Fiero hydraulic clutch problems

Got the Fiero out of winter storage yesterday and the clutch had to be pushed 100% to the floor before the transmission would disengage. I bleed the system pulling new fluid through with a vacuum from the slave cylinder
and the problem is fixed...transmission disengages when clutch is depressed 50% or maybe 67% of the way to the floor. This morning it seems like the clutch needs to be depressed a little more before transmission disengages, maybe 75% to the floor. I'm guessing maybe bad (old) seals may be letting air into the system??? If so, whats needed to correct the problem? Any way of telling whether its in the master or the slave cylinders?
Dan
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depressed
way
Rarely do the master cylinders for the clutch go out in those cars. Depending on years and motor, it's the same slave cylinder as some other GM vehicles. Do not try a used one, as it will probably not last.
I know they are a pain in the rear to bleed. Yet you really should do this manually. Do not bench bleed them either.
Bleeding procedure I use. Pump clutch peddle 4 times, have assistant hold clutch to floor. Bleed and close valve. Then pump up 4 times, and repeat. Do this up to 15 times. Make sure you keep the clutch master cylinder topped off. If you still have little to no pressure, then pump 10 to 15 times. Increase number of pumps as time goes on.
A pump on the clutch peddle is from all the way released, then pushed all the way to the stop. Then released all the way.
On FWD J-cars I have found that a long T handle allen/hex key works best for the bleeder valve. Charles
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"Dan Kuechle" wrote

depressed
way
First thing I would do is check for leaks. The master cylinder will leak into the passenger compartment, so you'll need to stick your head under the dash and have a look. If you can pull the boot back from the cylinder, see if there is any brake fluid there.
Once you have figured out what you need to replace, you can re-bleed it your way if it works. I found that on these vehicles, you really need to bleed the system manually first, and then you must open the bleed screw and manually force the slave cylinder pushrod back into it's bore. This is really the only way to get air completely out of the slave cylinder because of the way it's situated.
Ian
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