Fuse Box Help 72 Burb

Hi All,
I have a 72 Chevy Suburban with some custom gauges. All of them work except my fuel gauge and my radio, which are both hooked up to the same post in the
fuse block. The post that they are hooked up to do not have fuse like the rest of them, it just has a male post in the block. I have disconnected those two things and tried them on another part of the fuse block and they work great so I know it is not the inline fuses on them. The question is that where is the fuse located for that post so I can replace it and get everything working again?
Thanks John
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Most likely a fusible link:
on a 72, look at the battery, from the positive cable will be a wire going to a bakelite block. Then another wire which is the main fusible link, then from that, there will be a branch circuit, to the horn relay, where there will be depending on the options in the vehicle: 1 or 2 fusible links at the horn relay.
Also, the 67 to 72 were known for electrolyses in the bulkhead connector under the hood, behind the fuse block. If the fusible link check proves well, then get a 7/16" deep 1/4" drive socket. Scrape out the smegma in the hole in the center of the bulkhead connector, and loosen the bolt slowly, the bolt will not come out of the connector.
So you'll have to jiggle and wiggle! Get CRC Electrical connector cleaner, the small can, not the CD cleaner nor the lectramotive. The small can has acetic acid in it, and takes the electrolysis away completely. Then get a container of bulb grease from your favorite auto parts store, and if they don't have a container, buy atleast 3 packets, squish it up in there good, and all should work well!
I hope this helps?
Good luck and keep that old iron running, I love that body style!
Refinish King

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the
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Thanks for the advice you gave. Before I do all the tracing one thing I should mention after reading your tip is that my horn rely and voltage regulator have been removed and a newer style one wire alternator has been installed in its place. When I did the conversion I do not remember seeing anything that resembled a fusible link, but then again I wasn't really looking for it at the time. I also didn't mention before that it used to work then all of a sudden did not.
Thanks again and I will start the trace process. John

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There you go!
You took off the fusible link at the horn relay, now just find that wire back at the harness, and feed it with a 30 amp fusible link ready made, or get the specs for the length of wire needed to make a thirty amp. For the brand you're using.
Refinish King

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