I have a 72 Chevy Suburban with some custom gauges. All of them work except
my fuel gauge and my radio, which are both hooked up to the same post in the
fuse block. The post that they are hooked up to do not have fuse like the
rest of them, it just has a male post in the block. I have disconnected
those two things and tried them on another part of the fuse block and they
work great so I know it is not the inline fuses on them. The question is
that where is the fuse located for that post so I can replace it and get
everything working again?
Most likely a fusible link:
on a 72, look at the battery, from the positive cable will be a wire going
to a bakelite block. Then another wire which is the main fusible link, then
from that, there will be a branch circuit, to the horn relay, where there
will be depending on the options in the vehicle: 1 or 2 fusible links at the
Also, the 67 to 72 were known for electrolyses in the bulkhead connector
under the hood, behind the fuse block. If the fusible link check proves
well, then get a 7/16" deep 1/4" drive socket. Scrape out the smegma in the
hole in the center of the bulkhead connector, and loosen the bolt slowly,
the bolt will not come out of the connector.
So you'll have to jiggle and wiggle! Get CRC Electrical connector cleaner,
the small can, not the CD cleaner nor the lectramotive. The small can has
acetic acid in it, and takes the electrolysis away completely. Then get a
container of bulb grease from your favorite auto parts store, and if they
don't have a container, buy atleast 3 packets, squish it up in there good,
and all should work well!
I hope this helps?
Good luck and keep that old iron running, I love that body style!
Thanks for the advice you gave. Before I do all the tracing one thing I
should mention after reading your tip is that my horn rely and voltage
regulator have been removed and a newer style one wire alternator has been
installed in its place. When I did the conversion I do not remember seeing
anything that resembled a fusible link, but then again I wasn't really
looking for it at the time. I also didn't mention before that it used to
work then all of a sudden did not.
Thanks again and I will start the trace process.
There you go!
You took off the fusible link at the horn relay, now just find that wire
back at the harness, and feed it with a 30 amp fusible link ready made, or
get the specs for the length of wire needed to make a thirty amp. For the
brand you're using.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.