ecm temp sensor 2004 pontiac grand prix

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Sounds like a tough one, does the car have twilight [ zone ] headlights that stay on after car is turned off, or other features like autotronic dimming. Are you sure only one side
lights, or does one side glow brightly, and other side barely glows ? I had a nasty problem with my 81 El Camino that turned out to be a shorted marker light socket. Found problem when I cut wires in disgust to make, still another, test light. If I hadn't lost my patience, I may * never * have found problem.
Could also be funky directional switch, but even the worst ones going shut off with key. I hope it's not the printed circut !
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John,
Try turning the hazard switch on and then off. It could be stuck in between. If this doesn't work, replace the hazard/turn flasher module (GM # 25684395 , and about $31), and if that doesn't work, need a new switch.
GM dude.
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No
Dave
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I agree. Pull the intake and fix it right.
Al
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I wouldn't say simple ... It's something you can do yourself, but it's a pain in the arse

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In article
snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Harry Face) wrote:

It's carbureted, so it will be a maze of hoses, wires and solenoids cluttering things up, but it's do-able.
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* Nothing * short of replacing gaskets will do any good. Smear anything you want on the outside, the inside leak will ruin your engine. As for pour it in radiator sealer, it won't congeal [ sp ? ] in the oil rich atsmosphere of the manifold valley. Change gaskets, post back if you want helpful advice on * that * fun job. Change oil, use an engine flush [ Gumout makes an excellent one ] change oil again. Antifreeze forms some awful sludge that will shorten your engine's life. Might want to consider a better manifold to justify the labor, or stuff up the heat crossover with aluminum foil for better highway performance. Label hoses / wires, and photograph before dissassembly. I'd rather pay for [ one way or the other ] an intake R + R, than an engine R + R.
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*** post for FREE via your newsreader at post.newsfeed.com ***
You seem to be the master of understatement <sad grin>. I've changed on a '94 Astro, and it isn't fun, but it can be done. Needless to say, you've got to pull the engine cover and do some of the work from inside, and some from the outside. I managed it without a helper, but if you've got one it might smooth things out a bit.
Hang in there, Mark Sparge

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Located in so. California, near San Bernardino. The front end is damaged and the truck will run; however it cannot be driven, 454 bb with a 400 turbo trans. the engine has maybe 20,000 miles on a rebuilld. this engine is premium. doug thorley headers 3" dual Stainless 304 exaust, stock intake HEI, and rv cam, when I rebuilt the engine I installed 1968 bb closed chambered iron heads. complete w/ SS valves, If your looking for a 454 this is the running engine for you. Its complete minus the radiator, which was damaged call (909) 556-8129 or email: snipped-for-privacy@msn.com $1200.00
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92 Astro, 4.3, 4 speed overdrive How does the torque convertor get fluid? Is it only when you fill it when you have it out, or is it getting fluid transfer when the vehicle is running. Am replacing a convertor and want to be sure I have it full enough. Thanks
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Gary,
Your replacing a torque converter and do not know it gets it's fluid from the trans pump?
But more important, how did the original fail, if it did?
And when they do little pieces of fractured metal gets recirculated throughout the trans, by this pump, necessitating a complete rebuild.
Mike.....

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Being that engine coolant is a mixture of water and antifreeze. I suppose it is normal for some to evaporate off even when you have the cap on the reservoir tank fully closed (it evaporate through some small opening in the cap). My only concern is what is considered normal evaporation versus coolant loss due to some other underlying conditions in the car. Last time I fill up that reservoir tank (the one hooked up to the rad by a small hose) was back in February. Well last weekend (end of June) when I checked, the tank is completely emptied on cold engine. I have refilled it with a mixture of Dexcool/Water and now keep a close eye on it. What is your experience with coolant evaporation. When do you draw the line between what is normal evaporation versus "something is wrong!!"??
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Throne wrote:

No, a correct cooling system is completely sealed except for the overflow reservoir. With a hot engine, some coolant should flow into the reservoir, and then when it cools, it should be sucked back into the radiator. If my car lost one cup per month, I would be looking for the problem. There is no normal evaporation from such a closed system. The most normal way it is lost is with an over-pressure release, like from a radiator cap. Also, you could have lost coolant within the engine, but this leads to allegations about intake manifolds.
---Bob Gross---
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SN wrote:

On my 2001 Malibu, when new, a perfectly cool engine (overnight) would leave the coolant right at the Full mark, so just fine and dandy. After one and half years, this was no longer the case. I told the dealer and they checked for leaks (none, they said) and told me that "some" that evaporate, more so with the pink than with the earlier green. But the temperature needle was getting up higher than when new (never above the center mark). After two and half years, overnight, the coolant level had dipped even lower. Curiously, though, when I took it to the dealer for an oil change (two blocks away) and I showed it to him, the level was already at the Full mark... After a later overnight check, I found that even just a little bit of driving would raise it.
So I got a can of premixed PetroCanada coolant (adheres to GM standards such and such), and, while completely cool, added just enough to bring it again to the Full mark. It took maybe only about as much as one and a half cups of coffee.
Result: the temperature needle no longer goes much above the center mark, and now, when fully cooled, the coolant is AT the Full mark.
So, 2 1/2 years caused a loss like that. Is that too much? The answer is I don't know. But those are my numbers, anyway...
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93 Chevy 1/2 ton WT with 4.3 V6, automatic. 81K miles. excellent condition and maintenance.
I know it's never going to be a tire smoker, but I owned a similar truck years ago (recently bought this one) with a lot more miles that ran better.
Truck runs nice and smooth. Internally, engine is in good condition.
I had my reliable independent mechanic try to fix the driveability problem to no avail. So far...new plugs, cap and wires, everything checks to specs on diagnostic machinery. FI serviced, engine de-carboned (apparently some old GM TSB). New fuel filter. Has new K&N air filter. Truck is still a dog on the freeway, especially with the AC on. In fact, it is so gutless I am afraid to pass anybody if it requires me to go more than 70MPH. It also has what I consider poor throttle response off idle. If I drive it like I stole it it's OK but at low throttle it stumbles. At full throttle it seems to run fine all the way up through the gears. In normal driving it sort of feels like the timing is not correct, especially at higher RPMs. With the AC on it seems to lose all desire to pull. The slightest incline will cause it to slow down dramatically and start hunting for another gear.
Any ideas? I hate to take it to a dealer or another mechanic but I'm close to doing so.
TIA
Mike
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Well being a 93 that rules out a flat cam. It should have a roller cam. I would look at the exhaust system and the fuel system. Catalytic converter might be getting plugged up. Injectors might not be up to par. These engines are fuel pressure sensitive. Under 12 lbs and they will have minor drivability problems.

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thanks for those tips. both check out OK. Have also checked O-sensor, timing. nothing seems to make it any better.
any other ideas?
thanks
On Tue, 01 Jul 2003 11:56:32 GMT, "noname"

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You know that little thing you can buy from the hardware store which allows you to siphon a small amount of coolant (antifreeze/water) from the rad and the needles shows you how cold a temperature is before the coolant will freeze? CAn this device enable you to know the water/antifreeze mixture in your RAD?? Last time I read the package label at the hardware store, it doesn't seem to show this.
After couple of water/antifreeze refill to top up the reservoir tank, I think that I no longer know the true percentage water/antifreeze anymore in my cars rad. So I am looking for a way of figuring this out. Will this device enable you to read off the water/antifreeze mixture percentage? Or are there other devices made specifically for this?
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On 30 Jun 2003 10:53:31 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@mail.com (SN) wrote:

I believe the Prestone Anti Freeze Tester available in most US auto parts stores does have the mixture percentage as well as the amount of protection provided.
From my dealer rep... the same tester is used for both dex-cool and glycol..
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Throne wrote:

Are you trying to make a distinction between water/antifreeze and antifreeze/water? The little coolant tester simply measures specific gravity, and ideally the 50%-50% mixture is the best protection. The readings are similar for ordinary coolant or Dex-Cool.
---Bob Gross---
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