ecm temp sensor 2004 pontiac grand prix

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Could be an internal leak from worn Intake manifold gaskets. or it could be an external leak. Even en external leak cold be burned off on the hot engine and you wouldn't notice it.
If you have a coolant level sensor it could have an air bubble traped around the sensor. Try tapping around its location. Sometimes just the coolant splashing around the bottle is enough to trip the light. Kind of a common problem.
========Harryface ======== 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~258,600 miles_~_~~_
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Checked the oil and nothing obvious there. Can't see anything externally, and even if it burned right off, I'd think I would smell the coolant, which I don't.
Took another look at the overflow tank and it's well within the hot / cold lines so I don't think the level is actually low. Leading me to suspect a faulty sensor ... but ... do you have any idea where the sensor actually is located?
Thanks yet again ... Phil
snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Harry Face) wrote:

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I missed the original message but had the same problem. Losing coolant slowly and didn't know where it went. This on a Buick Lesabre '93, 3.8 engine. We changed the waterpump which definitely was showing leakage at the bearing hole, but still lost coolant. Then when the alternator went bad, we spotted a damp spot behind it and discovered the fitting for the very small coolant hose behind the alternator was cracked and leaking where it couldn't be seen. The fitting broke when we tried to remove the hose and the threaded plastic part stayed in the hole. We didn't have an 'easy out' big enough, but purchased a "Heater hose coupler remover" #62200 by Lisle (http://www.thetooldirectory.com/main.asp ) Unfortunately that didn't work either since there was lots of corrosion in the thread area and it just slipped and made the hole bigger. Anyway it sorta proves that this is a common problem in GM cars. Mysterious loss of coolant in GM cars can be directly attributed to lousy engineering. The replacement fitting (metal) costs $13.00 for a problem that GM caused by putting a cheap plastic fitting into an aluminum block. What we finally did was get an old wood spade drill bit that measured 3/4" and heated it red hot. then inserted it in the hole where it melted a slot, top and bottom in the broken plastic piece right down to the top of the threads. With the piece cut in two, we were able to fish and hook it out without dropping it into the engine.
On Thu, 26 Jun 2003 00:44:30 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@bellsouth.net (Phil) wrote:

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I bet it will soon have the leaking intake manifold gasket. I replaced the water pump on a 1999 Olds (seeping through the lower weephole) and about a month later, he thought I did the water pump job wrong because it was still "missing" coolant. Turns out it was going into the crankcase. Pay attention to the coolant and it may save you a costly engine replacement in the future.
John
(Phil) wrote:

engine /

"smoke" from the

engine? I guess

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Is it not common that after replacement of a water pump have the alt. or pwr. steering unit go and vice versa once the tension on the belt has changed the effects snowball..
(Phil) wrote:

the
the
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"Paul Walsh" wrote

No, not really. Changing any one of those items has nothing to do with the tension on the belt. The belt tensioner handles that job.
Ian
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I can't seem to figure out which part (alternator, a/c compressor, p/s pump) that I'm supposed to loosen to change the serpinetine belt for my car. If anyone has any previous experience in changing a serpinetine belt on this particular car, I would greatly appreciate any assisstance. -- Thanks in advance.
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If it's like Momma's 91Brougham 5.7 litre there is a tensioner pulley that swings up or down and then you slip the belt off. Look for a small pulley with either a 18 mm nut on it or a square hole for a 3/8 or 1/2 ' drive ratchet to fit into.
========Harryface ======== 1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE ~_~_~258,600 miles_~_~~_
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What particular car are you speaking of? I know my 98 GM pickup has a tensioner pully that you slip a 3/8" ratchet head into and turn CClockwise about a quarter to third of a turn with one hand, and use the other to slip the belt off, then CAREFULLY release tension on pully. To replace reverse the procedure, but you will need to turn lots more than what you needed to remove the belt usually. Course not knowing what partiucular car you are speaking of i am just making a wild ass guess.

pump)
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wrote:

If I recall, the tensioner is to the right of the alternator. Turn the tensioner bolt (not the center one) clockwise to remove belt tension.
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I finally got to the part that I supposed to lift up using a 1/2 inch ratchet and was able to lift up the pulley so I could remove the belt and I have successfully replaced the belt. Once again, thanks to everybody who replied to my message and I appreciate you for your help.
Thank you, Mark T

pump)
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You loosen the alternator FIRST, check to see if you have a spring loaded TENSIONER on the car...all will be revealed

pump)
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you dont need to loosen the alt. take the load off the belt by moving the idler on the tesioner.
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the 4.9L ??? there's a spring loaded tensioner. pay close attention tot he water pump pulley bolts. they're famous for cracking the pulleys around the bolt holes on these, and the pulley usually gives out shortly after the new belt goes on. Chip
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I seem to to recall a similar post a while back about On-Star doing things that just aren't kosher. The simple answer is that although the On-Star hardware is capable of doing this, the software doesn't allow it. There is simply too much liability involved. On-Star doesn't "phone home" regardless of whether or not you are a subscriber unless the airbags deploy or, in some configurations, a "near deployment" event occurs.
Roger

insisted
"home"
one
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I call bullshit on that.. like the phone companies would be generous enough to give GM free phone service for such covert communications for non-subscribers..
--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
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I need some help here. I was trying to change the brakes on my 2000 Grand Prix but couldn't get the rotor off to get it turned. I got the pads out but the rotor was still held in place by the outer frame of the brake caliper and the bolts holding that one were very tight so I didn't want to force anything. How exactly do I get the rotor off? Thanks...
DC
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"Jdavecobb" wrote

Prix
the
the
How
You do have to remove that "outer frame" in order to get the rotor off. No way around it. The two bolts are very tight (they are loctited from the factory), but they will come off. I use a 30 inch swing handle with a good quality socket and they will come off.
Ian
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Ian,
Thanks for the quick reply. I had a wrench on them and was using a baby sledge on it but they wouldn't budge. I was afraid I was going to break something. Thanks again...
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Yes I've broken a few cheap sockets on them... on my friends 99 Cavalier we had to rig 2 bars up and jump on them to get his to come loose.
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