ecm temp sensor 2004 pontiac grand prix

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I'd say bad body ground, based on heater blower not working. My 84 El Camino did that a lot, blower out, voltage dropping at traffic lights, dim lights. What I did was run a Ford starter cable from block to frame rail,
and moved negative battery terminal from alternator bracket directly to engine block. Chevys use a pathetic jumper wire that goes from battery cable to fender to ground body. For the ultimate in grounding pleasure, run a jumper wire from frame rail to radiator support, as for alternator, be sure brackets are cleaned to bare steel where alternator touches bracket, a poorly grounded alternator will soon be a dead alternator.
Once you are properly grounded, test throwback voltage using a VOM right on battery terminals. Test voltage, start engine, voltage should climb with engine running..
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Is there a trick to check the ECM codes using the electronic climate controls in a 2002 Escalade? On older Cadillacs, the driver's display would show any codes after pressing "warm" and "off" simultaneously. Thanks.
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I don't think it can be done on the '96 and later vehicles with OBD II, you need a scan tool..
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Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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If you are driving an Escalade, you have OnStar, push the button and they can tell you the code. Any time, any where.

would
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put
They've had them for awhile, too. My coworker bought a new Ranger in April of '02, and it came installed.
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in message

the six-speaker

2003 Chevrolet

anywhere.
Is there

My 2001 Cavalier with factory premium sound plays CD-Rs. I never have any trouble with skipping on any CD unless I hit a pot hole or go over some railroad tracks. I suspect the anti-shock isn't the best. I really enjoy the sound of the factory system. There has never been a time when I wanted it to be louder.
Brian
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I wonder if other GM vehicles are affected as well? The fuel gauge first acted up on my '99 Regal at 6,648 miles. The gauge would stay between 3/4 and FULL until the level dropped down to a few gallons, then the gauge would regain accuracy. The sender/pump assembly was replaced. This happened two more times before the warranty ended at 36,000 miles. The last fix has worked until this week at 66,000 miles and now it's gone again. I'm going to call the dealer that serviced it last and see if they can work with me in any way since it's been a repeat failure since I bought the vehicle.
UPDATE: Just called the dealer, but they no longer are affiliated with GM. They gave me the next closer dealer where they send their customers. I called and explained the situation. "Doyle" was very courteous and suggested I bring the car to him so he can verify the sender is the problem. He claims he will call GM and feels pretty confident they can take care of it given the circumstances. We'll see how that turns out. I would hate to have to pay for a part that failed on three seperate occasions while still under warranty. After 3 or 4 sending units, I'm determined that this car has a voodoo curse or the actual problem was never solved. Funny how it always works for a good while after the sending unit is replaced then fails again. The car has never had anything but Exxon gas from local clean, modern gas stations. (relative works for Exxon, so kinda biased)
Good luck to me, Roger

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I know that Shell had changed some additives and caused issues on Chrysler vehicles. I only use Esso gas and have no issues on my 2001 Buick Century or 2002 Toyota Camry

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http://edmonton.cbc.ca/regional/servlet/View?filename=sl_5272002 has an admission from Shell.
Just after the warranty ended, my 94 Yukon ran out when the gauge still read 1/4. The gauge reads hard over the top when the tank's full, only dropping after about 200km. I refill every 500km or so instead of relying on the gas gauge. It only reads true after a good cold night (-30C), but is soon back up to false positive. It isn't worth fixing.
XXXXX wrote:

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Frankly if GM is using shitty parts and the fuel companies are causing the gauge to fail, then they should pick up the repair cost irrespective of year and mileage.
I have seen other brand cars with 10 years and 300,000 miles and no problem and GM cars have issues after 1 to 2 years after the install of a new gauge.
What a rip from "America's Finest"

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zroger73 wrote:

Yes, that is the symptom of how things began in my 2001 Malibu.
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Is there a way to adjust the antenna trim on a factory Delco stereo in a 94 Pontiac Grand Prix? The AM doesn't pick up very well compared to the first radio I had in the car. I replaced the stereo to get a CD Player, but it is still a factory system.
Thanks, Bill
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I recently had the A/C fixed on my car and when I got it back the stereo displayed LOC and will not work. My parents are the original owners and know nothing about any anti-theft system. So I read the Owner's Manual and there is no mention of this LOC "feature" anywhere in the manual.
I've done a bit of searching on the web and found a method that involves holding down either the 2 & 3 keys or the Set key, but neither of these methods appear to work on this model. I suspect those methods only work on newer models.
Anyone know a way of unlocking this that will save me from paying the dealership $40? I wouldn't mind paying if it was my oversight, but the fact that there's no mention of any such system in the Owner's Manual just steams me to no end. I called the GM "Customer Service" line but they just referred me to paying bucks at the dealership. I explained to them that this was hardly fair given that there was no mention of this system in the documentation, and they blew me off.
Alternatively, if there's not a simple known method of unlocking the thing, how do I remove it from the dash? I don't see any obvious joints or screws. I bet the code is either maintained by NVRAM running off a small internal battery or on an EEPROM or FLASH which I can erase with my handy dandy EEPROM programmer.
Thank you for any helpful or humorous comments.
--
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If the code is unknown, there's no way to unlock it other than calling up Delco and getting the master unlock code for the radio. The trick with the 2 and 3 keys just gets you the number that you give Delco so that they can give you the code. It's an automated telephone system that's used, but you need a valid dealer code to access it.
If the radio has had too many attempts at the code, it won't even give you that number, then you have to let it sit powered up for a full hour before you can do anything more with it.
To get the radio out, you need to remove whatever dash trim covers the outside edge of the radio. There will be some screws on the left and right to hold it into the dash.
As far as unlocking it by nuking the memory chip, I would be surprised if the chip were not soldered to the circuit board, and most likely erasing it would just make the radio completely inoperative..
It's rather bizarre that the radio would have Theftlock on it but that it wouldn't be mentioned in the manual. Are you sure it's the original radio? Somebody would have to have programmed in a code to activate the Theftlock, too..
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Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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I managed to get the dash trim off. It turns out there were five torx screws holding it on, which I had overlooked before. I found the four screws on the front of the stereo. But there seems to be a strap or something on the inside holding it in, and I have no idea how to access that. Maybe if I could get the ashtray out...But from feeling around under the dash, it feels liek the thing is in a plastic sleeve, so I don't think that will help. I hate working under the dash. Arghh.

Desoldering the chip is no problem. Especially on something from 1992. I would first copy the contents and then nuke the chip. If that is catastrophic, I can then reprogram the chip with the original contents. Having one's own chip programmer is expensive but very convenient.

Well, I think it is bizarre too. Yes, it's the original radio. My parent's are the original owners. I don't think they've ever bought an after-market radio in their entire lives.
A nice service rep at a local dealership told me that the code is typically included on a little card with the car, but my parents were never given that card. They have all the paperwork for every car they've bought back to 1975. So the manual says nothing about theftlock and they were never given the code (presumably factory programmed) and GM still expects us to pay to get it unlocked. It's amazing so many folks continue to buy GM...
The one mysterious bit is that somebody would have to have programmed in a code to activate it. My parents never did as they had no idea the feature existed. The service guy said they sometimes came with a code programmed at the factory, so that would solve that mystery. However, my father says he's replaced the battery himself a number of times and never had this problem. So unless there's some capacitance in the thing and he replaced the battery pretty quick, it sounds like the theftlock somehow got activated on its own or the AC guys fiddled wtih it just wrong?
--
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It's also possible the radio is somehow confused - it could be that some models of the radio had the Theftlock on them and some didn't, just that the option was turned off on some of them, and somehow this radio has decided that it has Theftlock on it..
I've never heard of a radio having pre-programmed Theftlock on it - it always comes disabled from the factory, and you have to enter in a code to enable it.
Does it have the blinking Theftlock LED on the front of the radio?
As far as taking it out, it's likely that some of the cables on the back are hung up and preventing it from coming out, you might have to reach in behind to unplug them.
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Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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Working in the electronics engineering and service field for many years, I can tell you first hand digital electronics designs get confused often. It is a VERY common repair problem for many electronics manufactures.
Things like a glitch of noise on the power, bad ground connection, nearby EMP (like that generated by an MRI machine), nearby static discharge at just the wrong time, and many more can all cause electronics to be confused. Actually it is a changed code in memory or the firmware that really fouls things up.
David

.
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Here is a very good point.........
You have invested WAY MORE time and effort then the 40 bucks the dealer wanted.
It's amazing reading you posts, talking about desoldering the chip, fighting the dash board, calling GM, writing posts, all over the course of two days. And your still no where near finishing. You have no idea if the chip nuking will work!!
Are you that cheap that $40 is worth this much effort? You could have had this "problem" solved last week.
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I can understand where this guy is coming from. I do not think that it is so much as the $40 but the principle of the whole situation. My keyless entry remote to my car had been lost and I needed to replace it. The dealer wanted $75 for the remote and $50 to program it. I turned to the Newsgroup for suggestions. The final results were, I got the remotes on E-Bay for $10 and a user in the Newsgroup gave me programming instructions and it took all of 5 seconds and a paperclip to make it work!

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Well.....
Maybe he will let us know if a paper clip helps him............

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