OBD-II Code P1374 on a 1996 Olds Cutlass Ciera 3100 (rough idle/skip/dies)

Have you checked for a leaking intake manifold gasket? They fail all the time on the 3.1/3.4 l GM engines and can cause all sorts of weird problems. Also check carefully for any signs of water in the oil. The first place it becomes visible is as a milky sludge on the underside of the oil filler cap.

John

You should have started with the Ignition Control Module, but hindsight is

20/20 right?

Steve

I learned that pretty quick. I also find ALLData easier to navigate.

Steve

Driving? What do you mean driving? We can't even drive this thing, as soon as you take your foot off the gas, it dies :)

Constant, you can definitely hear the skip when you rev the engine.

Both. Have not checked EGR yet, thanks for the idea, will add to the list.

Yes, as part of the tuneup the intake was cleaned out with carb cleaner. Have not found any vacuum leaks yet. This thing will be either fixed or going to a pro soon before we rip the rest of our hair out!! :-)

-GV

Interesting stuff, thanks.

-GV

Oil is fine, it was just changed, thanks for the idea though.

-GV

Maybe, in our travels with this vehicle thusfar the signs and advice (from local mechanics and some internet research) have both pointed to and away from the ICM.

-GV

gm is absolutely notorius for ICM failures!!just got a 94 cutlass that supposedly had a bad head gasket and it was THE ICM!!most kinky GM prolems are ICM or ECM(computer)and dont forget INJECTORS!!get em from the bone yard,save a buck!!good luck!!

another thought,fuel contamination?will it run on a direct shot of spray start?

Funny you mention that because the shop around here said that the ICM rarely goes bad on these cars ;)

One thing I forgot to mention in my original post was that the car has somewhat of a hard start too, seems to take a lot more cranks than it should to start, but it does start. I've got another car with the same motor and it doesn't take anywhere near the amount of cranks this car does to start.

Well, it runs regardless once it gets started, it just runs like crap and it's not actually driveable.

-GV

Replaced the ICM, runs a little better, still skips, still throws the

1374 code. Anybody care to take a wager on the cam sensor?

-GV

The odds that replacing the 24x cam sensor will repair a P1374 are way too high, so I will pass on that wager.

If you got through the diagnostic chart and found that you had to replace the ICM, but it didn't fix the problem, you must have missed something. You'll have to go back through and check all 3x reference signal circuit wires and connetions as outlined in the diagnostic chart. I also notice that the coil packs should be inspected for cracks/arcing/carbon tracking/damge.

Steve

the ICM doesn't go bad on these cars!?!?that engine is in alota cars!!statement must be a personal opinion.ask your boneyard how many they sell!say you spend 50 on it.still cheaper then takin it to a pro.another thing.it wont show up as a check engine light fault.but if you have another car with the same motor.swap the ICM!(coilpack).if from different year check with parts store if same before effort or look at connectors.and the hard start(intermittant) on my last trouble car was the crank sensor.you changed that.has the car always been a long start!?how many miles on it!?does the timing ever jump on these engines!?i think that's what's rare!3800's are more common!

We replaced the ICM, the car still is not running properly and the

1374 code is still present. The coilpacks all check out fine. Already replaced the crank sensor, car still starts hard. 80k miles on car. Don't know about the timing jump problem? We're looking at the possibility of a wiring problem right now, but this thing is getting closer and closer to heading to a shop for full diagnosis, it's definitely something that needs to be pinned down and is falling outside our realm of expertise.

-GV

You don't happen to have the "Wiring Repair in Electrical Diagnosis", or equivalent, do you?

-GV

maybe you should consider the conditions/actions prior to/during the conk out.for clues.and fuel pressure.anybody put additives in tank prior to conkout.can mess with injectors.how about injector voltages/pulses.did you say it ran better with replacement ICM?where did it come from?was the swap not available?(sure thing proof).you coulda got another bad one?change the computer?popping cyl means misstimed fire or lean mixture.like i said before.all kinky Gm problems for me have either been ICM ECM or injectors for the symptems you describe.but he first question i always ask anyone is if car has recently been worked on or any special things been done out of the ordinary.and then ask conditions during problem developement or event.i remember a vw golf my daughter had that had a rough intermiitant idle and stall problem and i finally after 6 months got a sub computer to try and when i pulled the large connector i saw one of the wires had come untrapped from the connector and so was making intermittant contact .WHO KNEW!!and it was smothered in grease but i still caught it!of course this was while removing test computer that failed to fix problem!