repeat until clean.

Reply to
Neil Nelson

Thhanks for your reply, The orifice tube looks normal except for graphite looking coating on it. The rotor or whatever it is inside the compressor turns freely if you turn what I think is the clutch but the pulley is locked solid..

The original symptom that prompted this replacement was not non working AC but the engine would not start. After replacing the starter and battery I finally turned to this NG and quickly was tipped that it could be a siezed AC pulley, which it was. Prior to the seizure the AC worked, although not great.

I am go>It was probably the compressor seizing up. Anyway the orifice tube(the tube

Reply to
Chappuis

Reply to
Chappuis

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