ecm temp sensor 2004 pontiac grand prix

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My " brief voyage " into non domestic built cars was for two reasons that had nothing to do with the quality of the car. It had to do with dealership methods of sale and service.
1. They wouldn't give me a price on the car. 'make an offer' and get laughed at when your neighbor tells you they paid a thousand less than you for the same car. (The need to keep the price out front.) That has been addressed? 2. The service departments couldn't deliver on parts without ordering from across the country (for something as simple as a muffler pipe) and when it came in it was the wrong part.
The car I wanted at the time was a beauty, I wanted that car. Yet my experiences lead me to (I'm sorry to say,) purchase a non domestic vehicle.
Scott Simon wrote:

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You though across the country (for something as simple as a muffler pipe) and when it came in it was the wrong part was bad. Wait till you need one that has to come from across the ocean and you see the price tag. LOL.
mike hunt
Wooduuuward wrote:

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I already have, but that's history. I returned to a nice big north american car that I get repaired at a general purpose garage, that gives me good service. They must be doing a good job for me as I'm still driving that car fourteen years later.
snipped-for-privacy@mailciity.com wrote:

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Next year you can get antique car plates and insurance and save even more money LOL
mike hunt
Wooduuuward wrote:

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Gordo wrote:

It's all here: http://www.dieoff.org /
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Because oil didn't start flowing from Iraq on time. GW
Gordo wrote:

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Harry,
Here we go.... This will be a long winded response. The exterior door handles were prone to rusty internal mechanisms, on that model year. I have dealt with this many times. There are 2 ways to go about this. I will list them below.
First way:
Get a can of rust penetrating oil spray (WD-40,.. etc.). One with a spray tube (that little red straw that you stick in the spray nozzle). Insert that straw under the exterior door handle "thumb push button". If you look at the thumb button, there is a gap under it. Spray around in circles, and try to get it all around, inside the door, near the handle. You only need to push the tube in about 3/4 to 1 inch. Now,... beat on the door handle moderately, and then try the push button. If you start to feel the push button getting some resistance, but then it feels like there is nothing there the second time, than this is working. You may have to repeat this many times before the door opens. When you get resistance on the full stroke of the push button, you have fixed your problem. Beat, spray, push the button.
The thumb button is not connected to the "open door rod". The button is spring loaded and merely pushes a lever that is attached to a rod. That lever is stuck in the "open" position inside the door due to corrosion. Beating on the door handle helps it return to it's original position, after you have sprayed it with penetrating oil. This is also the reason you can't open the door from the inside. It's like someone is pushing the button on the outside, when you try to unlock the door from the inside. There is a mechanical conflict.
Second way:
Remove the door panel. This is easier if you remove the back seat. This way you have room to swing the bottom of the door panel upwards. Then you can get at the lever at the exterior door handle and move it back.
GMdude
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Harry,
Forget about removing the door off it's hinges. To do this, you must be able to open the door first.
Keep trying my first way of opening the doors. Sometimes if the penetrating oil soaks in for a few days, the door will open. Spray, beat, and push the button. Don't beat so hard as to knock the handle off the door though. If you have a rubber hammer, that would be best. You could use your hand, but don't hurt yourself. You don't have to hit it that hard.
If you want to know what I'm talking about, when I say resistance in the push button? Try to open a door that works fine. Feel the difference? With the bad door, the thumb button goes in and out, like there is nothing there.
GMdude
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Your description fits my door symptoms very closely. Your first method sounds like an excellent way to go about solving this problem. I'll be patient for several days while trying it. Thanks so much for your advice. It's good to receive words of wisdom from someone who has been there.

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Harry,
Let me know if you get the the door opened. I post help on this group for free. The only sastisfaction I get, is to know that I have helped someone. That's enough for me.
I'm a mechanic, and I give advise to persons that seek it in this group, but only on the weekends.
GMdude
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I have the electronic suspension on my car which the dealer wants to charge me around $900 for to replace the front struts. I have been told that the replacements will not hook back up to the electronics and that there is a service bulletin that explains how to terminate the wire that hooks up to each of the current struts.
I would like to know what other brand of struts are available for my application that won't empty my wallet and also what the service bulletin says regarding terminating the wires. The bulletin is 00-03-11-001A AUG 00 Passive Struts - Use on Ride Control Equipped vehicle.
Any suggestions regarding alternatives to the dealer would be appreciated.
Thanks Andy
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Hi,
I have the weird problem with the odometer display: the total # of miles displays 3 numbers then switches to other two numbers, for example my car has 59483 miles, it would display 5 blank 4 blank 3 then around 10-30 seconds, it would display 9 blank 8. It also does the same with trip odometer (same display) and after starting engine it displays weird characters before it display as I described above. Anyone has ideas? the number is correct only thing you have to read it twice.
Thanks
Hai
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The "Odormeter".
I hope that this is a misspelling.
But come to think of it I had one of those on my 1977 Granada.
MIKE.....
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Have a '96 LeSabre with the 3800. Under light acceleration (no downshift) I can feel a 'jerking' from the engine. With a downshift and higher rpm it is not noticeable. A computer check by the dealer shows no problems. As an attempted fix, I replaced the sparkplugs and wires, no change. Has 56k actual miles and displays no additional problems, leaks, mileage change, etc. Any suggestions would sure be appreciated. Thx ! ! ! Gary
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Plug wires are usually the culprit in the case you described. Maybe one of your coils is cracked. GW
Zork wrote:

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The plug wires were replaced by the dealer by OEM wires, so it is unlikely they would be the problem....I think ? ? Would it make any sense to purchase a single coil and to replace like the old series xmas lites ? Plug it in, if no change, move it to the next, etc ? Thanks for your insight ! Zork ------------

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I never promote part swapping, but if you have the $$$$ it's not unheard of. I would remove the coils and ignition module and look closely for any signs of carbon tracking, a telltale sign of trouble. You may also find a hairline crack from visual inspection. GW
Zork wrote:

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I purchased my chevy metro in 1998 brand new. It was made in October 1997. Which year is this car, a 97 or 98 car?
It has run 71,000 miles. I lost its manual, thus cannot find out whether or not the time belt need to be replaced. I remember that its timing belt can last until 100,000 miles. If anyone happens to have the information, please share it with me.
Thanks.
Fuli Chang
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...or on the emmissions sticker. It says "this vehicle complies with motor vehicle standards for model year 199N" GW
Robertwgross wrote:

Fuli Chang wrote:

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http://makeashorterlink.com/?V1F3230D4
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