ecm temp sensor 2004 pontiac grand prix

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Exactly. Thank you for your understanding. I will not pay GM for this. They never informed us that there was such a hazard built into the stereo that we paid for, nor did they provide the theft code. Yet, they will neither provide the info needed to undo this, nor provide the service to undo it without a ridiculous charge. No way am I ever giving GM any money. Of course, my parents will continue to buy GM cars as they always have, but that's their decision.
Additionally, despite having an EE degree, 1.5 years of experience designing semiconductors, great references and a 3.6 GPA coming out of school three years ago, I've been looking for work for the last eighteen months, unsuccessfully. So my time isn't worth a whole lot right now anyway, and a little project like this to take my mind off the depressing reality of the current job market is just fine. Of course, I don't count in the "unemployment" statistics, because like so many others, my unemployment benefits ran out a long time ago and you aren't counted as unemployed after that, despite the continuing lack of a job...but I digress.
I like soldering. I like desoldering. I like programming chips. The mechanical aspects of removing the stereo from the car are frustrating, but once I get to the electronic technician stuff, that will be fun.
Finally, I will buy a new stereo and install it, before I will consider giving GM any money. So, figuring out how to uninstall the stereo is a necessary step, whether I manage to hack the current stereo back into operation, or junk it and replace it with something else.
--
A friend will help you move. A real friend will help you move a body.

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You make a very good point! Maybe I am a little unclear about this whole thing.... Is it possible that all you need to do is enter a code to unlock it? Seems to me they would provide that as a Customer Service after you proved ownership. Furthermore, what does LOC stand for? Could it be an Acronym for Launch Operations Center? One suggestion is find the model and contact the manufacturer and ask them for advice. Keep posting in here and other Newsgroups.... Don't give up!
BTW I used to own a '92 Delta 88 and never had that problem.... Worse thing that ever happened to me was that I got that "Clean Key" Message and you would have to wait 3 minutes or so before the car would start. I now own a '91 Regency 98 but would be more than happy to to some research on this for you!

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On Tue, 24 Jun 2003 21:59:16 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@io.com (Jeff Walther) wrote:

You brought back the 1970's for me. When the Viet Nam war and the airospace industries declined. (For good reasons)

What do you do if they are surface mounted technology chips? Or propriety chips with secret markings?

And then realize that you have waisted all your time.

Now here you have solved your problem already. Life is full of learning experiences. Whether it be auto repair, or unemployment. You will learn from it all.
MIKE........
PS: I read in the NY Times last month that BMW is employing technicians at their dealerships and paying them >$50,000 to start. And have their own training program. Unbelievable!
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Simple, the electronics in the unit were 'confused' due to some glitch. Anyone with some real experience at the service end of consumer electronics can attest to how common this type of failure really is and that a full reboot/reset many times clears the problem.
Obviously your EE degree training did not give you any real world practical knowledge from the repair standpoint. When I worked at a consumer electronics repair shop, around 25% of the failures we would see were due to random electronics confusion problems. Usually some bit would get corrupted in the eeprom, sometimes the micro/system control would get confused due to some bad data getting to it, almost all problems were related to quick brown out conditions at just the wrong time.
David
wrote:

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Hi Jeff, Same thing happened to me. Never locked it, had it off battery for long periods of time - but one time it locked on me. I just assumed my kids did it. Here is what happened though, I had my old cassette player still so I put it back in, threw the locked one in the trunk - figured I would get it unlocked from the dealer one day or buy another factory cd. Well, several months later (and still broke enough to get it fixed) winter ended, since I work on Computers, I know that most bios (don't ask if you don't know) memory can be reset just by unplugging the battery - or if you are a video gameplayer, ask yourself, what happens to your saved games if you leave an old video game cartridge with built in ram laying around for awhile? You already know that answer..... Bingo! I put it in and the "loc" was gone!
Dennis

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Today, I made a really tight (almost 90degree turn, steering-wheel turned all the way left) and fairly fast left-turn onto a parking lot to avoid incoming traffic. After that the car makes a loud annoying sound everytime I turn the steering wheel (left or right), loud enough that other people outside will turn at look. I can't really describe the sound, it certainly is low pitch, almost like someone rubbing to piece of wood together, and it doesn't sound like metals are rubbing each other. So anyway, after turning the wheel for a while it wouldn't stop, so I turned off the engine and wait a few minutes. After a couple minutes I turn the car on again, and the noise seemed to subside, to almost unnoticeable, but not quite disappeared yet. So it seems there is still some noise whenever I turn the steering wheel now. What could be the problem and how expensive am I looking to spend? I can think of a few things but I could be wrong. Could it be steering pump is almost gone? could it be rack and pinion? or perhaps balljoint? I hope to hear some opinion and perhaps a method to track down where the noise come from.
Car Stats: 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 2.8L V6 173 engine, FWD, automatic, AC. has 169500km on it. Recent service: Transmission oil change about 5000km ago. Engine oil about 500km ago. Putted in a new alternator in April (did it myself). Car drives good otherwise.
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What kind of car ? Front wheel drive ? Rear wheel drive ? 4 x 4 ? All three use different suspensions.
My knowledge stops at rear wheel drive, my guess is suspect motor mounts, a wimpy mount might have caused the engine to move a bit, which affects everything, but looks fine upon casual examination. Put a jack under engine, and verify mounts are good. A transmission mount could do the same thing. As for front wheel drives, 4X 4 's and other non rear wheel drives, there are posters on this group who should have an angle as I have no knowledge in this area.
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Did you check your power steering fluid level?
========Harryface ======== 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~258,600 miles_~_~~_
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yeah... I unscrew the cap and looked at the tip of the thin stick and see that there is liquid on it, according to what I was told if you see there are some liquid on the tip it means its ok. Although i wonder if it is ok to fill the reservoir all the way to the top??
By the way, the noise I was trying to describe sounds like the hum from movies that has submarines in it. Almost every movie I see which has submarine, they will play this noise. Can't describe it but next time you watch tv show you will know what I mean.

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There should be a fill line on the stick attached to the cap, probably one for hot (H) and one for cold (C). It should be filled up more than just touching the end of the stick..
--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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On my 88 Celebrity with the 2.8, the full H mark I believe is around the middle of the stick, right where it starts angling upwards.
-Sam

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I fill up the steering fluid the other day, and it seems the noise is a less now. Maybe it was the steering fluids after all. Is it safe to leave it at that or should I take more preventative action such as having the steering pump checked etc.

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I, myself, wouldn't worry about it. Turn up the radio. GW
R2D2 wrote:

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Look at charging fittings R 12 uses a standard schrader [ tire ] valve, R 134A uses an Acme fitting, which looks like a compressed air quick connect fitting, and will have a red or blue plastic cap.
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I was watching a police chase show on TV a few minutes ago. A cop was chasing a '90 LeSabre at speeds approaching 120 MPH. Two questions:
1. Wouldn't this car have a fuel cutoff at around 109 MPH or were they not implemented on the '86 to '91 LeSabre?
2. If no fuel cutoff, then what is the top speed of a stock LeSabre? I assume you'd need to measure the speed externally since the speedo only measures 85 MPH (unless you have the sport or digital cluster).
Just curious - I'm really bored right now. :)
Roger
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My understanding is that pretty much all GM vehicles have had some kind of speed limiter on them, except for some of the highest-performance vehicles like the Corvette, Camaro and Firebird. Usually the speed limiter is set to correspond to the speed rating of the tires, though it's sometimes less when the vehicle is available with multiple speed-ratings of tires and the limiter is all the same.
The exact speed would vary depending on the vehicle. However, I think that at those speeds, the analog speedometer display tends to be inaccurate..
--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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The speed limiter on pre-'85 LeSabres was the boxy shape pushing through air. :-) Most likely the carb jetting for emissions/economy in the V-8s. My dad's '61 LeSabre had a limiter .. . a speed "buzzer" that could be preset for any speed. Scared the begeezers out of me the first time I heard it .. . thought I had dropped a tailpipe .. . sounded like metal dragging over concrete. That car had all the bells, whistles and buzzers (plus a reflecting mirror for the speedo). ..

not
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Sounds like "inflation" to me. Just like when they put a dollar value on drug busts.

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Lesabres are pretty quick cars. The ones I've owned (one 89 and two 90s) all cut off at around195kph (which is what, about 115 mph?), and at that speed, the car is panting pretty heavily (We have an old airfield near here that you can take your car out and rip'her down to play at stupid speeds without endangering anyone other then yourself :) ).....
I would think that even without the cutoff, the car wouldn't hit more then maybe 130mph, and then only if you had it floored for 5 minutes, going down hill, with a strong tail wind...... :) Also, you'd be running close to the rev-limiter at that speed.

not
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I'd check for a blown fuse, first of all (check both the fuse box in the left side of the dash, and the under-hood fuse box..)
--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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