Hard to unfasten sparkplug

My sparkplug is very difficult to unfasten. Three of my four sparkplug do not unfasten from the engine's top. I use very high force ΄to unfasten them
but they are not unfasten, I tryed both with cold engine and varm engine - the do not unfasten. What should I do for unfasten the sparkplug without broken them in their enginehole in the enginetop. Please help me.
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Soak with penetrating oil for a few days. Warm engine up, apply liquid nitrogen to sparkplug base (but not to cylinder head). Remove.
or.
Purchase good Snap-On Socket. Connect to Johnson bar, Put pipe extender on, Unscrew plug & threads. Drill out spark plug hole while maintaining positive air pressure in cylinder. Install Heli-coil to replace stripped threads. Put anti-seize on new spark plugs. Pray that no metal bits fell between the piston & cylinder wall, start engine.
Years & years ago we used to use R-12 to cool the plugs but that's a huge no-no nowadays. Only hospitals are allowed to dump CFC's into the atmosphere nowadays.
Good luck
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wrote:

If you don't have alternate transportation, be prepared for fixing the stripped hole if necessary. Try the penetrating oil treatment the day before attempting removal again. Make sure you keep your wrench straight so you are not pulling the plug sidewise. Use the bar extender if more force is needed. Good luck.
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Full_Name wrote:

It isn't quite as cold, but try a can of compressed air for blowing dirt out of PC proccessors and keyboards and such. The trick is that you must hold the can upside down so the liquid comes out instead of the gas. Don't spray it on yourself unless you like frostbite.
As far as CFC's, I read that the the proccess used to make the engines for the space shuttle released more CFC's than everything else in the states.
--
Tony

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Thanks for your ansver. Do you think Startspray could done the job, its also cooling that its sprayed.

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The goal, is to contract the metal of the sparkplug base from the head. So. If the Start spray (likely ether) is used to cool the plug faster than the head you must ensure that it only lands on the plug (perhaps make a paper funnel to surround the plug at the base). It is the difference in temperatures that "should" allow the plug to come free.
Another thing that is sometimes tried is using a shock wave in addition to the force to aid in the removal. "some" ratchet's allow you to apply torque & strike the piece connecting through to the extension or the socket. They tend to have a lever along the handle portion of the rachet to change direction. If you don't have one explain to the tool guy what you're looking for. (Or use a Johnson bar).
Good luck.
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If you are unfortunate enough to twist off one of your spark plugs, here is what worked on mine (a longer story that I attempted to post did not come thru.... perhaps because it was a "cross-post"?)...anyway, here is the short version: The remaining shell of threads in the head was heated to cherry-red with a small tip on an oxygen/acetyln torch. I then immediately sprayed them with a cold spray labelled as capable of -50 deg F (purchased at Radio Shack). Then used a square type tapered bolt extractor (some might refer to it as an "easy-out") size 5/16", to successfully screw out the remains of the spark plug.

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do
them
Aluminum or iron head? Soak the plug bases in carb cleaner to soften the carbon in the threads, then use plenty of PB Blaster or similar once they break loose. It seems counterintuitive, but it often helps to tighten a frozen plug(or bolt) a bit, before trying to loosen it. Once it starts to move, keep working it back and forth rather than trying to back it all the way out. H
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