ecm temp sensor 2004 pontiac grand prix

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What is the location of ecm temp sensor 2004 grand prix

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150,000 miles. Engine ran great. (see other post)
Charles
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snipped-for-privacy@pell.net (Charles) wrote in message

THIS is a follow-up to my original post.
On monday morning(6/23/03) I went to the dealer and asked them to sign a letter stating they had no responsibility for the engine problem and I would take the car.
The body of the letter follows:(with name removed)
-------------------------------------------------------------- Dear Mr. xxxxx
Regarding the Steering Gear Recall repair performed on Friday 6/20/03 and the engine problem that ensued during the time the 1997 Olds Silhouette was in the custody of xxxxxxxxxxxxx.
We at xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx have examined the engine problem to the best of our ability, without disassembling the engine and have concluded that we bear no responsibility for the problem as a result of any action taken by the employees of xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
Sincerely
Signed: ___________________________________Title: ________________________
----------------------------------------------------------------
They said that they would need to run the letter through their legal dept.. I gave them the Keys to the car and left.
---------------------------------------
Six days and no response.............
Charles
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horse shit!!!!!! added r 134a into r-12 system with no problems at all. even 2 years later.

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Two types of R 134A oils are used. PAG oil is synthetic, and used in new systems. Ester oil is compatible with the mineral oil based oil in an R 12 system. Ester oil is used in retrofit conversions. Using PAG oil in an Ester based, or mineral oil based system * will * cause problems. Beware of " top up kits " "leak sealers "and other booster products, most contain PAG oil, and will damage an Ester based system.
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:-) He probably knew and endjoyed the challenge to gear the rear end. You'd have to gear a 409" (all else being equal) higher (e.g. 3.73) to boost the torque higher into the mid-rpm range. A 409" needed no off-the-line help .. . it tended to flag toward the top end, exactly where a Hemi would just keep going and going with its better breathing (especially if the ports were polished and the headers balanced). Funny, I remember very, very few hemi Mopars around here for some inexplicable reason .. . it was all (by '64) Ford 427" vs Chevy 427". I believe the Fords had the edge at that time, Chevy having just dropped out of racing .. .

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And you need 360 hp (old rating) to get stuck in traffic?
Do you know a Chevy Prizm/Corolla can do 115 in a straightaway? He beat my 2.8 FI Celebrity and I topped 105 (a guess with 85mph speedo). I had a holeshot on a 40th Anniversary Vette with a 1987 Ford Tempo GL (2.3L FI)! And I've been had by a 19 yo girl in a Justy too. Whoever has nerve wins 75% of the time.
Do you need to believe the crap or do you go to Jimmyz Chevy Shack and promptly read the flyer and kick tires?
It's your lettuce.
| > With the Beach Boys singing "Giddy-Up 409" in the background of the | > commercial, it is more than a little deceptive in the implication that | there | > is a 409ci V8 engine under the hood of the new Impala SS. We all know the | > engine is a V6 half the size...although probably close to the horses of | the | > original "409". But still...don't make a commercial that implies the car | > has a BIG V8 when it doesn't have a BIG V8!!! Yea, I know, most all car | > buffs know, but it's dishonest. | | 409 = 360HP | 3.8SC = 240HP | | FYI | | | | --- | Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. | Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ). | Version: 6.0.490 / Virus Database: 289 - Release Date: 16/06/2003 | |
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Shit, and all this time I thought they were talking about 409 the Kitchen/Bathroom surface cleaner...
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nah.. I've already got the metra kit that relocates the radio to the back of the trunk, now what I want is something that will mate with the factory harness that plugs into the amp for the premium audio amp that is mounted upsidedown in the trunk.
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PDX
DOn't you need the factory radio to program stuff for the car , such as door locks functions, chimes and other stuff?
========Harryface ======== 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~258,600 miles_~_~~_
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The big question is, how long to you plan on keeping the car ? I would go to an independent garage and see what they charge. $ 600 sounds like a * lot * of money to change out some fluids. Consider using a Turkey baster, or syringe, and draw out some suspect fluid, and squirt it on some clean white paper. No dirt = probably OK, dirty = change it ! I'd also consider what type of fluids are used. GM approved would be bare minimum for me. Synthetic trans fluid will add years to transmission life. Silicone brake fluid, not a simple change out, as old fluid has to be removed, system flushed totally, as the two fluids are incompatible. Will add years to life of brake components, and is a great way to go if you store car.
Since it sells well, Synthetic oil is recommended by GM I'd go a step further, and use racing grade fluids when ever possible. I do my own work, and the cost is limited to product.
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Thanks for the feedback. It's unfortunate that these days, to avoid getting ripped off by some dealer's service dept., you either have to be an expert or do your own work. What I have learned from this thread, and from talking to others is: 1.-Dealers in general will definitely try to sell you stuff you don't need. Some say service dept. managers are on commission. In the case of Cadillac owners they figure that anyone who can afford the car, certainly can afford $1,000 worth of "preventive maintenance". 2.-Frequent changes in fluids will certainly not hurt, especially engine oil and transmission fluid. 3.-In the case of low-mileage cars, one should also consider the time factor. GM apparently uses 12,000 miles/year in formulating its manual, and if one drives less than that then their intervals should be adjusted accordingly. Thus, the 22,500 miles service should really be 22,500 miles or 2 years, whichever comes first.
Does any of this make sense? Many thanks for all the help.
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"Ivanovich" wrote

Well, I will say this....I work at a Cadillac dealership and the Cadillac owners are (generally speaking) the absolute worst when it comes to maintaining their vehicles. They seem to believe, (and perhaps GM is partly to blame for this) that they should never have to spend another cent on their Cadillac for as long as they own it. Geez, GM even throws in the first brake job for free on Cadillac's.
Ian
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Thanks. How do I go about claiming that free brake job? Cheers.
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Thanks for your input. I will check the warranty.
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Water shouldn't hurt, I regulary use engine cleaner, and hose off engine, I drive through puddles, in the rain, go to car washes. Sounds like some " funny business ". Start by testing grounds, try running a jumper cable from starter housing to negative battery terminal, to verify starter is fully grounding.. Sometimes a skimpy ground lets some current through, but not enough to crank. A good test is, turn on headlights, watch lights as you try cranking. If lights don't dim = open circut in starter. If lights go out = bad ground. If lights dim weak battery. I'd think this is more of a co-incidence, and it would be almost belittleing to think a few drops of coolant would take out a starter. Than again, we're talking modern cars !
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My starter experience with a 2.2L engine (on a Corsica)... Turn key, absolutely nothing happens, then a half second later, the starter jumps to life like normal. This happens occassionally (after working properly for years). One time, starter doesn't work at all, had to replace. Its going thru its delay thing again. I don't understand really, I think bad connection somewhere inside starter. Funny thing, when the starter didn't go, the electric trunk release didn't work.
rick
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Running down clues helps solve many electrical problems, Since the trunk release isn't working, I'd see where it gets its power. My guess is dirty solenoid wire terminals. Disconnect battery, remove solenoid wires. Big terminal has several power taps, along with battery cable. That's a good place to start. A wimpy connection may be keeping the solinoid from energizing fully. For the ultimate in starter performance get a Ford Conversion which includes a solenoid shunt. The shunt insures a full blast of amperage, no current lost in wiring harness. The Ford Relay can be jumpered with those cheezy Radio Shack jumper wires without the wire getting warm.
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I work for a company who is GM supplier here in canada. I believe I have to pay dealer cost plus 4%.
What happens if dealer charges more than that? anyone had any experience like this....I think I paid around 400 mora than what I should have.:(
cd
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net says...

'Cause GM has had crackpot designers since going "Corporate Nonsense" in 1982!
--
_________________________________________________________________
Dennis Smith
  Click to see the full signature.
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