Moving dimmer switch to floor

Olds Intrigue apparently has defective dimmer switch. It is column-mounted, and multi-function, running the headlights and turn signals also. On low beams, it is okay, -- but push the lever forward to activate
the high-beams and you have no headlights, and the high-beam indicator light doesn't light either. The switch is expenive, about $200 give or take, plus the considerable hassle of changing it (dealing with airbag, taking apart column, figuring out how to do all that etc). Meanwhile, the old floor mounted dimmer switches are about 15 bucks. It is tempting to just hook one of those into the system instead, just take the cordless drill and use a couple self-tapping hex-head screws to mount it onto the floor. It would be faster, and way cheaper and easier. Per the wiring diagram, it looks pretty straightforward to cut the wires running to the stalk switch and run them to the new switch (may have to lengthen them of course). This is my basic run-around car that nobody else is likely to ever own. Fifteen bucks versus ten times that much, and a half hour versus ??? (and risk of breaking something else etc). Anyone see any reason not to do this?
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On 2/13/2012 4:15 PM, blowout preventer wrote:

No reason other than a remote chance it won't pass safety inspection, but at least around here the driver/owner operates the controls so they'd never know.
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On Mon, 13 Feb 2012 13:15:04 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@msn.com (blowout preventer) wrote:

Under the circumstances, I'd go for it. Alternative is some sort of toggle mounted to the steering column.
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I always preferred the old foot-operated dimmer switch anyway. I don't always drive in the 10-2 position, and I liked the way all you had to do was basically twitch your big toe to change beams, didn't have to move your hands. Or even your foot. Yes, I am THAT lazy. Plus, look how much cheaper an easier it was to change a worn out swith. What was the reason behind all US mfgrs going to the stalk switch (and pretty much all at the same time IIRC) ??
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On Mon, 13 Feb 2012 17:55:51 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (James Goforth) wrote:

It is one of those things that became a standard in every car, just like PRNDL has.
Floor switches were subject to corrosion from wet shoes and salt residue in the rust belt. With a stick shift, it is difficult to change the light while depressing the clutch.
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On 2/13/2012 10:52 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

PRNDL was mandated by the Federal government. I'm not sure that the location of the dimmer switch was.

Yes, but column mounted switches also suffered problems too. It is easy to have one's hands busy and not be able to dim the lights just like with the floor switch. I think they caught on mostly because of Europeans, and their being able to flash the headlights instead of sounding the horn... A trick that is very difficult to do with a floor mounted dimmer switch!
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On Mon, 13 Feb 2012 17:55:51 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (James Goforth) wrote:

I always prefered the foot switch too. Even if they go bad every few years from corrosion, it's still 100 times easier and 10 times cheaper to change them. I get really tired of moving my hands everytime someone comes toward me at nite. With the foot switch, I could just keep my foot right at the edge of it. Worse yet, is if I'm doing something like snacking while I drive, and have one hand full of food and have to try to move the other hand to hit the dimmer. There is a sharp turn in the road near me, and at least 5 times a week, I have to dim my lights while steering that sharp turn, because the other car can not be seen till they are on th curve, due to the hill alongside the road. I'll take the old foot switch anyday, and still have one in my old beater farm truck.
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Bill wrote: "How do you know the problem is with the switch? Did you use a voltmeter to test for voltage at the light connectors? Maybe the high beams are burned out on both lights?
And did you use a voltmeter to check for voltage at the steering column wires? Perhaps the switch is working, but there is a problem after between there and the headlights? Relay? Wiring? Connectors?" ************************************** Thanks Bill, I tested for voltage at the bulb sockets and I think there is voltage there -- IIRC there is voltage to them all the time, and either the switch grounds it, or it routes to the BCM which grounds it, it's been awhile since I first looked at. I have been driving it like this for some time, as it's not a huge deal, driving in town, etc. I messed with it when I first got it, to diagnose what it needed, which is when I discovered the switch is pretty expensive -- and hence a floor switch would be so much cheaper, easier etc. The headlight bulbs are good -- plus the high beam indicator doesn't light up either, indicating that whole circuit isn't getting energized. I had also posted it on the internet and the consensus was that the switch is bad. Maybe it's a somewhat common thing. If I was going to put in a floor switch, I would, at the beginning of that process, do some further testing when I dug out the wires involved in the operation.
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