I ran injector cleaner through my caddy, now it runs like crap

I didn't think about the pressure stuff... just the noise from his pump is pretty obnoxious. Good thing you can't hear it over the headers. ;)

Reply to
Ray
Loading thread data ...

I ran two GPS-110's in my car:

1 for each dominator, and that pig ate fuel like it was water, but for the times it ran, and only being a 396 it was all worth it.

Refinish King

Reply to
Refinish King

Why are electric in-tank fuel pumps vehicle and engine specific? Glad you cared enough to ask:

#1. Amount of fuel needed, GPH (Gallons Per Hour) required to keep the fuel pressure high enough. This varies by fuel line size, and length.

#2 Wiring & Voltage. Not all vehicles of the same model are wired the same. Nor will all of them supply the same amount of power to the pump.

#3 Sending Unit Type. Not all sending units are the same. Some are short, and skinny, others take a tall and fat pump. Design specifications from the pump determine size of the pump.

#4 Type of pump. Some pump systems include a frame rail mounted fuel pump as well. Most common on fuel injected Ford Trucks and Vans.

#5 Amount of fuel thru-flow required to cool the pump. Put in a pump that need more fuel thru-flow then the rest of the system will allow and it will burn out the motor, and over heat the gears. As well as cause a resistance, electrically that can cause wires to melt.

Reasons NOT to use cheep replacement electric submerged fuel pumps:

#1. Adaptations of Designs to work in multiple vehicles. Basically they figure if you put XYZ number of amps & volts to this model of pump, it will flow this much. If you change those factors to ZYX it will flow this much. Yet if you go YXZ it will really pump.

This is one of the reason such pumps fail early. They are not designed for your specific application. Longevity of the part past their minimal warrantee period is not good. They want a vehicle owner to buy a pump every 2 years.

#2 Wiring. Most Multi-fit pumps you have to connect your own wires at different points depending on what your installing them in. As well as hack and splice the wires off your old pump. A good brand Direct replacement pump will be a simple remove wiring connector, and plug back in. No wiring modifications required.

#3 Modifications to sending unit. Multi-Fit pumps are not made to fit your sending unit, they are made so they will work in 100+ different sending units (atleast the exterior case). You more often then not end up banding the sending unit to fit around it, or having to cut and modify it. This can lead to fuel gauge float issues. A Good quality Direct Replacement will not require you to do more then move the tabs, and put them back with in 1/16th of an inch.

#4 Pump Gears, Insulators, & Pump Motors. More often then not, these parts are made from the cheapest materials the manufacture could get. Made to a fraction of the quality of what was OEM. Assembled in foreign lands, with little to NO quality control.

A good Direct Replacement pump is a whole different beast. Made to OEM or better specification. Proper size, Flow, Thru-Flow Cooling, proper wiring, designed to last as long as OEM or exceed OEM pump life spans.

I could go on, but I would just bore you. Charles

Reply to
Charles Bendig

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.