Lower manifold gasket observations

12mm Flare nut wrench?

I guess Lisle has a tool out now for the shortcut, no tool dealers around here anymore though.

I use an 11mm one that seems to work good. One of the guys in the shop has the special tool, and it works nice, but it's not particularly necessary.

Ian

Yes, good advice.

I haven't seen the FelPro gaskets. We couldn't use them anyway... warranty issues. Doesn't mean they aren't as good or better...just that we have to use what GM provides.

Yes.....I usually start the diagonal bolts that do line up...usually the two that go into the rear head....by hand and then use the middle bolts to suck down the manifold until the other diagonal bolts can be started by hand. Which you learned by experience.

Probably. Why don't you feel good about the end sealant? The most important thing is that the intake and block surfaces should be spotless and dry. I usually soak part of a rag in Brake Kleen and then rub both surfaces until I don't get any debris appearing on the rag. I've seen way too many "comebacks" from techs that neglect this step and their RTV ends up leaking within 6 months. GM will not do a parts warranty repair on leaking RTV....so the shop eats it.

I use a Snap on 10mm swivel in conjunction with another Snap on swivel (no socket end on this swivel...which allows you to double up the swivels...amazing where you can get to with this setup). As far as the "desired" torque....you might be right....but I really don't care. GM doesn't pay me enough to be worried about 6% torque one way or another. Sorry, an old flat rater talking here!

Ian

Curious, what brand is your 11mm? I can't get it to slip over to the end by the pushrod, but the

12mm works fine.

It's an old Craftsman wrench, 10mm on one end and

11 on the other. I think I bought this wrench back when I first started in the trade. Hardly use it because it's really a poor quality flare wrench. The Snap On flare wrenches are much better. But hey, it finally has found its niche in life

Ian