Oil Change Techniques

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What is the advantage of doing this? What difference does it make if the engine is turning over due to the starter motor or combustion? The parts are still moving and if they don't have an ideal amount of oil yet, it matters not what is actually turning the engine over. At least that's what I'm thinking. Where am I going wrong?
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Re: Oil Change Techniques

you could yank the distributor and use an old distributor shaft in a drill to drive the oil pump without rotating the engine. Pre-filling the filter cuts the time it takes to build pressure down to about one second and that's sufficient.
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Hi. I think prefilling the filter is just the thing to do then.
On Thu, 5 Feb 2004 00:56:32 -0500 (EST), snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Rich B) wrote:

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foolspicedham_melbo snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com says...

Thats fine so long as you own a vechicle that you can do that with. Sideways mounted remote oil filters make that next to impossible. Just everyone should be sure to locate and eyeball that oil light or gage when they first start it.
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Of course. The oil filter on my LS1 is on the bottom. I've been having the garage change my oil and filter but I used to do all my own oild changes in the past on different vehicles. I probably will again as the weather gets warmer and my car is out of waranty. I used to have a 280ZX which had a sideways mounted filter and it was a message just taking it off!

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Do you want hammer like blows pushing down on the pistons forcing the oil out from inbetween the bearings with no oil to replace them? Normal drag should keep enough oil in place and prevent scuffing of the bearings until oil pressure is built. Yeah it may be anal but hey if you dont plan on keeping your car past a 100k then why would you care? Cold starts alone are said to be the biggest wear factors on a well maintained engine. So after an oil change or long periods between running my car I like to get oil flowing first before actually fire up my engine. The idea of bearings rubbing against the crank journals isnt a happy thought. This is just what I practice with my cars when I perform oil changes.
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Any good oil will survive on engine surfaces long enough to prevent damage. I have never had an engine in one of my vehicles go less than 200,000 miles and I only pre-fill the filter. If you want to do more, then put on a costume, call the local Sha-man and do a dance around the campfire to ask the spirits to save your engine.
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net says...

If you can prefill a filter that lays sideways like in a fwd blazer then good for you! Dont be an ahole and mock people who do things differently than you. Someone asked about how to do a clear flood and I answered it.
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My thoughts exactly on the S-10 and Blazer sideways-mounted filter. I can see mine making a mess when removing the filter, and the new will have to get installed dry...
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Those design wizards at GM did the same thing on my 94 Deville with the 4.9.
Wir welle bleiwe wat mir sin (Letzebuergesch)
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with the filter mounted upside down on top of the engine. I've never changed one of those so I don't know how messy it would be.
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I simply just make sure the engine is warm, then let the oil drain for a quite a while, change the filter, (I lube the ring as well) and pour in new and I'm done.
I have a '95 Quad Four, in which the filter is mounted sideways. I like the idea of prefilling, but as mentioned, it's not always possible.
Anyway, the nylon gears wore out. But that's expected no matter what. Otherwise, I haven't ever experienced an oil related problem on any car.
Rich reminded me of a friends car. I can't remember the name for the life of me. It stared with an "F" I believe. Anyway, it's a '63 with a straight six, and the filter is right at the top, facing straight down.
Tony
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Hmmm I remember the AMC Javelin, Gremlin, Marlin, Ambassador, Eagle, Talon and Classic but I can't remember one that began with an "F". Aywho, the old Rebel engine that was used in many of their cars was very rugged and you could easily impove its performance but most guys ignored them (because of the car they came in I guess).
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Oh, one last thing. I could be very wrong, but I do beleive that AMC owned this company or the other way around. Anyway, I believe there was a connection between the two.
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I'm wracking my brain to remember if it was thus on my old 72 Ambassador with the 360. Man that car was a good'n!!!!!
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engage in rituals that may or may not be beneficial. My daughter's 1987 S10 Blazer 2,8L V6 has the filter installed dry every time and it has 210,000+ miles on it and is still going strong. The engine has only been touched once and that was to replace the broken nylon timing gears. Most people will agree with me when I say that the 2,8L is not noted for its dependability or longevity (and I can guarantee you that the vehicle sees very little maintenance other than regular oil changes and lubes). To sum up my assholean comments, sometimes less is more.
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"Bonneville" wrote

Bonny...relax. Give your advice...and let it go at that. Really....all this stuff about special techniques when changing oil amounts to nothing more then stuff that will make "you"....the oil changer....more comfortable. Rich is right, the oil film on the parts will easily protect the components until you get oil pressure. I've been doing this for years, and most if not all vehicles will get full oil pressure (even with an unfilled oil filter, as I don't prefill oil filters) within 2-3 seconds. The guys that talk about all the wear happening when you start the engine are probably right, but I think they overstate their case. They are the same ones that want to sell you a prelubing kit. It's ridiculous. I've had engine apart at well over 150,000 miles that have had "no" special procedures done at oil change...and their bearings are "fine".
Ian
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"Rich B" wrote

Heh heh....I like it. And I agree with you.
Ian
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I never meant to imply that it was too anal. My question was genuine. I just didn't see a difference in what made the engine turn being relevant to needing to turn things to get oil pressure up. I might be dense but I still don't really see a difference. But then, I'm not much of a gear head either. I thank you for the idea but I think I'll just prefill the filter and call it at that.

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Either way will get oil pressure up just fine. Letting it start will get it up faster. The difference is, there is much less load on the bearings when the starter is turning it over, as opposed to combustion turning it over. I don't know if prefilling the filter would make a measurable difference. Not likely, IMO. H
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