CV Change update

1998 Buick LaSabre
I got the wheel bearing off and will need to replace it. It came apart and the back side is still on the car.
I did not know I had to take the steering knuckle off to get the CV out and
will work on that tomorrow. My concern is when I take the knuckle off will I need to compress the strut?
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You don't need to remove the knuckle, pop the lower ball joint out, you should be able to move the strut/knuckle far enough over to clear the axle, I assume it is out of the bearing at this point.

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It is still in one piece. If I do take the lower part of the joint apart I still will need room to replace it.

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Tim wrote:

Take the whole axle right out and work on it at a bench. Don't bother trying to replace the c/v joint with the axle still attached....too much work...not enough space.
Ian
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I am replacing the entire axle.

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Tim all I can tell is I've managed to do it like, this you may have to remove the tie rod end also to get enough movement.

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I have no idea what to do. Having never replace a ball joint, is it something I can take apart then reinstall?
I looked at a repair book at Auto Zone and it said to remove the bolts where the knuckle is attached to the strut mounts. Again I worry if I will need to compress the strut or will it stay in place.
I feel lost like an Easter egg on what to do.

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Tim, OK your replacing the hub and the outer CV joint, correct? As I read it you have the hub off and now want to remove the outer CV? First remove the lower ball joint. Don't touch the strut. To get more clearance you can turn the steering wheel either left or right to push the knuckle farther out once the ball joint is unhooked. Once you have it this far you can just push the axle in to collapse the inner and outer joints as much as possible. Then the axle will come out of the knuckle and you can then reach in and grab the INNER axle joint and give it a quick yank to pull it out of the transaxle.
DO NOT JUST GRAB THE AXLE AND YANK, That will pull both joints apart and you'll end up with a mess.
You MAY need to put a small pry bar between the joint and the case to pop it free. Then instead of replacing the outer joint just buy a rebuilt axle that has the inner and outer joint already replaced and relubed. Install the "new" axle in the reverse of the way you removed it. Much easier and quicker than messing around replacing the individual pieces. Usually cheaper as well.
--
Steve W.

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You are right on about an axle saving money over rebuilding a joint. I will give the lower ball joint a try tomorrow. I seen in the book it said to pull out the old one and if needed use the pry bar.
Thanks to everyone for your help with the mess I have going on. I hope I can write tomorrow I DID IT.

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Tim wrote:

Look, it's all fairly simple. You remove the cotter pin that retains the ball stud nut, remove the ball stud nut, give the spindle (part that the ball stud goes thru) a couple of wacks with a ball peen hammer and then use a large pry bar to force the lower control arm down. Once you have the ball stud out of the spindle (you do not have to physically remove the ball joint, it stays in the lower control arm), then you can move the spindle/strut assembly enough to be able to get the axle out of the wheel bearing hub. In order to make it a little bit easier, if you are working on the left side, turn the steering all the way to the right, if the right side, all the way to left.
Ian
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easier,
Ian's right, but I always leave the nut just started a turn or two on the stud when I whack it with a hammer. You don't want to munge the starter threads.
--

-Mike-
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news:4effd$4499e484$471fba06

This would be good to emphasize..You don't hammer on the nut or on the balljoint stud. You whach the side of the spindle through which the stud passes.
It is really tempting to pound on the stud itself, but of about three things that can happen, two are not nice.
If you are going to replace the balljoint anyway, a separator tool can usually be rented or borrowed.
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A few years ago it could of been easy however I have had two unsugessfull surgery's on my right rotator cuff and have continued pain, with weakness, and my left side is also torn and will have surgery on it in September. I can manage the wheel bearing hub change but the axle was a bit too much for me.
Thanks any ways.

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I gave up the axle won.

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