flush brake fluid: master cyl and wheel issues

hi,
i am in the middle of flushing the brake fluid in my 97 bonneville ssei and have two un expected problems...
one how can i clean the master, i cant get to the front res with a
tooth brush...does it need to be removed?
two the rear wheel refuse to come off, yes, i removed the lug nuts :). i tried bashing them with a hammer and piece of 2x6 but i am concerned about damaging the silver cross rims...
one other thing, the manual says to do the read wheels then the fronts..being that the system is a diagional design, would it be better to do rr-fl then lr-fr?
thanks,
i hope to finish this today,
peter
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pm wrote:

UH, DON'T hit the rims. Hit the TIRES. If they are rusted on that bad then you just need to work on them some. You can also do the loose lug nut trick, Put the nuts on but don't crank them down. Drop the car down and push/pull the car sideways. That will usually break them free.
Once you get them off, CLEAN the mounting surfaces and give them a quick coat of paint to stop the rusting.

You do the rear because it is the longest line, Then you do the front. The brakes on that vehicle are not diagonally split unless someone changed all the brake parts to the earlier Teves Mark IV system.
A 1997 should have a Delco/Bosch V ABS system on it. You do have a scan tool that can access the automatic bleed procedure correct? You need one to do the bleeding on that system.

--
Steve W.

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Steve W. wrote:

i'll try this

sounds good'

they are not diag? that seems odd but what ever...

i recently got a actron autoscanner plus cp9180. i dont think that does any brake functions. are you saying that i can not manually bleed this car?
thanks for the info, peter

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pm wrote:

Nothing real fancy. I use the cheapest stuff I can find usually. Keeps the parts from bonding to the point you can't get them apart.

Nope, only the earlier systems are diagonal split. Many vehicles are not diagonal. Most of the ones with traction control cannot use a diagonal system by design.

You can BUT you won't bleed the ABS controller without being able to cycle the solenoids in it. As a result if ANY air gets in the system you're going to have a problem. There are some that you cannot even start to bleed without a scan tool to operate the system.

--
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wrote:

Spray anti-sieze works better than just paint. Paint scrapes off, falls off, fails.
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PeterD wrote:

The paint stays where it is needed though. Between the rim and the hub center.
--
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Tooth brush? Why?

Rotating the wheels would be a good idea from time to time. Spray the hub area with PB and let it sit overnight and see if that helps. Striking from the rear can help too, but make sure you are using jack stands and that the vehicle cannot fall on you.

No, follow the book.

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PeterD wrote:..

it looks like the previous owner didnt ever change the fluid and there is grime onthe inside of the mc

i didnt taking into account traction control...with tc, it seems the brake system cant be diag...
thanks, peter
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