ecm temp sensor 2004 pontiac grand prix

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Even Lee Iaccoca admitted his management fell asleep after the minivan introduction. Don't blame the assembly workers for poor management. And explain to me why quality has improved for the big 3. The same
people are putting the cars together. In that small respect management has improved and pays some attention to quality.

to
of
do
hurts
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Maybe that explains why my 300M is solid and my Avalon is a rattle box.

assembly lines

or
shortest
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"James C. Reeves" wrote:

Add to this; Jaguar = Ford Land Rover = Ford Aston-Martin = Ford
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I got this Chev S10 PU, 4.3L, 1994, I got it for the kid, it was not running when I got it, stopped running on 495 in January and has been sitting since. After doing some obvious repairs, some wires, distributor cap work, starter and charging the battery, i'm at the point of further trouble shooting why it don't run.
What I have done so far - change the controller box, injectors. Checked fuel for circulation, but mind you the parts came from other vehicles. I cant seem to get the injectors to work, there is 12v at the connectors for the injectors, they just don't want to spray the gas into the throttle body.
What I can to do to get the motor to run is - by using an atomizer, manually spray gas into the throttle body, it tough to keep up with the flow to keep the thing running. I did this to verify that everything else works, now that I can run the engine, I need to find out how to get these injectors to work again. Any one have any ideas on what to check next?
Almost seems that there is another shutoff somewhere? Any help would be appreciated. ThankYou
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John Perry wrote:

Don't know about yours, but i think on some models if the oil pressure does not come up fast enough, it won't start. And i think its a different sender than the gauge. If you have proper fuel rail pressure, Its the computer telling the injectors to turn on (or not).
BOB
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Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail? Is the fuel pump running?
Also, try using a test light on the injector connectors to see if you're really getting power. Often the 12V power is constant and the ground connection is what is switched.
--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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Bulletin #01-08-56-005, "SMU - Revised Theft Deterrent Diagnostic Information", does not describe any specific problem, it's just a series of updates to the service manual diagnostic instructions, there are about 8 other bulletins with similar service manual updates on this vehicle for other sections of the manual.
Diagnosing this problem would probably involve reading any trouble codes out of the body computer module and starting from there..
--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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Robert, Do you have access to the following bulletins:
(i) 01-08-56-003: Security Lamp Illuminated on IP, Engine Stalls, No Start, DTC B2960 (Security System Sensor Data Incorrect but Valid) Set (Inspect and Repair Cause of DTC B2960); 1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC M/L Van Models (http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/arcv_pdf/7_01_e.pdf )
(ii) 01-08-56-004A: replaces 01-08-56-004; Security Lamp Illuminated on the IP, Engine Stalls, No Start, DTC B2960 (Security System Sensor Data Incorrect but Valid) Set (Inspect and Repair Cause of DTC B2960); 1998-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup and Utility, 2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 3500 HD Pickup, 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade (http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/arcv_pdf/12_01_e.pdf )
(iii) 01-08-56-003A: SOME CUSTOMERS MAY COMMENT ON SECURYTY LAMP ILLUMINATES WHILE DRIVING; THE ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START AND THE SECURITY LAMP IS FLASING; AND / OR THE ENGINE STARTS THEN STALLS AND THE SECURITY LAMP IS FLASHING. (http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/results.cfm for search criteria 2001 GMC Safari)
These URL's appear to have very specific problem descriptions, but nothing in the way of follow-up.
-- Peter
On Sun, 22 Jun 2003 19:50:28 GMT, "Robert Hancock"

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Hey guys,
For some reason, the fuse for the dash lights keeps blowing out on my 89 park avenue. It'll work fine for a day, or even a week, then it'll bloe the fuse. There's nothing else on the curcuit but the dash lights (which is a bit of a blessing really), and it's only listed to have a 5 amp fuse on it.
Is this a common problem on these cars, and what should I be looking for? is it just a short in the wiring, or does this car have the "circut board" for the lighting in the dash?
It's the stock, cheapie dash, by the way (no tach, no digital).
Also, I have a good dash from a 90 park avenue (analog, with the tach, oil pressure and volt-meter) that's gathering dust in a dead 90 park ave, is it possible to swap the dashes? (and make everything work, of course). I get nervous driving around trusting those idiot lights...
Cheers
Tony
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The dash is probably a printed circut, this is not a common problem, but can be a tough one to repair, once circut board is removed / unplugged hard to test.
As for the conversion, get the temp and oil pressure senders from the dead car. Your probably better off changing the fusebox and wiring harness from the dead car. taillight harness should plug in dead car's fusebox ok. My knowledge stops at 84 Chevy, but generally going from one model year to another isn't * that * bad. Gets ugly when putting similar model, built by another division's electrical parts in. Some color codes differ.
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It sounds to me like he was trying to sell you the Triad security system which dealers install to protect their lot. www.dealersecuritysolutions.com It is a wand type device that you must put near the antenna (usually near the light) that will allow the vehicle to start.
Sound familiar?

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Oftentimes, the motor is blamed when the wiring is the culprit. A good VOM helps. Most trouble is at master switch. Try holding passenger switch up or down while Master switch is operated. Next, remove passenger side kick panel, and see if power is present at snap connector that leads from master switch. Power = motor suspect, no power, = bad master switch, or wiring. No power ? Remove driver's side door panel to access switch, pay attention to wiring that passes through door. Oftentimes a kink leads to a break, but upon quick exam, looks OK. NO Power at plug, run jumpers to " male " connector that supplies power to window. hook jumpers to battery and try passenger side switch. Power at plug ? remove passenger side door panel, test plug that goes to motor for voltage. Voltage = bad motor, no voltage = bad wiring where passenger door wires pass through. That should about do it. One caution, read up on servicing procedure, some cars can be dangerous [ have springs ] that bite when component is unbolted, keep fingers away when jumpering motor !
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What makes you think Japanese Corporations operating in the US don't have to pay income tax on their US earnings?
Regards,
Ed White
snipped-for-privacy@mailcity.com wrote:

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I have seen adapters in the $50-60 range that will allow this, but there is a catch. You must have some type of "AUX" device attached such as the CD changer for this device to work. It basically uses the serial data from the auxiliary device to allow the radio to switch to the AUX mode then allows you to toggle between the audio output from that device or from another device of your choice (i.e. MP3 player). I can probably find the link again if you're interested. It doesn't sound like your vehicle is equipped with a factory remote cassette player or CD changer, so you wouldn't be able to use this adapter. I'm not aware of an adapter that would accomplish this without having the tape deck or cd changer installed.
Roger

(I
modulator.
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Can anyone shed some insight on the possible problem(s) of my turn signals not working on a 2001 Impala. The problem occurs after a rain or real humid conditions. They will work again once the rain stops and completely dries. It could take a few days. Both turn signals are inoperable. Any help would be great. Thanks,
Caddman Canton, MI.
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Could be bad ground, turn on taillights, are they bright, or dim. If dim, remove ground screw, clean terminal, replace screw with Stainless steel one, paint over to keep connection rust free. Two grounds are used, one goes to rear bumper, other one goes to radiator support. When grounds are known good, get spraybottle, add some water, and squirt around with signals going. Also check 4 way flashers, if they work ok, and lights are bright, problem could be under dash, if windshield leaks.
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snipped-for-privacy@mailcity.com wrote in message

I'm not familiar with the "jap" line. What sort of car is that?
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1stsource covers more items in some of the contracts than the manufacture contracts and you will NEVER have to pay as they give a credit card to the service shop over the phone for payment of the repair. You need only check around multiple service shops in your area to see if they are willing to call 1stsource and fax them the diagnosis. Some shops will not, others have no problems (it is more paying work for them).
The catch: They pay standard labor rates which are generally less than what a dealer charges so you likely will have to take the car to an independent shop to have 100% labor rate coverage. This can be a problem as the dealer is usually the most experienced and trained on the later model cars.
Then there is the bigger chance that the extended contract company for one reason or another will go bankrupt during the term of your contract. A very big problem and possibility. A concern you likely will not have to worry about if you buy the GM contract.
Dealers do have big profit in the contracts and you could get them to discount it some in order for you to buy it.
It is your money, you take your chances. David

source
less
comparable.
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My 1985 GMC Vandura's voltage meter is dopping into the red and the heater/air cond. blower is not working. I replaced the battery and alternator and it still is dropping! Does anyone have any ideas on what might cause this?
Thanks Brad
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You must have a short somewhere. With a voltmeter and the engine off, check the battery voltage with one lead disconnected and then check it with the lead replaced. There will be some voltage drop difference but a small one at that. Report back here.
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