1998 Buick LaSabre
I got the wheel bearing off and will need to replace it. It came apart and
the back side is still on the car.
I did not know I had to take the steering knuckle off to get the CV out and
will work on that tomorrow. My concern is when I take the knuckle off will I
need to compress the strut?
I have no idea what to do. Having never replace a ball joint, is it
something I can take apart then reinstall?
I looked at a repair book at Auto Zone and it said to remove the bolts where
the knuckle is attached to the strut mounts. Again I worry if I will need to
compress the strut or will it stay in place.
I feel lost like an Easter egg on what to do.
OK your replacing the hub and the outer CV joint, correct?
As I read it you have the hub off and now want to remove the outer CV?
First remove the lower ball joint. Don't touch the strut. To get more
clearance you can turn the steering wheel either left or right to push
the knuckle farther out once the ball joint is unhooked. Once you have
it this far you can just push the axle in to collapse the inner and
outer joints as much as possible. Then the axle will come out of the
knuckle and you can then reach in and grab the INNER axle joint and give
it a quick yank to pull it out of the transaxle.
DO NOT JUST GRAB THE AXLE AND YANK, That will pull both joints apart and
you'll end up with a mess.
You MAY need to put a small pry bar between the joint and the case to
pop it free. Then instead of replacing the outer joint just buy a
rebuilt axle that has the inner and outer joint already replaced and
relubed. Install the "new" axle in the reverse of the way you removed
it. Much easier and quicker than messing around replacing the individual
pieces. Usually cheaper as well.
"Tim" <T& email@example.com> wrote in message
You are right on about an axle saving money over rebuilding a joint. I will
give the lower ball joint a try tomorrow. I seen in the book it said to pull
out the old one and if needed use the pry bar.
Thanks to everyone for your help with the mess I have going on. I hope I can
write tomorrow I DID IT.
Look, it's all fairly simple. You remove the cotter pin that retains
the ball stud nut, remove the ball stud nut, give the spindle (part that
the ball stud goes thru) a couple of wacks with a ball peen hammer
and then use a large pry bar to force the lower control arm down.
Once you have the ball stud out of the spindle (you do not have to
physically remove the ball joint, it stays in the lower control arm), then
you can move the spindle/strut assembly enough to be able to get the
axle out of the wheel bearing hub. In order to make it a little bit easier,
if you are working on the left side, turn the steering all the way to the
right, if the right side, all the way to left.
This would be good to emphasize..You don't hammer on the nut or on the
balljoint stud. You whach the side of the spindle through which the stud
It is really tempting to pound on the stud itself, but of about three things
happen, two are not nice.
If you are going to replace the balljoint anyway, a separator tool can
usually be rented
A few years ago it could of been easy however I have had two unsugessfull
surgery's on my right rotator cuff and have continued pain, with weakness,
and my left side is also torn and will have surgery on it in September. I
can manage the wheel bearing hub change but the axle was a bit too much for
Thanks any ways.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.