Oil Change Techniques

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pedal to the floor before you start cranking (fuel injected ONLY !!)
shuts off injectors while cranking
wrote:


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"Harry Face" wrote

You're crazy, Harry.
(pssst.....Harry is anal about his oil changes...hee hee)
Ian
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Opposite end of the spectrum:
I change the filter every other change. I believe that changing the filter at every oil change is a waste of time & money.
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addition to all the oil that has not drained down into the pan. So, you start out with dirty oil already in the engine.
This is almost as bad as the toilet paper oil filters that people used back in the 1960's and 1970's. With those, they bought a special adapter and used a roll of toilet paper as the filtering medium - it didn't work well. You changed the "filter" every 3,000 miles and added a quart of clean oil. You could usually hear one of those cars coming long before it got to you because the lifters were so noisy.
I've changed oil in loads of things (heavy equipment, trucks, buses, cars, planes) and we always changed the filter with every oil change. It's not just a good idea, it's an economically sound practice (saves on costly repairs).
SUNOCO introduced graphite oil in the late '70's or early 80's - it flopped. One of the reasons was because the oil was already black when it came out of the can (the other one was that the graphite accumulated in the engine-bad idea). Add to that the psychological effect of seeing black oil in the engine al the time and you have a total loser.
But, it's your vehicle and if you want to save a few pennies now and spend major bucks later, then do it. After all, it's a free country (I'm assuming that you live in a free country and not a dictatorship like Cuba, etc.)
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addition to all the oil that has not drained down into the pan. So, you start out with dirty oil already in the engine.
This is almost as bad as the toilet paper oil filters that people used back in the 1960's and 1970's. With those, they bought a special adapter and used a roll of toilet paper as the filtering medium - it didn't work well. You changed the "filter" every 3,000 miles and added a quart of clean oil. You could usually hear one of those cars coming long before it got to you because the lifters were so noisy.
I've changed oil in loads of things (heavy equipment, trucks, buses, cars, planes) and we always changed the filter with every oil change. It's not just a good idea, it's an economically sound practice (saves on costly repairs).
SUNOCO introduced graphite oil in the late '70's or early 80's - it flopped. One of the reasons was because the oil was already black when it came out of the can (the other one was that the graphite accumulated in the engine-bad idea). Add to that the psychological effect of seeing black oil in the engine al the time and you have a total loser.
But, it's your vehicle and if you want to save a few pennies now and spend major bucks later, then do it. After all, it's a free country (I'm assuming that you live in a free country and not a dictatorship like Cuba, etc.)
comon now, in Cuba they are probably forced to use a new oil filter every time, they have TONS of cars from the 50's over there still in working condition :)
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snipped-for-privacy@mindspring.com says...

That and the bypass on the filter must be opening up at times making the filter totally worthless.
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I used to change oil for a living ..
If you can do it without making a mess (most of the GM 3.1/2.8 series it's messy) filling the filter even 1/2 full before installing it, and making sure to wipe off the filter mounting plate, and putting a fresh coat on oil on the filter seal is an excellent way to change your oil. That way, the filter is already primed, and you have fresh oil being pushed about a split second before you would normally (without oil in the filter). I've done it both ways. Just remember, your engine without oil is simply a block to recycle at the scrap yard.
When I change my oil, I jack up the front of the car, and drop the oil pan plug. I make sure the oil is draining into my drain pan, and not all over my driveway, and let it drip for a bit (with the filler cap off). Then I pour about 1/2 a quart into the engine to help retrieve any old oil sitting in the bottom of the oil pan.. and then I let it continue to drain for about 30 minutes. I then change the filter (dry filter, since it makes a damn mess on my car) plug the oil pan, filler her up, and start her up .. check for leaks .. and I'm done. (Now before you call me crazy, my Olds has over 220,000 miles, and my Pontiac has 158,000 miles on it).
That's how I do it :) When I used to change oil for a living, I would use an exacuation system to remove the old oil from the oil pans of car .. it worked like a charm.

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Then I pour about 1/2 a quart into the engine to help retrieve any old oil sitting in the bottom of the oil pan.........
------ Does that oil actually go all the way thru the engine down into and thru the oil pan ?? Wow !
If that does go all the way thru, why not use some kind of " cleaner " to put in the top so it goes thru, and cleans on the way down ??
Also, I like the idea of putting some oil in the filter right b4 installing...I have put some around the rubber filter ring-gasket each time....countless times on a 87 Nissan Pick-up I had with over 240,000 on it before someone else bought for a few hunred, to fix up....
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Umm yeah, the oil goes straight down into the oil pan. I've got to many miles to put a cleaner in my engine. I want to keep all that sludge that is holding my engine together :)

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