I have a P0113 that I am trying to fix. I replaced the sensor first
since it was easy and cheap. The sensor looked fine and unfortunately
the check engine light hasn't cleared after 2 weeks (which should be
ample time). I replaced the air filter shortly before the problem
started, so I wouldn't be surprised if its caused by a bad wire or
connection. I have the factory repair manual, which has instructions
for troubleshooting this code, however I don't find them all that
helpful. I've determined one of the contacts has a good ground and
thats as far I've gotten. If I determine the other wire is shorted or
is open, how would I go about fixing this? (I do plan on stopping at
Autozone to verify that I'm still experiencing same fault and to have
them reset it, before investing too much more time) Thanks for any
pointers anybody can give me.
As a side note, can anybody recommend a good scan tool, or a good site
for researching my options?
The correct way is to reset the code and see if it comes back. You can look
at the circuit with a scan tool. Follow the instructions in the repair
manual closely. In the process look for places in the cable chewed by rats,
a very common problem. Do a google search on OBDII scan tools as there are a
lot out there. Just about all in the consumer price range are about the
same. Compare the specs on any you might want. Asking that question here
will just get you an answer from everyone that the one they have is the
if you are determined to chase obd2 codes yourself, first buy a good
scanner that has DATA STREAMING so you can see the info in real time and
make diagnostics with real info. not just some guy at auto shack giving
you a number to chase around..............the money you save from
replacing good parts will end up paying for a $150 scanner in no
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The PO113 code is described as: Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit
High Input. Meaning the the computer is reading a low resistance. Here
is a hook the I learned about temperature sensors: ("Temperature
sensors are like women." "When women are cold, they have high
resistance." "When women are hot, they have low resistance"). Here's
what could be going on. You could have a bad IAT sensor, which you
already replaced, a bad internal resistor in the computer, or an open
in the Feed(Power) wire, or Ground wire. We can eliminate the sensor,
and the Ground, assuming you checked the ground correctly as stated.
What about the Feed wire at the connector? did you get power. I would
recommend using a Voltmeter because the test lamp can damage the
circuit going to the PCM because the PCM regulates most sensor
voltages to 5 Volts. A check with the Voltmeter would be disconnect
the sensor from the harness, and connect the positive lead of the
voltmeter to the sensor feed wire, and the negative lead to the ground
wire of the connector with the sensor off and the Key in the On
position not Run. the reading on the Voltmeter should be close to 5
Volts. if you get this then the wiring and the PCM is providing a good
signal. If you get nothing the you have and Open in the Feed side
assuming that the ground is good. If you get more than this than the
PCM's internal resistor is shorted. Hope this helps.
On Apr 7, 2:36 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Thanks for your help. I measured 0 volts. I'm confident of my
measurement of a good ground. Assuming my PCM is fine and the problem
is in the feed wire, how would I go about fixing it? BTW I guess I
forgot to mention this is a 2000 Chevrolet Malibu.
What I don't understand is how somebody who thinks using a multimeter
to test for continuity between a supposed ground and a known good
ground is complicated figured out how to post in a newsgroup.
I was just trying to break my habit of being overly verbose. The wire
is closed in a large wiring harness that snakes all through the engine
compartment. I understand that I can open up the whole wiring
harness, and inspect the whole length of the wire, and failing to find
any apparent damage attempt to find the open by wiggling the wire and
looking for voltage or measuring continuity (between both ends of the
open wire, I have to make sure I explain everything in case somebody
thinks I don't know what I'm doing). If I'm lucky enough to pinpoint
where the open is I can splice in a good wire. Alternatively I can
just save myself the effort and replace the whole length of wire. Or
some might suggest replacing the whole harness, since in their
experience they've found that one bad wire indicates that others could
fail soon and its time and cost effective over replacing one wire at a
time. Or somebody may recommend that replacing the connector is a good
place to start from their experience. Or maybe the best solution I
haven't even thought of yet. However instead of wasting my time by
typing all of that, and the time of anybody kind enough to read it, I
chose to just ask "how would I go about fixing it", which really meant
"how would you (assuming you won't answer unless you have some
knowledge or experience) go about fixing it".
Posting in a newsgroup is easy. Trying to figure out what a person's
capabilities are when they ask an open question like "how do I fix it", is
something quite different. Maybe instead of trying to be a wise ass, you'd
take the time to make your posts consistent. On one hand you indicate you
have no knowledge (how do I fix it?) and on the other you want people to
have a confidence in your previous troubleshooting. You're either competent
or you're not. You have to be the one who clues people in on your
competence. The advice that you're ultimately given is going to be largely
based on that.
Wow. All of that, and it looks a lot different from what you originally
posted. You have to remember - most of us don't use our crystal balls on
the weekend, so we have no idea what thoughts run underneath of the words
you post. We simply go by the words you post. If you want a fair
understanding of your words, then you have to make them understandable.
As to your problem - I know of no known problems with looms that you should
be aware of. If you have a broken wire, then the fundamental
troubleshooting approaches of tracing it, and ohming it across its length
are your best starting point. Fix any discovered breaks.
Sorry for the attitude I just felt like you were giving me a hard time
so I decided to have some fun with it. I still haven't had a chance to
look at this problem any further. Thanks for everybody's help!
If it is a P0xxx code then the definition from the scanner should be
correct, as that is a generic OBD-II code. A P1xxx code on the other
hand is manufacturer specific and will need to be looked up in the
service manual for the car in question.
Assuming this thread is still alive: to trace a wire in the harness, you
can use a sharp-pointed meter probe to prick through the insulation at
various points between the PCM and the sensor. If you can find
something to support the wire while you prick it, it will be a lot
easier on your fingers.
It's still a PITA, but that lets you (a) test where it's relatively
easier to get at the harness, and (b) isolate the problem area. BTW, I
had a bad wire on my Cavalier, where the harness was rubbing on an
engine mount. OTOH, this car had had front end damage before I got it.
I have a 2000 malibu and I have the same problem with the air intake
was wonder if anyone had found out how to fix the problem
they were having. I
was thinking about replacing the whole wire harness
to fix the problem anyone
know what i should do?
Use a millimeter and trace it down to the wire that is failing and replace.
OH, you are guessing it is the cable. Trace it to the failure. It is a
simple circuit but could be anything from the sensor to the ECM. The value
the ECM is seeing can be seen on an OBDII tester.
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