Heater Core replacement 95 Blazer - not a do-it-yourselfer?

That does seem high to me Don, but bear in mind that the price probably includes more than just replacing the heater core. I would not be surprised if it included a coolant system flush. Time to replace the heater core should be under two hours. There are no special tools involved, but if you're not the most mechanically minded person, then use your own best judgment as to whether you should tear into it or not. You'll spend some time on your belly and on your back, on the floor boards of your vehicle, and you'll probably invent a couple of new words along the way. All in all, it's not one of the nastier jobs, but it's a job. The under the hood part is a walk in the park. Get yourself a Haynes manual from any auto parts store, and you can look at the process in it. You'll see what's involved, and then you can decide from there.

thanks Mike - I have looked at a couple websites w pics and they have the entire dash pulled apart.........

thanks Mike - I have looked at a couple websites w pics and they have the entire dash pulled apart.........

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I saw some pics like that too. The last one I did was a couple of months ago and I certainly did not pull the entire dash. This was a 94 Olds Bravada, which is essentially a Blazer. Took off the trim covers under the dash, but left the dash fully intact.

Maybe I will pull this thing apart a bit before i take it to the shop then..............I just had half the bottom apart a few weeks ago to replace a flasher bulb and it wasnt THAT scary,,,, Thanks again Mike!

I havent done one on a GM in recent years but recently did my own Dodge full size van. It took me a couple of days, because even the Chilton type shop manual did not give the exact procedure.. A lot of it was grope and swear.

BUT ..I worked slowly and methodically and got it apart. Putting it back together was a piece of cake.

The 94 is the old style dash and interior. The 95 is the PIA mess that you have to pull the dash loose to get the core out. It isn't real hard BUT there are a few hidden fasteners that you need to get to. Not sure if a Haynes will cover that.

Basically the dash assembly gets unbolted and lifted up and back to give you room to work. You pull the trim panel off the dash. Disconnect the switches for 4X4 and the lights and such on the left. Remove the heater control panel and the radio. Remove the lower trim panels from the dash. Use a thin prybar to remove the defroster duct grill. Remove the speaker grills. On top you will find 4 screws for the dash. One in each speaker hole and one on each side of the defroster hole. There are three along the bottom and one on each side of the dash. To make removal easier I suggest lowering the steering column (two bolts). Once you have the dash out of the way just remove the screws holding the heater core case together and R&R the core. Make sure you clean the plenum if you had any leakage. Then reverse the procedure to put it back together.

I have done a few cores on the early and the late versions. The 94 is easier BUT the dash comes out easier in the later models. Kind of a toss up on time.

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Great write up Steve. I was not aware of the change up in the dash. What a pain in the butt.

That was just one of the "updates" that makes them special. I just picked up the gaskets to do the intake on the 97 (it beat the average and has 175+ on it). Then yesterday the wife tries to leave for work and discovers the fuel pump in the 02 died. Just got the new pump and will be dropping the tank later. (it went 121K) Gee I'm so glad she just topped the tank off.....

At least the pump in that is a pretty easy job. Not withstanding the full tank of fuel, of course. Did you buy just the pump, or the complete sender?

Replacing the module. The level sender was acting up as well. Got a new Delco unit for a good price.